Old ZW transformer: what cleaning needed before first plug-in

First and foremost, get that cord changed. Not worth taking a chance. Once the cord is replaced, as long as the rollers inside on the arms are intact you can plug it in and try it out.

Don't spray it with anything.

As Joe said Change the cord right away.. No need to spray the inside with anything.. Those postwar ZWs are pretty much bomb proof.. I lost track of how many I have. If I see one for a good price I grab it..

          Scott

IMHO, The transformer should be checked over.

In addition to replacing the splice power cord:

check the rollers, do they turn freely as the controls are moved back and forth. How much material is left? Worn rollers should be replaced before their holders hit the windings.

Check the whistle controls - do they go back and forth smoothly, and snap back to the center?

check the binding posts - often one or more becomes detached from the common bar (u terminals) - the A through D terminals much less frequently

Check for A.C. leakage.  -

Jeff, C.W. is a pro's pro on all things postwar.

As an additional source, check-out this link on ZW service and maintenance.

Also, Olsen's Library is another good resource for LIONEL documentation on the ZW.

Good luck.

You might also want to check out these two videos by OGR Backshop Foreman Jim Barrett.

BACKSHOP VOLUME 1:

• Check out a postwar Lionel ZW transformer
• MU your conventional Lionel diesels
• Stop derailments caused by sliding shoes on operating cars
• Make your operating cars work more reliably
• Make postwar Lionel smoke units really smoke

BACKSHOP VOLUME 2:

• Lionel Postwar ZW Transformer maintenance
• Install uncoupling magnets anywhere
• Install a new DC motor with a flywheel
• Tune up Lionel air whistles and battery horns

Jim shows how to replace the line cord (VERY  important!), the rollers and how to install a new whistle diode. The videos (on DVD) are $9.95 each.

They will soon be available for download with OGR's new Video On Demand!

If you are not inclined to do the work yourself look around your area for a train shop that does repairs. I found one close to me that tests everything including the circuit breaker, rollers, terminal posts, whistle rectifiers, cord and operation and output. Have not had one yet that the cord was not replaced. The rest have had a mix of circuit breakers, diodes (in place of rectifier disk), rollers terminal posts etc. The rollers are the most common out of this group.

My costs run around 20 to 25 dollars depending on the needed parts. The circuit breaker is the most expensive. By doing this I know that the transformer is in top shape and ready to go. If I sell one I also get them serviced first. This way I do not get complaints from buyers and I know I have sold a solid transformer to them.

Dave

I went back and checked the things mentioned in the replies. Everything looked good to go. The cord looks great. I found that the splice was someone's idea of how to lengthen the cord without using an extension cord. I took of the added cord and installed a replacement plug from our nearby Ace Hardware store.

I was still a little nervous, but got out a power strip with a circuit breaker in it, and plugged in the transformer. Hey, no smoke, no fire, and a nice low "hum". Seemed to be purring like a kitten.

Now for the real test. I hooked it up to one of my loops of track, set an engine on the track, and it worked. Reverser and horn controls all worked fine. Same for the other side of the transformer. I guess I got lucky here, and free really turned out to be a good deal.

 Thanks for the tips on what to check out.

Jeff

One more thing that I don't think was mentioned: for safety's sake, confirm that the circuit breaker still functions.  Connect ONE of the A-D posts to a U post with a heavier gauge wire and turn up the associated control about 1/2 way.  It may take several seconds for the breaker to trip.  If it does not after 15 seconds, it should definitely be replaced.

There are many threads about supplementing a ZW's internal breaker with external ones that close much faster, if you are interested in further protection.

Testing the breaker by shorting a track variable to common and seeing how quickly it shuts off hasn't been done. Be ready on the power strip kill switch just in case.

Check those rollers roll, sticky ones will have flat spots after a while. Broken ones, the arm saws on the windings.  Recheck every once in a while.

(The accessory circuits are not protected by the breaker, ad if used)

Feel.for loose.binding posts.

An original looking power cord is available from many parts guys for around $5. A bit of a pain to install but if you know how to solder its not too bad a job. Those ZW's are built like a tank. You can weld with one of those things. You don't see construction like that anymore. 

I did not think to test the breaker, but I know for sure it works correctly. It has swiftly, tripped on several occasions, during major derailments. When my grandson is at the throttle, derailments due to excessive speed on 027 curves, happen quite often.

Jeff

I did not think to test the breaker, but I know for sure it works correctly. It has swiftly, tripped on several occasions, during major derailments. When my grandson is at the throttle, derailments due to excessive speed on 027 curves, happen quite often.

It is very odd that your ZW transformer breaker trips quickly. That is not a common characteristic of them.
Since a child is using the transformer, I strongly suggest that you add an external, manual reset circuit breaker to each power terminal that is in use. (Actually I use, and recommend them for everybody)

C W Burfle posted:

 

It is very odd that your ZW transformer breaker trips quickly. That is not a common characteristic of them.
Since a child is using the transformer, I strongly suggest that you add an external, manual reset circuit breaker to each power terminal that is in use. (Actually I use, and recommend them for everybody)

About how many seconds should it take to trip? I might have a different idea about what "quickly" means in this case, and, it may or may not be working properly. I sure do not want to take any chances.

jeff

About how many seconds should it take to trip? I might have a different idea about what "quickly" means in this case, and, it may or may not be working properly. I sure do not want to take any chances.

The postwar Lionel test sets had resistance grids to test transformers. According to one of the test bench manuals, a fully loaded ZW breaker should take between 11 and 40 seconds.
When I am doing one of those tests, it always seems like an eternity to me

I think many other folks will agree that external protection is a good idea. How about it?

If its mechanically sound, and electrically sound, its better to trip sooner.

But, bad points in a breaker can cause heat enough to trip them early too.

It could be on its way out, or last forever doing a great job?

Is the breaker inside rectangular? Any printing? Round? Center adjustment?

(The accessory circuits are not protected by the breaker, ad if used)

The ZW accessory circuits are protected. The breaker is in series with the common (U) terminals.

Circuits can accidentally be made between any two of the power terminals (A-D) that are not protected. I have seen transformers that were damaged by a short in one of these accidental circuits that was left on for an extended time.

Thanks,  I had misread that over and over in the past CW, but took the warning strong. Bridging those might be an issue too,  I see the whole picture now.

The external breakers are doing two protection jobs each. The normal,  all variable feeds,  and preventing to some degree, issues caused from any "internal winding bridges" that might develope externally.

I was thinking about in the constraints of something that is stacked different and had the acc. at more risk . Kw or Tw,  etc. I forget what offhand.

The ZW is four higher volt throttles. Not many folks would be bridging those,  lol.