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Looking for some comments/suggestions on this layout.

On the-floor in basement over hardwood laminate flooring.  Fastrack. Approx. 17' x 15.5', but might have couple inches of flexibility. Have had the inner yin/yang loop on the right side already, along with partial siding, and the outer loop (running).  Missing a couple switches for yards, wye in center, reversing loop on left, yard/switches on angle, and outer loop 84" radius curves - currently using 72" with some short straights.   Right now, outer loop is Lionel Legacy 990/Cab2L (with TMCC/Trainmaster/Cab1 as backup).  Inner loop is MTH DCS TIU.  Power via 2 180W Lionel bricks.  I want to change it up a little.

Want to run fairly long trains.  Articulated steam, probably mainly on outer loop.  Diesels on inner loop.  No accessories right now.  Just trains.  I've enjoyed running multiple trains (2) on the inner loop simultaneously.  I'd also like to do some siding/switching.

Can't really deviate from the chamfered rectangle approach due to stairs coming down and outer basement walls.  Filled 1'x1' blue square is a post I need to work around.  4'x6' transparent rectangle is my workbench.  I have some flexibility here, but not much.

I've thought about joining the outer with the inner, but not quite sure what that does to my power scheme.  I assume I need to insulate/isolate inner/outer, but what happens when trains cross the DMZ between outer "Lionel" and inner "MTH"?  I know I can control the Lionel with my MTH DCS remote, but can't do the reverse with Lionel remote.  If I'm running an o72 articulated around the outside, there is only so far I can go on the inside, as it drops to o60 i the very  center of the left reversing loop.   But I think if I make a double crossover (5.4" c-c version) with 4 o72 switches on the far right, I can get outer loop trains to reverse, too.

I'm open to suggestions.  Planning on looking for track (even used, but good condition) and switches at York.

Thanks, Dave

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DCS and Legacy will work just fine together on the same tracks at the same time. An easy way to connect both loops would be to isolate the two loops center rails (which also isolates the two PH-180 power sources). Leave the outside rails connected to each other on both loops, for the Legacy signal. Power the two loops through the TIU using fixed 1 & fixed 2, red to center rail and black to outside rail. Connect your Legacy signal wire to the black outputs (common) of your TIU and you should be able to run Legacy or DCS engines on either loop. 

I have 2 loops of Atlas track on my layout that are setup just like this with PH-180's for power and it works just fine here. I have DCS and Legacy only, no Cab1/Base1. There is no problem here with trains going between loops (and power sources).

Last edited by rtr12
Pine Creek Railroad posted:

Dave,

    Try to get your hands on as much of the 1st and 2nd generation FasTrack as you can, good luck to ya buddy and have fun!

PCRR/Dave

Why 1st and 2nd generation?  If I'm buying brand new Fastrack from current inventory would I be getting an inferior product to the original?

MOPAC01,

   The latest FasTrack quality is not quite what the older FasTrack happens to be, the older FasTrack has no problems with warping slightly or staying together when not screwed down, the connecting pins work better and do not bend as easily either.  However there are ways to over come all these small problems.  I still recommend FasTrack highly, but want you to understand the newer FasTrack is not quite the super high quality of the original 1st  2 generations.   This is why I always recommend to people purchasing FasTrack for the 1st time, to attend some Train Shows, in their area, and see if they can purchase some of the 1st or 2nd generation FasTrack.  The 1st generation is super easy to identify, it has a Black mid rail, after you find a piece of this track, take it with you and match it with what ever else you want to purchase.  You will be able to see the difference in the FasTrack, when you have both in your hands.    Purchase as much of the 1st 2 generation FT as you can, it is still the very best FasTrack Lionel ever made.   If you have to settle for the newest FasTrack come back on the OGR forum, and we will give you all the different techniques we have developed to over come these small problems.  

PCRR/Dave

Hi Vadarthdad,

No problem with the DCS and Legacy signals commingling. You'll just need to work in 1 3/8" tracks with the wires pulled to create blocks for the DCS.

Track plan comments:

It doesn't seem that it will actually fit in the 15'8" x 17. I add added a cross over area and left out the loopy to the pole/pillar. Used more O72 switches than wyes.

Which software are you using? You left out (maybe) the 1 3/8" extensions for the switches and the wyes on the turnout ends. It's a half-roadbed piece. there is a 1 3/8" no-roadbed piece between the cross over switches.

So, here's the plan with 1 3/8" tracks marked for block isolation. Run the power drops to center in between. Common is common everywhere. Only the center rail is isolated.

There's a couple of oddball sections that used a lot of small tracks. You can cut 10" pieces to custom sizes to replace them.

 

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Thanks for the options.  I used SCARM for essentially the first time.  Didn't spend the time to get everything matched perfectly, just close enough for conceptual questions.  I assumed the switches/wyes from the pull-down menu came with all the right pieces.

I like the cross-over from outside to inside - I actually added that on the right vs. where you have it on the left.  May work best where you have it.  I liked my 060 "loopy by the pole", as i thought this gave me more space to park a train while 2 others were running.  But I didn't calculate how long a train I'd be able to park there and if it looked right.

If I don't go with the "loopy" by the pole, I'd like more sidings somewhere...

 

 

VADarthDad posted:

Thanks for the options.  I used SCARM for essentially the first time.  Didn't spend the time to get everything matched perfectly, just close enough for conceptual questions.  I assumed the switches/wyes from the pull-down menu came with all the right pieces.

I like the cross-over from outside to inside - I actually added that on the right vs. where you have it on the left.  May work best where you have it.  I liked my 060 "loopy by the pole", as i thought this gave me more space to park a train while 2 others were running.  But I didn't calculate how long a train I'd be able to park there and if it looked right.

If I don't go with the "loopy" by the pole, I'd like more sidings somewhere...

 

 

Ok, I did not Know the location of the pole. Are you working with current inventory? I don't want to go crazy with the switches and wyes.

Here's another version attached-right-click>select "save target as" and land it. Then open. I hope it misses the pole.

By the way, what did you use for fasteners for you shelf layout? I posted your photos in another thread. they are all scaredy cats and what big ugly brackets.

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I'm planning on buying some more track at York. 

I used some drywall screws and pnuematic nails to secure the baseboard to the horizontal shelf bracket.  Then I used pnuematic nails to secure the assembly to the wall studs. I might have even used a drywall screw or two in a couple studs just in case. Been up for years without issue. And no brackets!   And looks like moulding!

Thanks for shelf info. I actually found a website to calculate the weight the shelf could hold and then found a web site on fastener specifications. I would probably use deck screws, but obviously, yours works. I don't why the other forum members on the just couldn't accept the fact that it won't fall off of the wall. I guess they just like a lot of ugly brackets.

Oh yeah, your new layout. I hope you like the loopy replacement. I tried some ladder type yards. I didn't like the look. The other option that would look good with this plan is a pass through yard. It takes 6 wye switches and at least 10' in length. I wasn't sure if you were into buying that many for this layout. I am having trouble fitting it in and be long enough to make it worthwhile.

Will the loopy clear the pole on the last version I put up?

Here's a Cutting FasTrack pdf and a FasTrack lengths pdf when you are measuring to fill spaces. I believe that I forgot to mark the 1 3/8" on the new loopy for another block for DCS signal. Just pull the wires at each switch turnout and it will be a block.

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