Opinion Sought: Separate Power for Switches

What type of switches, need brand and parts number, are you using? How do you plan to power the switches; track voltage or constant voltage?

You need to ask a more specific question; example, how do I wire a Gargraves switch for use with constant voltage from an MTH Z-4000? Or how do I wire a Realtrax switch for use with constant voltage from an MTH Z-4000?

You will probally get more detailed answers asking a question like that!

Lee F.

I see three advantages of wiring your switches externally and not using track power.

1) Wired conventional you can throw switches with the track power off.

2) Using Command Control, you are not throwing 20V at your switches.

3) By not using a fixed output from the Z4K accessory taps, you can better control the switches. We have switches that bounce when they get full track voltage.

Just my $0.02

Gilly 

Lee -  I am new to this, so wiring is not my forte.  If you think I should read something offline about model train switch wiring basics, please direct me to it.  I have no idea what 'constant voltage' is, so your response is another language to me.  Thanks anyhow.

Gilly - Thank you.  Good points for me to consider.

Track Facts:

1. I am using RealTrax from MTH. 
2. Curves are 0-31 on the inner loop. 
3. I have red/black wires running from the lockons to an MTH block and then 1 wire to the Z-4000 transformer. Did this 2x - separate set up for outer loop (no switches on this one) and for inner loop ( 6 switches on this one)
4. Separte power for each loop, seprate blocks for each loop.  There are 2 separate tracks on the same table. 
5. I am only asking about the switches on the inner loop
6. I am open to suggestions on adding lock-ons to either loop becasue of the expectation of insufficient power/mitigating surge problems, etc.
7. I am running conventional - all engines are Proto 1 or earlier.
8. I plan to use the lighted levers that MTH provided with the switches - so all will be hardwired.

The MTH DCS Factors

If I used this (I do not have one) - keep in mind I run Proto 1 or less, so I am not willing to run more than 1 train at a time per track - is there some benefit to using DCS for the scenario I have outlined in my original question about switches, power and wiring?  I presume the switches have to be hard-wired to an AIU in the DCS structure?  Or would I just go with track power, do switches with the remote, and not need the manual levers that MTH provides?

Thank you!!

Yes, there are advantages to wiring to a seperate accessory transformer as Gilly pointed out.  I see 6 switches on your layout.  It should be doable.  A good rule of thumb I've found is power feeds to the track every 6' or so.  You are probably good with 2 feeds per loop, depending on your track and it's conductivity, but if you are slowing down in curves, you may want a few more.  Build it.  Good Luck 

I agree with William on your power feeds.

Power to the switches: Definitely use aux power, I don't care those switches you use, tho I expect Realtrax switches to match the track.

I am running Realtrax and the switches do not work well at conventional track voltages. They work best at 12 to 14 VAC. The AUX out of a Z1000 brick or Z4000 works well. I learned this the hard way on my early layouts.

also, Warning: Keep the track on each end of the switch dead level with the switch, if not you will have derailment issues. Bigger, longer engines are not always the worst. My 2-6-0 is worst on my track, I believe the lead wheels lack down pressure.

My Big Boy just mashes it's way through no problem 

(Unless the cow catcher shorts on the center rail, then the breaker pops instantly)

About DCS, if you do not plan on getting a Newer engine, It's a lot of money for the results you will get.

DCS has no significant benefit to a PS1 engine except allowing you to control it with a hand held remote.

You could however, add an AIU to also control your switches with the remote.

This adds the option of ROUTES, which switch multiple switches at once to set up a route for the train. I use this to select which siding in the yard is active.

If you think you will EVER go to DCS, get Barry's book and read it, then install the DCS.