Opinions On Uncoupling Track

I run Realtrax and have one uncoupling track so far, the first of many planned.

 

I have been working to upgrade or acquire PS2 or PS3 with electro couplers to better switch the knuckles. Kadee is my preference but until everything is running Kadee, I still rely on the uncouplers.

I use the uncoupling tracks (also a fastrack user). I think they are great. I have recently hooked them up to my SC2 to allow me to uncouple from my legacy remote. This is even better as it is an affordable way to add and electro coupler experience to your rolling stock. Even in conventional, I used my uncoupling track all the time. I recommend.

Hamlet,

 

I have several uncouplers on my layout.  My track plan includes the couplers because I knew I'd have long consists that I'd want to break in the middle where electro couplers aren't available.  There are 5 storage sidings on the upper level and 8 on the lower, each with an uncoupler right after the turnout.  All my track, turnouts and uncouplers are Atlas O.  The more important question is if you use command and control and which one?  I use DCS and love it for everything...except controlling my uncouplers.  I see jrmertz uses DCC with his Legacy and he's right, it's great to control your sidings with the remote.  The problem I've had seems to be related to a TIU software issue where the Accessory Port activates and stays on and fries the uncoupler.  I've had to replace 4 uncouplers so I've set up a different circuit that only powers the uncoupler ports temporarily so they don't get fried anymore.  If you use the basic push button switches to activate your uncouplers, you won't have to worry about this problem but figured you'd want to know if you have an older TIU.

 

Enjoy!

 

Bob

Hamlet:

I have uncoupling track in my freight yard. Since I don't have them programmed into my Cab unit I the push button switches. One of the issues I had was that the switches were on one side of the layout and the track at the other so it was very difficult to line up cars for uncoupling. What I ended up doing was to move the switches to the edge of the layout where the uncoupling track is and will hide them under a building. Now I am about 2 feet away from the track and can see everything. I am also going to do this for turnouts in the freight yard.

Joe

I appreciate to responces.  I thought the topic was dead a few days ago.  I have recently installed one uncoupling track to my holding yard.  One of the first times I tried it out, it stuck in the on position and almost fried my track and the unit.  A little time with the exacto knife and some WD40 and all the problems were solved.  I like what they add to the layout.  I use fastrack and have no idea how to connect them so they can be used by the Legacy remote.  Anyway, I will be installing a 2nd one in the same yard in a few days.  Thanks for all your help.

 

Chuck

You may want to power them with an alternate power source if you operating them with the 18v going through the track. I have a few of these on my  layout but have them wired separately to an extra cw-80 I had gotten in a starter set years ago.I wired to the throttle side and adjusted the voltage as necessary for the best uncoupling by testing it wth a piece of rolling stock. The instruction manual recommends wiring to a seperate power source in a command environment as these are designed to operate at 10-12v. I'm not sure if the high voltage contributed to the button sticking problem but lower voltage would help minmize the "frying" if another incident occured.

Thanks for the advice.  I have another power source I use for accessories, I may try that.  The button sticking was purely a problem confined to the plastic housing.  The plastic around the button was binding it to stay in the on position, I cut away some of the plastic and saturated the rest in WD40 and my problem is gone. A little "plastic surgery" helps more than one's looks.  No help for me though-lol.

 

Chuck