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All,

I have a Korber roundhouse I am looking to paint the brick on.  I am looking for suggestions of paints that would produce a nice brick color without being too red or too rust brown.  Also looking for something in a rattle can, ie Krylon, Rust Oleum, Valspar, .... that would be good.  I do know this limits the color opportunities.

Thanks,

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Greg,

Whichever color you choose, the model will be enhanced by the wash.    Roundhouses were not the cleanest buildings on railroad property.  Grime and grit was everywhere.  A few items alongside the building would be appropriate, at least one well used pickup truck, maybe new or well used welding tanks, two and four wheel carts, etc.  While the base color is important, please remember everything gets at least one tone darker when moved from your work table to the layout. 

John in Lansing, ILL

Last edited by rattler21

Greg, why limit yourself to rattle cans? You can get as good or better results with a brush, and your color selection is unlimited. If you want to get fancy, get yourself a cheap single action air brush. When I say cheap, I'm talking under $10 on eBay, Of course you'll need a compressor to go that route, but once you have one, you're set for life.

OGR buildings, with a brick wash.  A house paint, latex grey, diluted to the consistency of milk.   It may take a couple of application to get the effect you want.  The red is the OGR plastic, tends to dull with wash applied. 

Detail paint was done with a good brush, panels flat on the work bench, before assembly.  Window detail is available from OGR.  

Last edited by Mike CT

I've had nice results by using more than 1 color for the bricks on the same structure as each brick tends to be multi shaded

I dust them with rattle cans with several shades of primer ,brown tones, black grey tones, orangish brown

You're looking for a varied uniformity in the finished wall sections

They all tie in when you do the mortar washes and weathering, personally I avoid pure white mortar washes

as they are rare, khaki/ tan colors were more common.

 

Everyone, thank you for the great suggestions and please keep them coming.  Elliot, I do have a Paasche single action which I use a lot as well and that is a quite viable option.  Was looking for a quick rattle can and there are some great options here.  I hope some others get some good ideas from all of your folks suggestions as well.  The comments on the mortar and grime are excellent suggestions.  Plan on doing the mortar as well.  Mike love your Mortar lines you got with the diluted gray.

Do all of you spray at the end with a matte clearcoat to protect the finish at the end?

 

Thanks again,

 

Steam Loco Greg posted:

Everyone, thank you for the great suggestions and please keep them coming.  Elliot, I do have a Paasche single action which I use a lot as well and that is a quite viable option.  Was looking for a quick rattle can and there are some great options here.  I hope some others get some good ideas from all of your folks suggestions as well.  The comments on the mortar and grime are excellent suggestions.  Plan on doing the mortar as well.  Mike love your Mortar lines you got with the diluted gray.

Do all of you spray at the end with a matte clearcoat to protect the finish at the end?

 

Thanks again,

 

Unless its painted brick, it should be a dead flat. I use dilute "dust". Spray a coat and let it dry. Add more coats to suit. Its much flatter than any of the matte finishes. I used to use both Poly Scale and Floquil but Tru Color Dust will work here.

Korber Roundhouse base is a three layer build-up.  Floor and track completed before side panels were installed. 

3/16" luan board was used to level the floor to near top of rail.   Dry wall compound and sanding smooths the floor.  Another rattle can spray, was used for the aged/slight yellow concrete look. 

  Hitting some bricks with a dull satin will darken them and change sheen, which can also vary.

Modern bricks may even be sealed with a gloss.

New to washes? Try cheap water based craft acrylic from companies like Apple Barrel (wallymart, etc)  If you don't like it, water will remove it. Soap and water if it cures a day or two, usually with a scrub brush after that..  Getting it all off seldom matters with washes anyhow. Also great to practice dry brushing with it. Only 80 cent for a 2 once bottle. Lots of color variations and easy to blend. I stagger my colors giving a day or two  between coats, so if I do wash a layer off, the one under it remains solid. The only drawback is it is thick and has more texture when dry compared to smooth lacquer or enamel. It also is softer by far once cured. Clearcoats can help protect it.

Use black, brown, red, green, and grey for rain grime. Basically a few pigments of everything with a heavier base in black or brown is what you see outside. Colors in nature are seldom pure anything.

 

rattler21 posted:

Elliot,  Is it possible to use compressed air from a tank designed for propane?  When the pressure gets low, refill it at a gas station, truck stop, auto repair facility or tire store.  John in Lansing, ILL

I'm not sure about a propane tank. I'm guessing you're referring to the standard 20 pounder that you might use for a grill. You'll have a little trouble getting an adapter for those threads to hook up to air. At one time, Badger had a tire adapter, so you could take an old tire and use the air from that. Then go to the gas station for refills. They may still make it.

If you want different colors of individual bricks or stones, the easiest way is to darken some of them with various colors of marker pens. A set that includes several shades of brown for touching up scratches in wood are good. Do it after a primer coat but before a light finish coat of spray paint. Quick, easy, and produces a nice subtle variation.

I have had good results using Krylon Cover MAXX -  Red Oxide Primer...  Very flat, almost like a chalk paint finish.  On all recent buildings I go back with the track painting markers weathering colors and use rust and rail tie brown and hit about 20 % of the bricks... On larger buildings where that would take too much time, I have just used some craft paint colors, some in the rusty orange family and one that's darker and just randomly darkened bricks by stamping the brush to create blotches....  Then seal it with flat clear coat before applying mortar.  My preferred mortar method now is the lightweight fast drying spackling.... I make up two batches one tinted darker than the other  with india ink... some photos of results below

DSCN3772DSCN3775DSCN3773DSC02340DSCN4060 [2)DSCN4065 [2)

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