Painting an Altoona Model Works smokestack

If the image color is accurate, that looks much closer to a brighter red like Cardinal Red than what I'd expect for Colonial Red, which reminds me of a dark red/brown primer. Companies could have used a lighter red brick deliberately or that is the color brick which their local ingredients produced. Remember it is whatever you like! Would going over it with a black wash make it appear darker?

BobbyD posted:

If the image color is accurate, that looks much closer to a brighter red like Cardinal Red than what I'd expect for Colonial Red, which reminds me of a dark red/brown primer. Companies could have used a lighter red brick deliberately or that is the color brick which their local ingredients produced. Remember it is whatever you like! Would going over it with a black wash make it appear darker?

 

I definitely don't like this and the can says colonial red # ...my mistake..I ran dry with the colonial red so I grabbed a can of Krylon with a sort of red top but the label says burgundy. I don't think multiple black washes would help. When it drys I'll shoot primer and start gain maybe with a heavy adobe wash.

I used a deep red from Liquitex on my Altoona smokestack.  The liquitex spray.   It is nice as it does not smell.   The nozzles do have a tendency to clog, however.  You have to remove the nozzles and clean right away after spraying.  I think it was cadmium red, dark hue.

Here is a pic - Cadmium Red Hue Medium 2 Liquitex Spray.   Mortar is tinted gesso.  I think I used a raw umber wash.  I used a pan pastels for the rest of the weathering.

jcovert posted:

Here is a pic - Cadmium Red Hue Medium 2 Liquitex Spray.   Mortar is tinted gesso.  I think I used a raw umber wash.  I used a pan pastels for the rest of the weathering.

Looks good Jeff. I've tried using gesso for mortar but it doesn't work for me. Maybe I put it on too thick. I like the initials. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get dry transfers locally.

joe

Hi Joe,

The lettering was from a stencil that the owner of Altoona model works will cut for you.  You just need to shoot him an email of what you would like.  

I use full strength gesso, I think the key is to gently wipe off the excess, quickly, with a damp smooth cloth, like a cotton hankee.  I rinse the hankee frequently in warm water, then wring it out

I forgot to mention, I give the walls a very diluted coat of gloss medium before the gesso.  It keeps the gesso from sticking too much to the face of the brick.   After the gesso, I hit it with matte artists fixative to dull it back down

mine got modified a bit

Joe you can weather that and it will change the color without priming and repainting. If you add all the extra paint, you're gonna lose some of the brick/mortar detail. I know, I'm one to talk because I covered mine in spackle and sanded it down. I would just weather it with some black, brown, and light greys. It will be just fine.

Joe:

You could first try applying Testors Dullcote to take the shine off. It will also darken the color a tad. If you still don't like the color then lightly overspray with satin dark brown and just a little flat black near the top (as if you were weathering) then hit it again with Dullcote.

Joe

jcovert posted:

Here is a pic - Cadmium Red Hue Medium 2 Liquitex Spray.   Mortar is tinted gesso.  I think I used a raw umber wash.  I used a pan pastels for the rest of the weathering.

JC,

Looks fantastic!  I don't believe I have ever heard of tinted gesso.  Thanks.

Thanks-  

Tinted gesso - just took a bit of gesso, and mixed it with gray or tan acrylic paint (I think I used gray on the smokestack).

Diluted gloss medium before the gesso, to let the gesso wipe easily off of the brick faces.

Sprayed with matte artist's fixative after the gesso is dry.