Painting diecast shell

When I strip a Postwar shell, I use oven cleaner. Hit it 2 or 3 times, scrub and wash between coats. Then when I'm satisfied, I use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to polish it. Before painting, I use a self etching primer. Then paint. Process takes a couple of days.

Aircraft stripper is the fastest and easiest method for stripping diecast...although it’s near impossible to find anymore....the formula has changed, and I haven’t tried it since ......I’ve had good luck soaking both Lionel and MTH black painted parts in lacquer thinner....no real need to go nuts with primers when painting clean, abated diecast....I’m a firm believer in not putting too many coats of anything on and obscuring details....especially when using rattle can finishes.....after stripping, I wash the body/parts in warm soapy water using fine scotchbrite to abate the metal.....rinse, dry, wipe with alcohol, and shoot color....no failures in 35 years............Pat

For stripping:

If you are in a hurry, boil in a pot of water  mixed with a lot of laundry detergent. Old School, but works amazingly.

If you are not in a hurry, soak in one of the "Purple Power"-type degreasers (buy by gallon at Walmart). Cheap, gentle and effective. It can take any time from minutes to weeks depending on the paint--usually hours. Safe for almost all plastics, as well. This has never failed me.

I've used both the boiling method and purple cleaner methods. Boiling is pretty fast ( about an hour) while purple takes overnight or longer.

Three postwar diecast shells ready for unmasking and cab numbers reapplied. My goto is the Purple Power method, like already said, not fast, but cheap and very thorough. Sometimes after a dish detergent rinse after Purple Power, I'll soak in white vinegar for an hour to get rid of any oxidation.