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71F821B7-D7B9-4221-B73A-AB5F8D8BEFF8060A086B-4626-4E43-A2AA-CA9AD205B2F7F40AECD6-98CF-43B1-9CBC-B6FA475026B7  Please check the photo I've attached. I have an MTH passenger car that I put this boost buck board in (per your good advice) and tested it with my trusty 1035 transformer. I measured 12.5vac from the transformer before I connected the alligator clips to the power leads. (the black leads connect to the truck) the power from the truck goes to the bulb which I routed to my bridge rectifier.... then the output of course, goes to about a food of LED lighting strip. All was good until....the circuit and LED's began to get red hot. I shut the transformer immediately.  Do I need a properly placed dropping resistor??? As usual, your help is greatly appreciated....

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Truthfully, unless it was WAY above the rated voltage of the LED's, I can't imagine them getting really hot.  Obviously, I'm not there, so I can't know for sure exactly what happened.

I can say, I can put one of these regulators on the bench, set it to 11-12 VDC, and connect it to an LED strip, and I don't get any excessive heat or smoke.

Here's the module set to 12VDC out and the first shot is with 5VDC in, the second is with 20VDC input.  The output remains at 12VDC, and nothing gets hot.

Obviously, the pictures look the same as the only thing that changed was the voltage and current coming into the power module, the output remained constant.

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The buck/boost board will output a constant voltage for a wide range of voltages, both below and above the output voltage.  It's primarily good for conventional running where your track voltage can be well below the operating voltages of the LED strips.  If you run command, there is no good reason for using the buck/boost for passenger car lighting.

Thank you as I am running mostly in command.   Just had not seen those and have upgraded quite a few cars and now starting on some Lionel and K Line bi levels which use more lighting and was wondering.

Been using your(JW&A) regulators recently in the Lionel 18” aluminum and that regulator footprint fits without having to modify the interior finishes and can be easily tucked away out of view.

Thanks again

For command operation, which I'm pretty much exclusively dedicated to, a simple buck regulator works fine, the input voltage is always above the required output voltage.  When I designed my regulators, I was specifically targeting command operation, and I went with a constant current design because it's much easier to achieve fine intensity control for the LED's.  It also allows me to use different voltage strips without changing anything, if you run conventional, you can use the 5V strips without changing anything in the regulator.

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