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The only time you would have an issue is using it with a modern transformer.

 

The only way to do it if using a polarized plug, is to plug in the modern transformer, connect the new power cord to the PW ZW.  Check the phase.  If it's correct you are done.  If not swap the leads from the line cord and check again.

 

I'd take Dale's advice and use a non polarized plug.

Last edited by MartyE

If you are looking to improve the safety of a post war transformer, use them on a circuit with GFI protection. On a modern transformer, every exposed metal part, terminals excepted, would have to be connected to the third U ground safety wire.  This would prevent any of these parts from accidentally becoming energized. If you look closely at a ZW, this would be a very difficult retrofit. The alternative is GFI protection.  If a exposed metal part becomes energized and you touch it, and you are grounded, the power will be shut off. 

Helpful postwar ZW cord replacement information:

Two wire 16 gauge "lamp cord" is made with one ribbed wire insulation and one smooth wire insulation.  The ZW cords were also made with a ribbed cord.  The ribbed wire is attached to the bottom hole of the ZW 120V contact and the wide blade of the polarized 2 wire plug.  If you use a replacement 2 wire polarized plug phasing is easy.

Susan was not saying that a ZW was made with a polarized plug, she was saying that Lionel installed cords on ZWs that indicate polarity, so cords with polarized plugs could be installed and produce consistent results.  I had not noticed that the cords were coded, but now I will watch for it.  On zip cord one side should have fine ribs extruded into it and the other side should be smooth. The ribbed side is considered "white" and should plug into neutral. The smooth side is considered to be "black" and should be the hot side. 

Years ago , when phasing two or more Lionel postwar transformers, Lionel recommended the following:  attach a wire to the ground post of each transformer,  set the control voltage at about 8 to 10 volts on each transformer, and then touch the wires together momentarily.  If there was a spark, one of the transformer plugs needed to be reversed in the socket.  Then mark that plug accordingly.  That is how correct polarity was found.  It's a pretty easy process.

The appropriate phasing for Lionel transfomers:

A positive-going voltage on the primary (neutral as reference) will produce a negative-going voltage on the secondary (U or track common/outer rail as reference).

 

This can be easily checked with an AC voltmeter, but since it involves up to 140 volts, I will not describe the procedure here.

 

This seems to me to be bass ackwards compared to + in = + out, but I think Lionel got trapped into this standard when they delivered their first products with polarized plugs, not thinking to check absolute polarity.

 

The absolute polarity first raised its ugly head when the early 180W bricks were of backwards polarity compared to the 135W bricks, requiring an adapter on the output to reverse the polarity.

Originally Posted by Dale Manquen:

Jason, there are two different versions of the CW-80.  The original version has the two red terminals jumpered together, and the newer, revised version has the black terminals jumpered together.  Which do you have?

I think the newer version, it has a G in the buildcode on the bottom.  The 1032 is from about 1948...

Thanks

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