pink foam sculptamold and plaster cloth

Joe, maybe you could do the crumbled newspaper bit....rip up small strips of newsprint and tape it in place with masking tape or similar.  You could then lay the plaster cloth over that, or you could probably get away with applying the Sculptamold directly over the paper, if it's mixed thick enough.

If you didn't want to go that route, a quicker solution might be to get some modeling clay and lay it down over the foamboard in the contours that you want and then try putting down the Sculptamold...again, if it's mixed fairly thick.

Joe

Can you just beat (cut out) the mountains to the shape you like, use regular dry wall paste in any seams, pant and landscape?.

I wish you were closer to East TN I would try and show you in 30 minutes or less what I mean. I can't explain it very easily.

Here is a few pictures. If you want more feel free to e mail me. I copied a lot of members trying to figure out how to do what you are doing. A very helpful group.

I have a long way to go to finish what I want on my layout  ,but it was fun for two winters to come out here and beat the heck out of 2" pink foam with a cats paw and grinding it as well. More fun than you might think.

Good Luck.

Larry

Joe,

    I found that I had better luck if I roughed up the foam. Sometimes just scratching with a screwdriver or using a sureform shaper was enough. I did mostly vertical walls and put rock plaster castings on it without problems. I tried drywall mesh tape, but it doesn't stick too well by itself.

Had to switch to my phone to find pictures. 

That's some really nice rock work Larry. I don't have the patience required to do that. The back side of this is flat carved foam rock. The look I'm going for is terraced and will be completely covered with foliage. The problem I'm having is getting the sculptamold on thin. This is supposed to be easily removable for access but like me everyday it seems to gain a couple of more pounds as i have to heap on the sculptamold to get it to stick. I did slightly rough up the right side with a sure-form rasp and some 80 grit so maybe that will help

joe

Could you paint the foam first and then cover with the Sculpamold?  It might give the surface more texture. 

I wish you were closer to East TN I would try and show you in 30 minutes or less what I mean. I can't explain it very easily.

Larry I'll be in Cookeville TN in October for a 101st Airborne Vietnam reunion. You anywhere close to there?

Perhaps if you used a can of spray primer. That stuff sticks to everything,

Clarence Siman posted:

Perhaps if you used a can of spray primer. That stuff sticks to everything,

If you use anything that is not water based, it will melt the foam. 

Kunde posted:

Clarence Siman posted:

Perhaps if you used a can of spray primer. That stuff sticks to everything,

If you use anything that is not water based, it will melt the foam. 

...which may not be a bad thing if your goal is to roughen up the surface.  Just don't overdo it.

Some of the styrofoam sheets have a plastic barrier that you can peel off.  That will help with the sliding issue.

Joe

Good advice above about cheap water base coat of paint. After that any paint sticks good. If you do prime it I would suggest not to prime it with anything but water base. And please don't forget to remove that plastic sheet if it's on there.

It would be nice to have a visitor and you are welcome anytime, but according to map quest it's about 200 plus miles to Erwin TN from Cookeville TN.

My e-mail is in profile if you think you will get in the area send me an  e mail and we can exchange phone numbers.

Larry

I had good luck using wall joint compound or spackling compound.  Try that.

George

Joe,

Plaster cloth will stick to foam.

Dave

David Minarik posted:

Joe,

Plaster cloth will stick to foam.

Dave

 

Thanks Dave

joe

It's been over a year since I started this for those of you who think you aren't making any progress. Set the hill in place today.

The steps I follow are:

1. Stack and glue the foam layers (2" Extruded Polystyrene, which, as I understand it, is not available in all areas of the country)

2. Carve to rough shape of desired terrain

3. Overlay with plaster cloth (usually at least a couple of layers) and refine shape to desired form of the landscape feature

4. Use Sculptamold (which I really enjoy working with) for final terrain features and some rock faces. I also use Hydrocal, Plaster of Paris, or joint compound for rock faces created (mostly) with Woodland Scenics latex molds.

Plaster cloth is pricey...

Paper towels (the cheaper the better i.e., commercial grade c-fold) dipped in a soupy plaster mix works very well, although it can be a bit sloppy.