Plans for Atlas O and table design.

You might start with SCARM, a free design software package. The site has plans you can review for ideas.

 Thanks Dave. Sorry, I forgot to mention I don't have a PC. I use a Mac. 

I think Dave also meant that there are a bunch of sample plans to look at on the SCARM site. Samples Here He is a lot more familiar with the SCARM site than I am, but I think I am in the right spot here for the sample plans.

You don't need SCARM to look at these, they would just be for ideas. If you find one you like you could convert it to something in RailModeler that you could use. The plans in other scales can always be scaled up or down to O gauge.

check here:

http://www.thortrains.net/index.html

Just google "model train layout plans", and you will get hundreds of plan images.  All sizes and all scales.  You should get good ideas from them.  You can modify the search parameters to be more specific.

Jan

Thanks RTR12!  Great plans!!

The Thor site above is great, I also like this one with tips about how switches should lay out:
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com/train/id36.html

This Pinterest board is where I snip pictures of layouts I like, it might give you some ideas and most of the images if clicked on will take you to some information about the layout.
   https://www.pinterest.com/rich...model-train-layouts/

 As for modeling software on Mac:  RailModeler Express is OK, but I wish the guy from SCARM would create a Mac version, I liked using that software a little better when I had Windoz.  I'd love to know how you like the PRO edition, I haven't stepped up yet to pay for it.

As for the benchwork (carpentry), a lot of guys seem to start out wondering where to begin and wondering if they've got the skills to build something good, if you're not sure or you want to get going quickly you could consider one of the forum sponsors who do this such as http://www.modelrailroadbenchwork.com  If you want to do it yourself just make it sturdy and put a "skirt" around it to hide the ugly!

Two pieces of advise which likely aren't worth two cents:
  -  Height:  Unless you have little ones I'd recommend building at a workbench height instead of tabletop height.  I have a tabletop (table height) layout which is nice for the kids, but I seem to enjoy working at the higher height.
  - Leverage the guys on this forum for your track design.  If you post images of the design onto a new "what do you think of this design" you'll likely get tons of "hey, try this too" kind of advice.  

Good luck and keep us posted...Rich Murnane

Dear UP SD70!

Remember, you asked for comments...be careful what you ask for!  :-)

Please receive this in the positive spirit that it’s intended to be.  YOU HAVE A GREAT BLANK SLATE!!!  I hope to provide you with much “food for thought” for your future layout:

Many more numerous times than I can recall, for the past too many years, people have requested assistance in planning a layout.  Time after time, track arrangements are immediately shown and discussed.  Track arrangement is NOT planning a layout.  Obviously it is an important part.

Far too many times, regardless of scale, model railroaders end up with a collection of railroad engines and rolling stock from all over the place that circle and circle a loop(s) of track.  In the end, what do they have?

There are three main types of layouts:  Toy train layouts, Display layouts and Operational layouts.

A toy train layout doesn’t follow scale considerations and its purpose is to enjoy many trains and accessories and has a rainbow of railroads, actual and imaginary, not adhering to prototypical (actual) railroad modeling.  These layouts are almost always loops of track going pretty much nowhere all of the time.  This would include “starter sets.”    

A display layout is to show trains.  This layout may be a hybrid of toy train and operational model railroad layout or some combination thereof.  These layouts often contain multiple circles of tracks, with the tracks having no logical route, and allow the trains to be run with minimal human intervention.  A club modular layout would be an example.

An operational layout is set-up in a prototypical manner whereby the trains go from one point to another where they may drop off or pick up rolling stock simulating the actions and operation of a real railroad.  Typically, a specific railroad (or two) is selected and an operational theme is selected and followed.  The track arrangement is patterned after real life as well; meaning no circles or loops of track.

Again, without intending to upset anyone’s sensitivities, far too many model railroaders end up with a hodge-podge miss-mesh collection of railroad and rolling stock from the beginning of time to the modern day.  Their layouts aren’t very good as it is an illogical collection of unrelated items and time periods placed together.

You cannot let someone else tell you how to “plan” your layout unless you provide them with a multitude of details.  How can you or anyone else start to track “plan” when you or they don’t know what your railroad is supposed to be, where it is, what it is doing, etc.?

If you actually want to build a great model of a railroad, not just circle without rhyme or reason, you must first decide what it is you want and what you want your layout to look like when it’s completed.

People that haphazardly throw track arrangements together, via trial and error, will be disappointed in the end as they keep changing the arrangement over and over again seeking the perfect track plan that they will never find.

If you want to create a model of a railroad you must first decide:  What railroad(s) am I modeling?  What is my railroad doing?  (Freight, Passengers, Both or Other?)  Where is my railroad located and what other (if any) railroads is my line connected to?  When:  period of time am I modeling?   How will I research and gather all of the information required to construct a successful model of a railroad?

ALL truly great model railroads contain three essential elements:  Plausibility, Purpose and Participation.  Plausibility—is the design of the layout is believable even if it is entirely made up (free-lanced).  Purpose, ALL railroads have a purpose.  Your model of a railroad should have a purpose, a reason for being, how does it earn money to continue operating?  Finally, Participation!  This is where the fun comes in!  What will you or others at your railroad be doing?  If everyone is standing there simply watching the trains circle the same track with the same consist never changing direction and  seemingly going nowhere the fun won’t last long.

You, and others, need something to do.  The more you have to do, the more interaction is offered, the more enjoyment you will experience!  It is fun, entertaining and enjoyable to become part of a railroad crew.

BEFORE any track arranging can commence, you need to know the who, what, where, when, why and how of your layout.  The track arrangement for a switching operation is different from a main-line run.  A mountain route is different from a run along a seashore or prairie. 

If you are striving to create a model of a railroad attempt to get your trains going somewhere, not just circling.  I understand that people have limited space.  I did for years on end.  If your space is limited, plan a nice switching layout or small branch-line scene, maybe a logging operation?  There are numerous possibilities.    

If your space is limited, and you feel you must circle, use temporary on the floor track and circle to your heart’s delight!  When spending money to construct a layout surface and add scenery plan something nice for yourself and others.  Some spectacular layouts were/are 8 feet long and 18 inches wide.  It doesn’t have to circle or loop!

Most importantly, plan a point to point scheme.  Get the trains going somewhere.  Add return loops/reversing loops at both “ends” of your line so that a train may travel to the next town and then be turned around and return.  Have a siding at or near the ends of your line. 

Give your line a purpose.  You (or others) control the train.  Stop at the sidings.  Drop off and pick-up.  This will provide you participation and engage you in the activity.  I encourage and challenge you to stop running circles and loops. 

This is the irony of model railroading: real trains go from point to point and include much straighter track than curves.  In the model world, the vast majority of trains circle or loop, and there are far more curves.

I do appreciate that there are instances such as modular clubs that this wouldn’t apply.  I’m merely trying to help and suggesting to others to attempt to create a better design for a layout that will provide them with years of enjoyment.  Get involved with your trains!  Give yourself a part in the operations of your layout.  Get others involved!

Have fun!  But seriously consider the challenges and fun of modeling a railroad! 

My two cents.   I hope that you are not sorry you asked for comments>  :-)  Check out videos of my layout THE GLACIER LINE on Youtube.  Here's one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojp7JCAK_OM

PS:  A full basement?  72 diameter curves at a bare-bone minimum.  If you plan to run full size O Scale, like the awesome 21 inch passenger cars...go 96 minimum diameter.  I wish that I would have!  The cars work on 72s but look kind of awkward.

You are welcome and I see others have provided more good plan links and advice. Lots of good help and knowledgeable folks around here. 

I agree with what John said above and would concur that deciding how your want to interact with the layout is the most important consideration up front.  I would also suggest spending time looking at other peoples layout to get inspiration, look at all kinds of layouts across scales to see what you like and to see what doesn't appeal to  you,  youtube is a great resource.  Another suggest would be to not be afraid to build in stages.  If you have a recent MTH catalog, they have a example of starting smaller, then adding additional sections at a later time.

Have fun!

We built the Glacier Line one section at a time.  The sections ranged from 10 to 20 feet long.  My wife, Connie, said prior to construction: "Don't put all the backdrops up.  It will be overwhelming!"  I listened and did exactly that: one section at a time.  Another advantage is practicing your layout building skills, including scenery, one piece at a time and believe me you will improve your technique and think of how to do it better the next time as you go.  Connie was pleased with her first backdrop painting upon completion.  About six months to a year later, Connie said: "Those mountains are too dark.  I will call those mountains the great chocolate mountains!"

Since that time, she has painted and re-painted, several pieces in several places.  Everyone loves her backdrops, except her.  We are our own worst critic. 

Ok wow.

I just want to have fun with this.  This is just one of 4 hobbies I have.  Not to mention I work for a living, and have a family, so I'm not taking it THAT serious. But something I'd like to get into more now that I have proper space. I could care less about passenger cars, or small town/city layouts.  I want it to be more "rail-yard" looking.  I'm not going to have little figurines of people frozen like their doing something.   I'd like to collect some diesel engines, and have them parked, while being able to switch out cars, and run 2-3 locomotives at a time.  

I only have 1 diesel loco right now, and about 6-7 cars.  I'd like to concentrate, but not limit to diesels.  Scenery is cool, but not the focus.  I don't want to "recreate" some railroad somewhere.  I don't want an "out and back" style railroad.  I would like the trains to be able to RUN without stopping them every 2 minutes.  I just want to have fun with it.  

MURNANE:  I couldn't agree more on the Scarm.  Atlas O has a program too, and it's only on Windows.  (lame).  Especially in a day and age where 70% of the smartphones out there are iPhones.  I totally agree on the table height.  I have toddlers, but the train is for ME, not them.. so I plan to have it around 3.5' off the ground.. which for me will be stomach height.  

JOHN C:  Thanks for all that.  You have an amazing, and impressive layout!  I agree, that trains go from point to point.  But they also take several hours, if not days to get there, while going 70+ mph.  That's literally impossible to recreate that in the "out and back"plan, if  Like I said, I want the trains to be able to RUN.  I want to be able to walk away from it for a minute if I need and not have to stop everything so the trains don't run off the table.  I agree the 72 curves are great, but not a necessity.  Thanks for all the tips, but you're obviously a professional train modeler, that wants to run everything as accurate  realistic as possible.  Which is awesome for you.. But it's too much for me.  I want to be able to decompress, and relax while doing this.  And I don't want to limit myself to a certain style, because it's not accurate to period, or scale.  If I see a cool steam engine I want to buy, I want to buy it and run it.. not say well, my layout is a current day layout with current day cars, so it wouldn't be correct to run a locomotive from the 40's.  I don't want to have rules on what can go where.  and I don't think it will look hodgepodge.  Your layout is fantastic.

I could care less about "time period" or this train doesn't belong with this car, or whatever.  I'm not, and don't care to be, a "historian" on trains, but would love to learn more about them.  If I want to run a "post war" locomotive, and then tomorrow run a 2016 diesel engine, the that's what I want to do.  I'm thinking that... well, thinking about it too much, takes away the fun of it.  I'm not trying to win the blue ribbon at a science fair.  

One of the great train modelers that really got me into this is Eric from ericstrains.com.  He has every size, shape, period, locomotive and car there is.  He's got an industrial look to his layout combined with a beautiful scenic route.  

If you like to sit back and watch, you could still accomplish an "out and back" appearance by arranging the track as a "dogbone" a.k.a, "waterwing" shape.  In a 12 x 12 area, I had something similar.  The beauty of this track arrangement in that space is that there is a walk-in center aisleway; and along with walking the perimeter access is easy.  Obviously, I'm not a loop guy, but of all the "loops" this arrangement provides the effect that the train is reversing.  Helps to break the monotony a little.

Also, with three rail track this is a breeze, you could arrange track so that this is a single line from one side of the board to the other and have a reversing loop on both ends.  That is a point to point arrangement as the train is reversing.  I love three rail track!  No polarity issues.

You know with that full basement instead of just picking out a square 12 x 12 hunk you could run the layout around the walls and leave the center free for everything else.

Rich Melvin, and others, really like that about my layout as there is a huge center portion of the basement that is wide-open for people and standing back to enjoy the run.  The other great thing about following the wall is all the storage underneath.

IF, you every decide to go this route, don't make the bench-work any deeper than 30 inches.  24 is much, much better.  :-)

If you follow the walls, consider a reverse loop at both "ends" of your line.  You will get a much greater run, free more of your space for people, get a great storage space which will make your basement appear very neat and organized.

Wow!  What a great opportunity - and challenge!  Much fun lies ahead.

As far as benchwork goes, please take a look at Mianne Benchwork ( www.miannebenchwork.com ).  They offer some interesting takes on building your layout without going the "2'x4" route.

I've built four major layouts over the past xx years - each one of them sticks and boards ... but, for the present layout I'm now just beginning, I'm using the Mianne system.  For me (always with spaces <15'x12'), track plans flow from the space available after deciding on how the benchwork fits in the (relatively) limited space.

Have fun!

I am also a big fan of the Mianne benchwork, very nice stuff! It is very easy and fast to set up. Ready for trains in no time at all. It's also easily re-configured and added on to if you ever want to make changes. Great stuff! (Rthomps, I think you will really like it, or maybe already do.)

I think I'm going to go with something like this.  I found on the Atlas O Layout Packages.  It's called Cave Creek Central.  It's cool cause it's got plenty of places for cars and locomotives to park.  But it's not a rectangular shaped loop.  

It's going to be about 8'x21'.

The only thing is it's going to be pretty pricey.. so I intend to build the inner loop and crossing first...  Then add the switches, the external loop, and then the branches at the top.

I have a list of the parts for the whole thing but wish I knew exactly which pieces (besides the obvious ones) go where. If anyone has the schematic of the layout let me know.  

UP SD70 posted:

I think I'm going to go with something like this.  I found on the Atlas O Layout Packages.  It's called Cave Creek Central.  It's cool cause it's got plenty of places for cars and locomotives to park.  But it's not a rectangular shaped loop.  

 

It's going to be about 8'x21'.

The only thing is it's going to be pretty pricey.. so I intend to build the inner loop and crossing first...  Then add the switches, the external loop, and then the branches at the top.

I have a list of the parts for the whole thing but wish I knew exactly which pieces (besides the obvious ones) go where. If anyone has the schematic of the layout let me know.  

Ok, here you go - I have given you the substitute tracks to build the loop without the crossover. The location of the switches for the inner loop are displayed.

Find Atlas item #6008 - It has all of the details.

I would suggest that you build the table as an island walk-around or flip the yard to the front if one side will be against a wall.

Build the framing about 24" smaller on each dimension over-hanging 12" on each side and use 3/4" plywood for decking. That will provide a nice edge without bumping legs. You need 5.25 sheets or 6. The home store will do the 1' rip for you.

I have also indicated the a start point or index. If you center the 2- 1.75" pieces at that location, the rest of the layout will fit as you add-on.

One comment about this layout...It is really a large semi-scale layout as the small switch is O-54. Some scale engines can navigate that radius, but it could be limiting for scale steamers.

Lots of details to learn, framing, wiring, track installation - search here and on the web.

I hope this helps some - Good Luck and Have Fun!

Edit - The O54 switches have a 4.5" straight included -photo attached

WOW!!  MOONMAN, I CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH!!!  THIS IS AWESOME!!

I went ahead and got the Atlas O-Scale Layout Book.  It should arrive later this week.  I have been using 1/2" OSB for my small layout I had.  Should I use 3/4"?  I only have one 4x8 piece.  

I was going to use some Homosoate on top of the OSB.  I've used that Foam-baord insulation sheathing (the pink stuff) before.. It was ok.

Yes.. I've got a lot to learn as far as wiring and installation... but that's the fun of it.  Any recommendations on transformers?  I was hoping one transformer would work for the inner loop, and I would buy another for the outer loop and possibly another for the rail yard.  I'm sure the book will tell me.  

Thanks again for the map on the tracks.. that's a HUGE help!!  Especially since those switches are an arm and a leg to buy.  I can add as I go.  Especially in the rail yard.  

-Erik

Erik,

yeah, switches are costly for real railroads also. I thought you may want the option to get going without the total cost. That's why I provided the tracks options.

The key is the start point location on the table. Then you can complete the entire layout and have it all fit.

Transformers are not cheap. The easiest is to use the transformer from the manufacturer of trains that you intend run. Pick one to start. The remote/command operation is also a somewhat costly commitment. A pre-owned Lionel 6-32930 (ZW-C) or an MTH Z-4000 will serve you well and have long term benefits.

The Atlas book has some insights on benchwork, wiring and such, but you can learn a lot searching and reading those topics here. Yes, I do recommend the 3/4" plywood. Long term, you will be glad you did. The homosote is an option, as the roadbed will quiet the already quiet Atlas track.

I also strongly recommend that you locate it as island or floating table for a walk-around. Lots of viewing enjoyment and ease of work and running trains. Claim the real estate now before the better half gets ideas.

if you have a PC, you can download the SCARM software and I'll send you the file.

Enjoy the hobby! Plenty of knowledge and experience here on the OGR Forum. Poke around, make use of it and ask questions.

I plan on getting the MTH DCS Remote 50-1001.  But I don't think it comes with a transformer.  My 2 biggest questions are how much power I will need this inner loop without the cross and the switches... I was thinking 2 transformers for the whole Cave Creek Layout.  I've seen layouts that are powered every 6-8 feet..  Is that overkill?  Do they use their own wires because I haven't seen any terminal joiners that would go that long.  The whole wiring thing is going to be a challenge.  

The blocks you see every 6'-8' are only power drops, not separate transformers. You run wires from the transformer to a terminal strip and then run more wires from there to your blocks. You're right, the remote set you are buying does not include a transformer, so you will need to add one or more. That will depend on how many trains and accessories you want to run. If you want to stay with MTH, they offer the Z1000 and Z4000. The Z4000 has quite a bit of power, but you probably won't need the controller features, so you might consider one or more Z1000s. I have a Z1000, but I don't know if it will support the 3 trains I want to run when I get my layout built. If not, I intend to add another Z1000 or preferably a Lionel PH180 if/when they become available. I'm sure Carl will help with the power needs and wiring scheme. Since you plan on using DCS, you might consider purchasing the DCS Companion, 3rd Edition. You can find the link up in the list of advertisers at the top of each page here. It has a wealth of information regarding all things DCS.

UP SD70 posted:

I plan on getting the MTH DCS Remote 50-1001.  But I don't think it comes with a transformer.  My 2 biggest questions are how much power I will need this inner loop without the cross and the switches... I was thinking 2 transformers for the whole Cave Creek Layout.  I've seen layouts that are powered every 6-8 feet..  Is that overkill?  Do they use their own wires because I haven't seen any terminal joiners that would go that long.  The whole wiring thing is going to be a challenge.  

Dave is on it, you can start with a Z-1000. You can always use those on the layout in some way.

Take a deep breath, it's reading time. The wiring is no big deal. Stuff to learn, but it should run with just one connection.

Don't over think it.

yes, I know it's a lot to get your head around, but you'll find it's not that complicated. let what others have done show you the way and keep you from getting frustrated or feeling overwhelmed.

You can handle the budget one step at time. Work on something and then move  on to the next step. Build a table. Get some track and install it. Hook up two wires and run a train.

You'll feel good if you get the table built and claim the space. believe me, that's a big victory.

I actually have a 100 Watt Z500 that I've been using on my Fastrack oval.  I think 100 Watts should get me started on this inner loop.  I just will need to have some power drops along the track so it doesn't lose speed or stop at the other end.

Moonman posted:

UP SD70 posted:

I think I'm going to go with something like this.  I found on the Atlas O Layout Packages.  It's called Cave Creek Central.  It's cool cause it's got plenty of places for cars and locomotives to park.  But it's not a rectangular shaped loop.  

 

It's going to be about 8'x21'.

The only thing is it's going to be pretty pricey.. so I intend to build the inner loop and crossing first...  Then add the switches, the external loop, and then the branches at the top.

I have a list of the parts for the whole thing but wish I knew exactly which pieces (besides the obvious ones) go where. If anyone has the schematic of the layout let me know.  

Ok, here you go - I have given you the substitute tracks to build the loop without the crossover. The location of the switches for the inner loop are displayed.

Find Atlas item #6008 - It has all of the details.

I would suggest that you build the table as an island walk-around or flip the yard to the front if one side will be against a wall.

Build the framing about 24" smaller on each dimension over-hanging 12" on each side and use 3/4" plywood for decking. That will provide a nice edge without bumping legs. You need 5.25 sheets or 6. The home store will do the 1' rip for you.

I have also indicated the a start point or index. If you center the 2- 1.75" pieces at that location, the rest of the layout will fit as you add-on.

One comment about this layout...It is really a large semi-scale layout as the small switch is O-54. Some scale engines can navigate that radius, but it could be limiting for scale steamers.

Lots of details to learn, framing, wiring, track installation - search here and on the web.

I hope this helps some - Good Luck and Have Fun!

Edit - The O54 switches have a 4.5" straight included -photo attached

Carl,

I'm about to order this track through discount-train.. I was thinking about doing the cross without the switches.  So the train would kind of do a figure-8.

I would put a 6081- cross in the middle.  On the bottom of the cross I would add a 10" & 4.5" Straight the bottom right and left.  Then use the extra 072 curves for the top right and left instead of the straight track.

Is that doable?  Looks like it.

UP SD70 posted:

I actually have a 100 Watt Z500 that I've been using on my Fastrack oval.  I think 100 Watts should get me started on this inner loop.  I just will need to have some power drops along the track so it doesn't lose speed or stop at the other end.

Just FYI.

The Z-500 is 54w, says so on the bottom. It is enough to power 1, maybe 2 trains, depending on the engines, lighted cars, accessories, etc.

The Z-1000 is 80w at 14v and 100w at 18v. It has the separate 14v port to power the TIU.

For comparison, Lionel's PH-180 is 180w at a price comparable to or even less than the Z-1000. It doesn't have the separate 14v port for the TIU though, but that's what the Z-500 would be used for.

I also have the Z-500 and intend to relegate it to TIU duty when/if PH-180s become available again. I was going to upgrade to the Z-4000, but I don't need that much power or the controllers, etc. Two PH-180s will give me almost the same amount of power for half the cost.

UP SD70 posted:

Moonman posted:

UP SD70 posted:

I think I'm going to go with something like this.  I found on the Atlas O Layout Packages.  It's called Cave Creek Central.  It's cool cause it's got plenty of places for cars and locomotives to park.  But it's not a rectangular shaped loop.  

 

It's going to be about 8'x21'.

The only thing is it's going to be pretty pricey.. so I intend to build the inner loop and crossing first...  Then add the switches, the external loop, and then the branches at the top.

I have a list of the parts for the whole thing but wish I knew exactly which pieces (besides the obvious ones) go where. If anyone has the schematic of the layout let me know.  

Ok, here you go - I have given you the substitute tracks to build the loop without the crossover. The location of the switches for the inner loop are displayed.

Find Atlas item #6008 - It has all of the details.

I would suggest that you build the table as an island walk-around or flip the yard to the front if one side will be against a wall.

Build the framing about 24" smaller on each dimension over-hanging 12" on each side and use 3/4" plywood for decking. That will provide a nice edge without bumping legs. You need 5.25 sheets or 6. The home store will do the 1' rip for you.

I have also indicated the a start point or index. If you center the 2- 1.75" pieces at that location, the rest of the layout will fit as you add-on.

One comment about this layout...It is really a large semi-scale layout as the small switch is O-54. Some scale engines can navigate that radius, but it could be limiting for scale steamers.

Lots of details to learn, framing, wiring, track installation - search here and on the web.

I hope this helps some - Good Luck and Have Fun!

Edit - The O54 switches have a 4.5" straight included -photo attached

Carl,

I'm about to order this track through discount-train.. I was thinking about doing the cross without the switches.  So the train would kind of do a figure-8.

I would put a 6081- cross in the middle.  On the bottom of the cross I would add a 10" & 4.5" Straight the bottom right and left.  Then use the extra 072 curves for the top right and left instead of the straight track.

Is that doable?  Looks like it.

Well, that will throw off the starting reference point so that the rest of the layout can be built around it. Make it 108.25" from the left and 21.25" from the top where the center rail of the 1.75" and the O72 curve to the cross join.

here's the configuration

UP SD70 posted:

I actually have a 100 Watt Z500 that I've been using on my Fastrack oval.  I think 100 Watts should get me started on this inner loop.  I just will need to have some power drops along the track so it doesn't lose speed or stop at the other end.

If you have good track joints, you may not any need drops. Only add them if you get some voltage drops or a train slows down. The Z-500 is a little weak, but you have it, so try it out. it's 48.5 feet of track.

Moonman posted:

UP SD70 posted:

I actually have a 100 Watt Z500 that I've been using on my Fastrack oval.  I think 100 Watts should get me started on this inner loop.  I just will need to have some power drops along the track so it doesn't lose speed or stop at the other end.

If you have good track joints, you may not any need drops. Only add them if you get some voltage drops or a train slows down. The Z-500 is a little weak, but you have it, so try it out. it's 48.5 feet of track.

Thanks Carl. 

I hope the joints will be good. They will be brand new. I'm buying all the Atlas Track this weekend.  That's why I'm trying to configure a "starter" to the full set so I don't have to spend $3000 at once. 

Yeah on the Z500 I was looking at the Input. The Output is 18V 54W

I was wondering  what you meant by "starting point". 

Was just able to get a Lionel Powerhouse 180W Transformer for $95.  

UP SD70 posted:

Moonman posted:

UP SD70 posted:

I actually have a 100 Watt Z500 that I've been using on my Fastrack oval.  I think 100 Watts should get me started on this inner loop.  I just will need to have some power drops along the track so it doesn't lose speed or stop at the other end.

If you have good track joints, you may not any need drops. Only add them if you get some voltage drops or a train slows down. The Z-500 is a little weak, but you have it, so try it out. it's 48.5 feet of track.

Thanks Carl. 

I hope the joints will be good. They will be brand new. I'm buying all the Atlas Track this weekend.  That's why I'm trying to configure a "starter" to the full set so I don't have to spend $3000 at once. 

Yeah on the Z500 I was looking at the Input. The Output is 18V 54W

I was wondering  what you meant by "starting point". 

 

 

"Starting Point" - A set of coordinates referencing a point on the table. If you begin assembly of the track at this point, the inner loop will be positioned on the table to allow the proper spacing and location to build the rest of the layout around it.

It is 108.25" from the left of table and  21.25" from the top. Place and 1-3/4" and the O72 curve (down and to the right, to the cross) center rails at this location and join them. Build the rest from there.

UP SD70 posted:

Was just able to get a Lionel Powerhouse 180W Transformer for $95.  

Sounds like a fair price. Good transformer. You'll need an adapter cable to connect to the TIU. (50-1001)  Are you any good at wiring?

It is my opinion that it is best to leave the factory connector on the PH180 and use a cable with a mating connector to get to wires suitable for the TIU connection.

Moonman posted:

UP SD70 posted:

Was just able to get a Lionel Powerhouse 180W Transformer for $95.  

Sounds like a fair price. Good transformer. You'll need an adapter cable to connect to the TIU. (50-1001)  Are you any good at wiring?

It is my opinion that it is best to leave the factory connector on the PH180 and use a cable with a mating connector to get to wires suitable for the TIU connection.

Yeah.. I thought it was a "little" high, but I know they can be hard to find.. and most dealers are out of stock on them.  I had no idea there was such a demand.  Anyway..  I didn't mind, since I think 180 Watts should take care of most things for a while.  I plan to use my Z500 for the lit accessories and switches.  

I'm good with wiring.  I plan on just cutting the end off and putting banana clips on that I already have.  

UP SD70 posted:

Moonman posted:

UP SD70 posted:

Was just able to get a Lionel Powerhouse 180W Transformer for $95.  

Sounds like a fair price. Good transformer. You'll need an adapter cable to connect to the TIU. (50-1001)  Are you any good at wiring?

It is my opinion that it is best to leave the factory connector on the PH180 and use a cable with a mating connector to get to wires suitable for the TIU connection.

Yeah.. I thought it was a "little" high, but I know they can be hard to find.. and most dealers are out of stock on them.  I had no idea there was such a demand.  Anyway..  I didn't mind, since I think 180 Watts should take care of most things for a while.  I plan to use my Z500 for the lit accessories and switches.  

I'm good with wiring.  I plan on just cutting the end off and putting banana clips on that I already have.  

That's ok, but will hurt the resale value if you find a need to sell it at some point. The wire closest to the blank point is HOT. It should be the smooth wire.

The molex connector and pins are inexpensive from Digikey.

MAN!!  I just got my Atlas O "3 Rail Layouts" Book in the mail.. what a cool book!!  I think if I had this, I may not have had so many questions.  It was making me change my mind on my layout.. but I kept going back to the Cave Creek Central layout.

Besides the transformer and track.. do I need a Terminal Track?  I was going to order my track today and was wondering if I may need to sub out one of the 10" tracks for a 10" Terminal Track.  

Also.. I'm assuming I will need some layout wire for doing power drops.  I'm not sure what to look for.  I see that there are 16 "Terminal Joiners" needed too.  

I've got some reading to do..  So much for hooking a black/red wire from some Fastrack to my DCS to a transformer...  It's starting to get a little complicated.. in a good way.  

Keep in mind  that Atlas track can be cut to custom lengths using an add on end piece (6057).

Some custom fit pieces on my layout.

I have two suggestions:

1. Derailments typically happen in the least accessible areas of a layout.  Therefore, I suggest that you design pop-up access openings where you cannot reach the trains from the edge of the layout.  Otherwise you'll be climbing up and walking on the layout and trying not to wreck anything in the process.  
2. Put a little straight track between reverse curves.

Have a great time building and operating your layout!

Not really complicated. Each track system has it's nuances for connecting power, joining and fitting. There are a few ways to get power to track. Keep it simple, as you are just learning this stuff. Build the table, get the track, and yes, a couple of terminal joiners, and some track joiners and assemble the modified inner loop and leave it loose, hook up the power and control at one place and try and engine.

While all of this going on (building your laboratory), continue to read and learn, look at the forum stuff (search) and anything that you can find on the internet.

Even if you get enough track to make an oval, (O63 circle and some straights and joiners) ,you'll have what you need to try everything and learn how it works.

Then, you can decide on roadbed, track screws and if you need more power feeds. (you will for DCS).

Use 16awg stranded for your testing. You can decide on wire sizes when you are ready to go.

yes, it is a useful book with a lot of information. I bought it for the plans for The "NEW" York Central- O-31.

PS - you will need a multi-meter to save headaches when playing with electric trains. The Harbor Freight versions work great and are inexpensive. You will need to check connections using continuity and measure voltage.