Plastic model glue?

This is what I use.  Should be available at your LHS.

Testors plastic glue is still available. It's a thick solvent with a plastic binder. It works well and easy to use but watch getting too much on joints and causing a mess.

For plastic kit assembly I use the Testors but I also use Ambroid Pro Weld bottle glue. It is a water like solvent that melts surfaces together but the joint must be tight to work right. If you are going to get only one get the Testors.....less than $2 a big tube and works for all type joints.

You can still get "tube" glue.  Not recommended.  

There are a number of solvent based cements that actually "weld" plastic together.  There are also "glues" like super glue that bind different materials.  The stuff I use/like is not available (Tenex 7R).  This is actually a solvent (dichloromethane) and allegedly MicroMark and Ambroid use this in there new liquid cements.  

Testors and Microscale also cary liquid solvent cements.  Some people prefer them as they allow more time to fuss with the parts.  DCM is like a spot welder.  It sets in a few seconds.  Super glue's are also usually even faster, like instant set and they also tend to glue things you weren't trying to, like your fingers.

This is my favorite. The needle applicator makes it easy to use just a very small point of glue. Its as fast as super glue. IMO

Testors is still available and I use it for a lot of things around the house and layout.  I like to get it packed in a paper bag with some tissues for, you know, um padding.

I have had good luck with the Gorilla brand super glue (blue cap) - available at lots of local stores.

It is a bit thicker than most super glues, so it does not run, and make arts placement a bit better, it also has some "rubber" characteristics, so it has a less brittle joint.

I want to thank everyone for the glue ideas.  As I expected, lots of information.  Folks here are really helpful, especially for those of us who are just getting into, or back into the hobby.  I really appreciate the help.

The thin liquid plastic cements work really well for tight-fitting joints, just watch that it doesn't bleed into places where you don't want it. The old-style thick plastic glue may work better for some applications.

I still use Testors, in a tube, when strength of bond is the main thing.  They make several different glues but I use only the orange tube plastic glue.  Smells the same as when I was a kid, too.  As you recall it is a rather runny gel, but it succeeds in really bonding all manner of plastics well - nothing I have found welds as many different types of plastics and plasticy stuff to one another as Testors -  but often however leaving visible traces of itself - looking almost like the ripply lines made on metal by a welding torch, because it is a thick, running glue that is often too thick - hard to dab just a tiny tiny bit.  On the other hand, liberally applied and left to hard, the two pieces are now one forevermore.

Otherwise, and when I don't want to leave "weld marks" I use Plastruct Plastic Weld general purpose solvent - brush on, in a bottle.  They also make several different types and I use only the general purpose (orange label).  A note - this stuff is extremely volatile, to the point that it escapes from the sealed (or perhaps not so well sealed ) bottle gradually.  If you buy this, check that the bottle you are buying is actually full - I have seen an entire back row of inventory at one local store that had been on the shelf long enough that every bottle was only about 2/3 full.  Also if you use some and then screw the top on very well, and put it on your shelf for a year, its carrier fluid will probably have evaporated to the point it is now a thick goo, like in the tube, or thicker.  

Trainman, I tried the faller but never did get the glue to come through the needle. Whats the secret?

romiller

I just use pure 100% methylene chloride for almost every plastic to plastic joint.  Those that do not work are rare, so far.  Solutions to that situation have been a thin film of Goo on one surface and medium viscosity CA on the other.  I rebuilt the broken door on the microwave using that mix and it's been rock solid.

I just completed my first and probably last "model" project. Way too much super glue and the hands, tweezers, table and model but I enjoyed the process and the "Train Station looks good" even with glue spots around the seams, windows and just open areas. Skilled like y'all , I am not but I have fun.

Brent

I still build model cars and trucks..and trains. My prefered faves are dependant on the application. Good fitting joints get Tenax or plastruct liquid{depends on which I have for use}...these have the brush applicator. Big areas to glue get the old fashioned tube glue where the liquid glue can't wick in far enough..anything bigger than a 1" plate onto a bigger surface- a little dab here and there helps adhesion. Super glue is good but I prefer the foam safe versions for many reasons- no white residue or fogging of clear parts or painted areas- gluing windows in or adding small details after paint{mirros/wipers/antennas/badges}. Of that type of CA there's gap filling for added strength for joints and not so well fitting parts. The only issue with the foam safe CA is it's alittle weaker than regular CA.

Hope this helps...and I used everything above so far to build this lil On30 diesel.

I never cared much for Super Glue model building. I do use it sometimes to tack and hold.

Good ole tube cement for large pieces and liquid works good for small attachments.