PLYWOOD Treament.

Elmers glue is mainly milk, it is non-toxic.

The plywood has more chemicals, than the glue.

So don't eat your layout.

totrainyard posted:

Elmers glue is mainly milk, it is non-toxic.

The plywood has more chemicals, than the glue.

So don't eat your layout.

 

Thanks.  Good point on the plywood.

Plywood used indoors doesn't need any special protection. A coat of brown latex paint is a good easy start for scenic enhancement of a model railroad. 

Ace posted:

Plywood used indoors doesn't need any special protection. A coat of brown latex paint is a good easy start for scenic enhancement of a model railroad. 

Thanks. Good idea.

if you wanted to made sure it doesn't , warp,  dry loc, paint,  if its exterior  plywood,  it will be made with waterproof glue,

then to spend big bucks,  marine grade plywood,

riki posted:

if you wanted to made sure it doesn't , warp,  dry loc, paint,  if its exterior  plywood,  it will be made with waterproof glue,

then to spend big bucks,  marine grade plywood,

Thanks.  Excellent idea.

1/2" plywood of any type, with any treatment, is not going to stay flat if elevated off the ground by itself. It is the frame members it is attached to that will keep it flat. 3/4" thick boards at least 2" wide or more around the edges and at reasonable intervals across the board will give you a stable platform with even 1/4" plywood, although thicker plywood would be advised if you will be walking or kneeling on the layout at any time. 

German posted:

1/2" plywood of any type, with any treatment, is not going to stay flat if elevated off the ground by itself. It is the frame members it is attached to that will keep it flat. 3/4" thick boards at least 2" wide or more around the edges and at reasonable intervals across the board will give you a stable platform with even 1/4" plywood, although thicker plywood would be advised if you will be walking or kneeling on the layout at any time. 

Thanks.  That is the size of my frame.  I am using 1/2 inch plywood.

Plywood left unfinished will over time change its appearance. A sealer at least is recommended. If you paint the wood in a non-obnoxious shade of green, gray, or brown, your layout will at least look partially finished. 

Would Minwax and a varnish be o.k. for the plywood?

Russian Birch is the best plywood out there.. using minwax and varnish is a chemical inside.. there is a water based varnish out there too..

http://www.russianlumber.com/plywood.htm

How are you supporting the 2 inch high framing?
The wider the boards the longer your unsupported spans can be without sagging, flexing, etc.

I would not paint the plywood before gluing. If you do you will be gluing to the paint not to the wood, so the strength of the bond will be dependent upon the adherence of the paint. Gluing to bare wood allows the glue to penetrate into the wood for a stronger bond.

Finish the plywood AFTER it is glued in place.

MrNabisco posted:

I would not paint the plywood before gluing. If you do you will be gluing to the paint not to the wood, so the strength of the bond will be dependent upon the adherence of the paint. Gluing to bare wood allows the glue to penetrate into the wood for a stronger bond.

Finish the plywood AFTER it is glued in place.

 

 

Thanks. Excellent point.  I am new at this. All the help is great.

Bill

Thanks to everyone for all the information.

Bill

Never use treated wood indoors. It releases unsafe toxins!!!!!!!!! Look it up.

All I did was paint the bottom  bottom side facing the floor of the regular cheap plywood with white latex paint.  This seals and protects and makes it easier to work under your layout.  Well worth the extra time and money.  

Ace posted:

Plywood used indoors doesn't need any special protection. A coat of brown latex paint is a good easy start for scenic enhancement of a model railroad. 

Best idea....

And, as a further 'tip'....  If a Home Depot or Lowes is available to you, they often have "Oops!" paints available at deep discounts.  Sometimes the 'oops' colors are satisfactory for a base scenery color.

FWIW, always...

KD

dkdkrd posted:

Ace posted:

Plywood used indoors doesn't need any special protection. A coat of brown latex paint is a good easy start for scenic enhancement of a model railroad. 

Best idea....

And, as a further 'tip'....  If a Home Depot or Lowes is available to you, they often have "Oops!" paints available at deep discounts.  Sometimes the 'oops' colors are satisfactory for a base scenery color.

FWIW, always...

KD

I borrowed about 1/2 gallon from my neighbor. Worked great.  

Thanks

Bill

Good idea.

dkdkrd posted:

Ace posted:

Plywood used indoors doesn't need any special protection. A coat of brown latex paint is a good easy start for scenic enhancement of a model railroad. 

Best idea....

And, as a further 'tip'....  If a Home Depot or Lowes is available to you, they often have "Oops!" paints available at deep discounts.  Sometimes the 'oops' colors are satisfactory for a base scenery color.

FWIW, always...

KD

I got a quart of beigeish latex for $3 from Lowes and painted the base of my entire layout with it. Excellent tip. 

Bill,

I purchase a Gallon latex Gray Painted entire layout and Lag's with it.

My Layout is  8' X 24' no problems works well with any  Scenery too. 

Good luck, John

NYC,SUBWAY TRANSIT SIGNAL posted:

Bill,

I purchase a Gallon latex Gray Painted entire layout and Lag's with it.

My Layout is  8' X 24' no problems works well with any  Scenery too. 

Good luck, John

Thanks

Bill