Pondering starting over..again...today

Any comments I make are just my suggestions and my opinions. Others will have different ideas.

First - what are the dimensions of the layout and what material did you use for roadbed? Cork roadbed can be glued down onto extruded pink (or blue) foam with yellow carpenters glue.

I recommend assembling all the track atop the foam temporarily and adjusting it until you have a track plan that is satisfactory. Then mark the track plan onto the foam and begin to glue down cork roadbed section by section, making sure the roadbed is in the exact position beneath the track. I would not glue the track down. Instead, drill holes through some of the wooden ties (between about 9 and 12 inches apart) and use track screws to secure the track onto the cork. I found that Atlas O track screws worked well with the Atlas O track on my layout.  This will allow the track to be removed easily if necessary. I would leave ballasting until much later in the layout-building process when you're certain where the structures and scenery will be on the layout.

In my opinion, it is not necessary to ballast the entire track plan. You may be able to omit ballast altogether at the rear of the layout where it is not readily visible. You may also be able to get away just with ballast outside the rails and not between the rails. You can secure the ballast with yellow carpenters glue diluted half-and-half with water and applied with an eye-dropper. This makes things much easier if you ever need to replace a piece of track or disassemble the layout for moving.

Again, just my opinion and my way of doing it.

MELGAR

You can release white glue with alcohol (but good luck finding mass quantities of that any time soon). If you use adhesive caulk, rather than glue then you can get the track off with a putty knife and a lot of elbow grease, but honestly, if once it’s ballasted, by and large, it’s expendable. I’d put the effort into salvaging switches and other specialty items. Plus, GG flex doesn’t go back straight once it’s bent anyways. 
I glued some track down with dynaflex 230. I’ve been able to pull some up and tweak it. Just sand the residue off the foam, repaint the pink spots and go again. 

Tacky glue?  What kind of tacky glue???  That might be part of the problem.

I'd recommend trying Elmer's Glue-All for gluing down the track and then later ballasting.  Elmer's will dry clear and flat, but is not water-proof.  You can come back anytime later, soak it down good with water, and get it to loosen up.  When you get your track loose, you can put track sections in a tub of warm, soapy water to further loosen any residual glue and ballast, then you should be able to brush it off with a stiff nylon brush.

That being said, I have not tried this yet with GarGraves track, but I have with N-scale and HO scale track (yeah, I know, they have plastic ties as opposed to wooden ties).  The water-softening method works well with plastic ties, I'd be willing to bet it should work at least half way decent with wooden ties, too.

Mixed Freight is correct on the Elmer's glue. It is what I used. I did not glue track down. I used Atlas 21st Century Track and put Carpet Tape under it. It is double sided. When I did finally ballast, I used Elmer's Glue. When I have needed to remove a section of track (due to adding an accessory), If the track was ballasted, simply wetting it and using a putty knife removed it fine. Ballast easily comes off the track if any is still on it. YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL but the track will come off the Carpet Tape you just can not rip, Tear, Bust, Break. Take your time. All my track is directly laid on carpet tape which is on 1" Foam on top of my bench work (which I did not glue to bench work in most places).

I don't know what dimensions you are working with but you can possibly make it sectional so if you move, you can reassemble.

Brendan

We removed White glue ballasted track at AGHR with Denatured alcohol it came up with a little prodding with a putty knife.

It's too late to help you, I would never glue any track....I don't glue the cork or ballast ...where is it going to go? I do use atlas track screws ....one every 4-5 foot....

The HO crowd often uses dabs of white caulk. (not gobs)

A wide spackle or putty knife will pry it right up or slice through small gobs, but the hold is good.

Also, I know you want "a real layout" and done "yesterday". But I always suggest a small carpet loop to run on while you meditate on the next step for the real thing. It keeps the spark going, itch scratched, and keeps impulsive mistakes in the name of finishing at a minimum. It can really inspire imo.

The key to wet metal vs rust is not delaying in drying it fast and fully and wiping a little protective oil on the metal after. 

Isn't.the Miane stuff somewhat module design ready with some leg and support additions?

I use a band saw to saw away the roadbed from the track when it was glued.

Look at the bottle of "tacky glue" and see if there's information on the side about what to use to dissolve it.

I'm also from the "gravity" family of track placement - maybe one track screw every 3'-4' to keep it from shifting.