Post and cable guard rail help needed....

I don't have pictures directly.

However I will try my best to describe them from Memory. At one time they were all over the place, particularly on edges of roadway with a large drop off. Bridge approaches/exits etc.

Curves on single lane or two lane roads in the hills were notorious for having these kinds of barriers before the big roads were built some decades ago.

I believe they were about 2 to 3 feet high and about almost as wide as a telephone pole. The cabling was two to a post and slack is left hanging between posts the whole length of the barrier. That way should a vehicle big or small need to be stopped by this system, the cables can stretch a bit without snapping the poles hopefully until the vehicle is contained.

The Posts were about 10 feet apart maybe a bit more. Cars reached 30 to 40 feet or more in those days. Today's cars generally will fit in either the Hood, trunk or cabin of these old cars... man the memories... and the pain of parking these barges...

Eventually they migrated to the newer Stamped metal that are rather strong and can actually bounce a car back onto the roadway or wrap it up to stop it.

There is a DOT test site that tested extensively various systems used on our roads I just cannot recall where or what it was online. I recall receiving training with 18 wheeler how to use some of these barriers without getting hurt or stuck needing a tow.

I think to leave it here and make a project to search some pictures out online to post here with citation to the source to better show you what these things are about.

Sometimes they were painted white or some other color. They may differ in appearance in National Parks and other special places. The cabling was about maybe a inch thick or less composed of about 30 or so wires about... a 1/4 inch thick wound once every 3 feet or so.

The cable ends on the last post (Or the first post) were extended a bit further out and received an anchor typical of that used on suspension bridges.

The middle posts served a very important and life saving feature. They work to contain the forces of the crash without snapping and whipping around slicing anyone in half. Occasionally our Carriers at sea have this issue and the Arrest-er crewman  have to dance for their very lives.

Regarding model ideas for cabling, I suppose it would not be too difficult to take a old beat up crane model, strip the string out, tie one end and start winding. Paint the results after installation on the posts or weather them a bit of rust.

POSTS: 1/4" dowels (as you suggest).  Rounded, distressed, painted white, then weathered

HOOKS:  Bent from .020" copper wire.  But now that I know about them, I'd use eyelets from a craft store

CABLE:  22 gauge stranded wire, painted with gray primer

Ken,

I used 3/16" dowels and 0.021" diameter 302 stainless steel wire rope, and I believe they look fine.

The 3/16" dowels would be 9" in full scale, and that is close to some real ones I measured in a park. The 0.021" wire would be 1" diameter in full scale, and although 3/4" or 1/2" diameters would be closer to what is more widely used, the 1" looks OK.

The dowel you can buy anywhere. The wire rope is from McMaster-Carr, catalog number 3458T115, and costs $0.07 per foot. I bought 300 feet ($21) and have used it several places already, but you can buy as little as 50 feet. BTW, there is no minimum order with McMaster, and their shipping charges are the lowest I have seen.

A couple of pictures of the ones I used around my turntable. (Click on the pictures to enlarge.) 

Good luck!

Alex

Definitely use 2/16" diameter dowels for a scale 9in diameter post, and definitely attach the cables per John's suggested method above for the most realistic results.

Bob

Make that 3/16" diameter....can't figure out editing in this forum.

Bob

john, your posts and cable look great. am curious about the reference to the eyelets. do you mean the oneI that you screw into wood? do any of them come small enough? thanks

jerrman

I just did a search for tiny eye screws and it looks like they go pretty tiny! I am going to dic around some more. I also searched eyelets and I am not sure how they would apply for what is being modeled here.

jerrman,

Try here. I use them, their excellent.

http://www.crowriverproducts.c...ersHardwareStore.htm

Bob

Thanks Bob! They look perfect!

Alex.....issue is that unless you are a business you cannot order from McMaster Carr. I have even tried to do it from work but I am not sure how to get around the credit card and billing address part. I order from them all the time at work and could just add it into a work order but that is not proper and there is no way to pay the company back for a personal purchase.

am curious about the reference to the eyelets. do you mean the oneI that you screw into wood?

They are called eye pins, and are available from any craft store (Michaels, AC Moore).

The loop is a bit less than 1/8" (.125") outside diameter.  So they scale to 6".  Probably too big by about 50%.  But they are really cheap. ($1.79 for all 72 pieces). 

Note the Crow River eye pins are .102" diameter

Either is a better choice than rolling your own!

Probably wise not to go off into that area, John,

One hint for setting the posts.  I always do them first, epoxying them to the foam core that I generally use for a base.  It makes them easy to line up and get straight, and you can spray paint the whole deal before scenicking around them.  Here are some process shots:

Here's another example:

Pete...I am curious as to what you used to "anchor" the ends of your steel cables.

Same to the others that posted pictures and/or responses. How did you realistically secure the ends of your cables?

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas!

Avanti,

How do you keep the foam core from warping when you apply scenery to the top of it?

Really nice looking layout too!

Although I keep reading about warping problems with foam core, I have never experienced it. So, I have no idea what I am doing that others aren't.   I *do* usually anchor it firmly to the underlayment with drywall screws.  Maybe that does it?

Thanks!

I used 3/16" dowels cut at an angle at the top. They are 7/8" above "ground" with a bit of the black base showing. I used small "brad" nails cut off and drilled small holes and inserted into the post. I then used grey thread to wrap around the nail head from post to post and around a nail head in the ground at the ends.