Postwar #342 Culvert Loader, NEED HELP FIXING!!

Some thoughts.

 As far as the mechanism slowing down and stopping is replace the drive line cord.

  I have found after after years of use the cord/string becomes too 'smooth' to get a good grip on the pulley. Replacing it will solve that problem. Also bend a piece of sandpaper in half and sand the groove the string rides in the drive pulley. This will give some bite in the nylon plastic.

 As far as the grappler not moving far enough to drop the culvert squarely in the car, remove the single screw that holds the building to the frame and move the building about 1/32 of a inch towards the track. Hold with your hand and try operating the loader. Drill a small hole and remount the building if this helps

Be sure the culvert ramp is tight against the building. Add shim of cardboard if necessary. Move track in the channel as close to the building as possible.

 If all the above fails, You can send it to me for repair.

Chuck

 www.Only3Rail.com

Also, don't oil anything on the 342.  Pivots and axles, use dry graphite very sparingly.

Chuck, i'll give those tips a try.  Quick question on the type of string to use for replacement, the manual refers to it as 12lb test braided de-waxed nylon spinning line, what is that??  I assume it's some sort of fishing line, any suggestions on what to use?  Also, I wonder if I should switch out the spring. 

Rob, i'm going to have to get some brake cleaner and degrease the whole thing!

It is just white unwaxed cord. If you need some and a new spring, let me know and email me you mailing address and I'll mail out to you.

Chuck

"i'm going to have to get some brake cleaner and degrease the whole thing!"

Brake cleaner will melt plastic and might take off the paint.

Chuck, thanks for the info and the offer.  I can't accept though because I already made a commitment to purchase parts from Jeff at ttender.com, and I don't want to be a bad customer and back out. It's okay though, the pieces are super cheap.
Also,  no brake cleaner!  Okay, everything will just get a good wipe down.
I realized also what is probably the source of my trouble.  I don't have a variable output ac transformer, I had wired onto a cheap ho transformer's ac ports!  They are pushing 20volts ac!!! Literature says around 6 to 12 is all that's needed?!?  Oops.  I'm beating the whole thing to shreds! Time to visit the parents and come back with dad's ZW!!!

The 342 has a sweet spot for smooth operation - you won't need a ZW, but you may want a small transformer for accessory control - I use a 1033.

Chuck,

 I understand your fix for getting the trolley over the gondola; however Dom noted that he also had a problem with the trolley not traveling back far enough for the pickup. We found that you can apply firm but gentle pressure on the vertical shaft assembly so as to shift it towards the gantry. This provides extra travel in both directions. When the travel is adjusted sufficiently the house and roof can be secured in the new position.

 

Dom, Some smoothness can be attained by cleaning the bar on the gantry to allow free movement of the trolley. I agree that new string and a clean grove in the gear work wonders.

 

I look forward to hearing other methods for this balky accessory.

Bob, by vertical shaft I assume you mean the piece that extends up through the roof?

Rob, I may not "need" a ZW, but its such a shame to leave it collecting dust in a closet....  Stealing, I mean RESCUING it is the right thing to do. This just gives me an excuse!

Some

Correct Dom, the book calls it the pivot stud. With the house removed use just some even pressure towards the bar. You can do it while it's operating and see the difference.

 

Something that I forgot was the position of the car along the track. The difference of 1/4" is a big deal. The pipe has to hit the high point of the ramp.