Power Drop Track Connections: Solder vs Spade Connectors

I have done it both ways.  Neither has caused any problems.  With the spade connector I have spread the ties out, inserted the spade connector, then moved the ties back as close as possible at that location.  This seems to make the connection very tight.  Another method was to strip the wire longer than usual, up to an inch, bend it 90 degrees, insert as above in the direction of the rail, and close the ties.  The wire if it is a sufficient gauge is now firmly embedded in the rail.  If you really want overkill a spot of solder will ensure it never moves.  Of course this method is best when laying track for the first time.  Any future modifications and I would revert to solder.

My Postwar layout uses regular Lionel tin track but the concept is the same.  I solder all my track connections. No clips, no lock-ons.

Wired my layout - Gargraves phantom rail - with spades pushed into the rail from underneath. Very reliable operation with no drop-out in power.

necrails posted:

I have done it both ways.  Neither has caused any problems.  With the spade connector I have spread the ties out, inserted the spade connector, then moved the ties back as close as possible at that location.  This seems to make the connection very tight.  Another method was to strip the wire longer than usual, up to an inch, bend it 90 degrees, insert as above in the direction of the rail, and close the ties.  The wire if it is a sufficient gauge is now firmly embedded in the rail.  If you really want overkill a spot of solder will ensure it never moves.  Of course this method is best when laying track for the first time.  Any future modifications and I would revert to solder.

I am not quite sure i follow the second method, where you stripped an inch of wire and bent it and inserted in the direction of the rail.

Did you actually force the soldered end up and into the rail?

Can you describe that one a little more please?

 I have used spade connectors for 30 years. I recently pulled up some fully ballasted Gargraves track. Connections were still good and no corrosion. For my recent additions track wise. I bought some non insulated connectors. I grind off the portion of rail that slides in the ties on Gargraves track so you have a nice flat surface with no blackening. I lay the track where it will be placed. Then mark and drill where the wires will drop through the roadbed. I insert them as before at the workbench.  But now solder the connector to the rail and the wire to the connector. I found this method and easy way to keep the wire in place while soldering. I use 14 gauge feeders. 
 This is probably overkill. 30 years and no issues with just inserting the connectors into the rail. I did solder wires to the Ross switches.  No voltage drops and 10’s everywhere for DCS.  I remember buying the connectors from Right of Way Industries back when I first started as this was their preferred method for wiring Gargraves.

Press fitting spade connectors in the bottoms of GarGraves track is no different, electrically, than using GG's wireless "connectors" that are installed in the same way--i.e. press fit.

http://www.gargraves.com/accessories.html#Connectors

For temporary Christmas layouts and my current test layout, I solder about 1" of stranded 18 awg that has been tightly twisted; bend it at a 90 degree angle; insert the soldered end in the rail in the space just above the tie; and, slip the other end of the wire through a hole in the tabletop.  Makes for a nice tight fit.

With Lionel tubular track, what kind of spade connectors should you use, and how should you install them?

I just took another look at the Ross track sections, and had forgotten that there are two wood stringers that go thru, and are flush with the bottom of the wood ties, to hold them in place and to hold the shape of the track.
These stringers are immediately below the two outside rails, such that in order to use spade connectors at the outside rail, the stringer would need to be cut out at that spot.
Would this have an appreciable effect on the integrity of the track?

Thin steel go in easier, less bending.

Brass are the best connection long term though.

Aluminum.... if you must 🙄

Marx power lock-on's use two steel wedge fit tabs up from their "board" with fahnstock clips....same deal here.

Pressure has a huge impact on lowering resistance of a connection so this method works very well if tight.

 Mind you don't squish/dent a rail top, or warp inside edge of rails, or twist them up. Lay the track flat as pressing them in isn't always easy, you might need to pry and press at the same time.

RWL, Cutting the stringers will have no effect on the Ross track.

Dave_C posted:

RWL, Cutting the stringers will have no effect on the Ross track.

Thanks Dave, I much appreciate the confirmation.  

So, here is another question:

Does it the material of the spade connectors make any difference?
Brass vs the non-brass connector?

Don't know what the non-brass ones are made of.

I purchased mine on the bay. ocapindustries was the seller. Do a search for 14 gauge uninsulated male disconnects. They seem of good quality. After inserting them into the Rail. I did grind off the web portion first that slips into the ties to get a good flat surface for solder.  Probably overkill. I easily soldered them to the rail. A lot easier than holding or clamping the wire and trying to solder it.

Dave_C posted:

I purchased mine on the bay. ocapindustries was the seller. Do a search for 14 gauge uninsulated male disconnects.

Here is the post on the spade connectors from 2018 with more info.

Thanks guys.

I found these, and they look to be brass, but it does not say it anywhere.
They also have the Open U - Double Barrel style crimps.

However, they look to be formed rather than a solid flange.

https://www.belmetric.com/noni...svrh1ma5ntj65tlf5su1

 They will work. You may need a special crimping tool though. They can be expensive for a good one. You need to make 2 crimps. One for the stripped portion and one over the wire that still has insulation on it. The ones with a simple solid barrel connector work fine. If your soldering the connector to the rail. Solder the wire to the connector as well. Even though it’s crimped.

Dave_C posted:

 They will work. You may need a special crimping tool though. They can be expensive for a good one. You need to make 2 crimps. One for the stripped portion and one over the wire that still has insulation on it. The ones with a simple solid barrel connector work fine. If your soldering the connector to the rail. Solder the wire to the connector as well. Even though it’s crimped.

I neglected to mention that I have the Open U Double Barrel crimper already, as I need to make "Y" connectors between my Lionel 180 bricks and the ZW transformer, using the Mouser plugs and terminals, which are also Open U Double Barrel terminals.

Dave_C posted:

 They will work. You may need a special crimping tool though. They can be expensive for a good one. You need to make 2 crimps. One for the stripped portion and one over the wire that still has insulation on it. The ones with a simple solid barrel connector work fine. If your soldering the connector to the rail. Solder the wire to the connector as well. Even though it’s crimped.

I figure that they will work, but am more curious as to whether or not using brass spades is, in fact, much of a consideration.
It seems that most here are just using the regular non brass versions.

So, when inserting the spade connectors:
What is the actual process, and tool, to be used for shoving them into the slot in rail?

Needle nose pliers. Slide the ties apart a bit. Grab the connector right at the crimp and give it a good firm straight push. You may hear a slight click. The spade connector is probably slightly thicker than the hollow portion of the rail. It may bulge the rail out a little. Slide the ties back together and it will tighten it up even more.

I use a small screw driver.  Has worked w/no problems without soldering.  YMMV  This is Menard’s tubular.

Thanks Ted,

I did just as you said.
However I was able to use just my fingers  to push the spade right into the Ross track rail, but it is  still a good tight fit.
I can not pull it out, at all, with my fingers.

The real beauty is that the uninsulated ferrule clears the bottom of the Ross Bed by a fair amount, so that it will not interfere with the table.

I also didn't need to move any ties, which on Ross track would not be best, as the stringer is attached at the bottom below both outer rails.
I am OK with cutting one stringer to insert a spade, but I would not want to cut both stringers on both sides of a tie.
It would, probably not be a huge issue, but I would just rather not try it, seeing that they ties are staked down with actual stakes.

Here are some pics to show how it worked.
The pis showing the Ross Bed is a bit blurry, but it shows the clearance from the end of the ferrule to the bottom of the bed.