Skip to main content

I could use some advice with a power problem on my three rail Lionel layout.  When I first built the initial phase of my layout, I was using my dad’s 1950s KW transformer to provide all of the power.  It died. I couldn’t afford a ZW-C at the time, so I picked up a used MTH Z4000.  As the layout grew to 11’ X 9’, the z400 couldn’t provide power for the track and all of my accessories, so I picked up a cheaper small mth transformer for accessories.  I was doing fine until now.  I just added another 8’ X 4’ extension.  All of my engines and switches are conventional control.  I have roughly five power connections locations on the entire layout.  I also have train yard that has three sidings.  I use toggle switches to power off and on to these three siding that each have their own power feed.  The main layout is 95% fastrak including the switches.  The latest extension is all tube track including the switches that may dad had which was in good shape.  Everything on the main layout works great.  However, the old O22 switches on the windows extension barely move.   The cart platform operates fine.  However, the cattle car doesn’t have enough power to open its doors.  I could use some advice.  Thanks.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • F9F59357-3D8C-47ED-9132-8E7F5034D562
  • BD7DE03C-A84C-4EDA-8E57-E3752BF3CA85
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Maybe get a cheap digital multi meter (DMM), possibly Harbor Freight, and see if you can get some measurements. Look for voltage drops, high resistances, or poor connections.

If I remember correctly, you have the option to power those old Lionel O22 switches with a "fixed voltage plug".

Another option is an AC clamp meter, it adds in measuring current.

Five power connections on a 19x13 foot layout may not be enough to power your track properly.  Are you using the Star or BUSS method?

A Z4000 should be plenty of power with power to spare.  Wire size is just as important as connections.  It was suggested I used 12g wire for my BUSS with 16g track feeders on my 15X33 foot layout.  I used 10g BUSS with 14g feeders to be certain track was getting plenty of power.   

I have at least 12 connections per loop (I have 2 loops).  Every siding and yard has its own connection with a power switch.  Power for track switch machines are done with accessory power and not track power.  

My one Z-4000 powers all my track, accessories and lighting.

As others describe, double check all of that prior to plunking down $750 for a new power system.

Good Luck... You can do it.

Ron

 

Thanks again for the feedback.  I will definitely check for high resistance areas and add a few more power drops.  A friend suggested that I get my Lionel KW fixed.  He thinks that it probably has a bad internal breaker or ceramic rollers on the control arms.   He then suggested tying the two transformer grounds together in order to phase them.  He then suggested moving all my accessories off of the z4000 onto the KW.   I was wondering whether any issues would pop up with an old KW (simple old transformer) and modern z4000 transformer with control board that probably has a chopper circuit.  Any thoughts?

Ron.  My initial section is kind of a Star.  I ran 16 AWG feeders to terminal strip.  I then ran out to five points on the main loop from the terminal strip.  On the 8ft long addition, I ran two 16 AWG wires from the terminal strip down the entire length of the addition.  I then used 3M crimp on connectors to connect power drops to the 16 AWG buss wires to four points on the eight foot addition.  Three of them have toggle switches that allow me to turn off power to three sidings.    I will up look at increasing the feeder wire sizes.  I was also already thinking about switching the main layout to a bus design instead of a star.

NKPFan1:  Know I am joining the discussion somewhat late, but I had a similar problem on my layout.  The suggestion that you use the fixed voltage plug on the 022 switches is what solved my problem.  The older switches just didn't seem to get enough voltage from the track plus in operation you had to raise the track voltage so high to get them to switch that the train had to be in neutral (e-unit neutral) for it not to jump out.  I wired mine to one of the secondary rheostats on my old ZW and set the voltage at about 12-14 volts and leave it.  The 022's seem to like that and switch reliably even when triggered by the non-derailing feature.  

One other thing, make sure that you have a "common" ground.  if you have several ground connections that are not connected to each other the voltage can float between them sometimes messing up the logic.  Not a common (pardon the pun) problem but possible if your wiring gets complex. 

Happy New Year.

Don

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×