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I've built dozens of buildings but have always used hand tools. Have been considering a power cutting tool but frankly I'm not clear on the benefits and differences between a table saw, a chop saw and a band saw. I've seen all on Micro-mark, but am still somewhat confused if I had to choose one. can you guys chime in with some advice as what they're best used for and if you could only buy one, which would you choose? Many thanks. 

 

jerrman

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Well although not a Micromark item, I make frequent use of my old cast iron Craftsman table saw including ripping many boards to use in my scratchbuilds. I can and do many careful cuts of multiple pieces when doing repetitive items such as cutting corbels from moulding strips as an example. This is an invaluable saw and I wouldn't be without it.

 

Bob

Actually, all three of the power saws you mention, are really good at one or two things, but not great for everything.

 

For example, the chop/cut-off/miter saw, whatever you want to call it is great for cutting nice square ends or perfect angle cuts, but depending on the size of the saw, you are limted to the width of the piece you can cut. Table saws are great for ripping long lengths into specific sizes, and will handle large pieces of stock. A Band saw is probably the most versatile when it comes to cutting the small pieces we use in the model business.

 

Personally, if I could only have one, I think I would go with the chop/miter saw. This saw will cut very specific lengths, and angle cuts for the narrow width stuff, and will cut a perfectly square end very easily. This saw is also invaluable around the house, especially for any projects that require trimming. (doors/windows/baseboards etc.) I actually have 2 of them, of which neither is really a "High End" model. Kinda' wish I had one that had the laser guide, and a slider, that allows you to cut wider stock. The ones I have will only cut about 6 inch material. Any wider, you have to switch the material around, and cut from the other side, and sometimes it's hard to truly get a nice clean total cut this way.

 

Usually, if you need longer length material ripped to specific sizes, your local lumber yard will have a service where they will cut it for you. Personally, although I have a table saw and do use it on occasion, I don't particularly like using it if I don't have to.....they scare me a bit. You certainly should have 2 people on hand if you are cutting long lengths of anything.

 

I do also have a small bench top band saw, which I only picked up recently at a yard sale for $50, and have used it although sparingly. They are a nice tool to have, and certainly there are instances where that would be the best choice, although I do feel the chop/miter saw, would be used more frequently.

 

Isn't it funny, in the three answers you get, none vote for the same tool. I guess it will pretty much come down to your own decision, and the one you think you will use the most. Or better yet, save up and get them all. In reality, today, there are a lot of reasonably priced power saws of all types available, unless of course you want "Contractor Grade" equipment, which is probably not necessary for what you will be using it for.

 

REV 

 

 

Last edited by revitupfaster

yes, so far the preferences are one for each type. but, still a lot of helpful info to digest. I've never had much of an issue with the hand cutting for scratcbuilding structures, but I keep wondering if I would broaden out my technique and be able to cut some materials that I'm unable to do by hand either because of size, shape or just to do it faster. i would only use it for modeling. anyone else have any thoughts?

 

jerrman

Strongly suggest you NOT try to "save money by ripping small stripwood with power tools. As enticing as it may seem, it's far cheaper and safer to use x-acto', and razor saws for any perceived asvings. I have a very complete fully equipped woodowrking shop and I speak from experience. Ask Vulcan, Jim Policastro, Martin B., etc.

Originally Posted by dgauss:

Strongly suggest you NOT try to "save money by ripping small stripwood with power tools. As enticing as it may seem, it's far cheaper and safer to use x-acto', and razor saws for any perceived asvings. I have a very complete fully equipped woodowrking shop and I speak from experience. Ask Vulcan, Jim Policastro, Martin B., etc.

not sure I get what you are telling me ( if in fact, you're directing the response to me and not one of the other guys who responded to my question). I wasn't really wondering about "saving money with power tools" but that if I were to buy one (and only one) which would be preferable and what functions would it serve best. so many of you seem to have them, I started feel I'm missing something in terms of what i could be doing and the level of my modeling skills. i'm not interested in power tools for building bench work or other major tasks but those tools thaat seem to be designed for modeling and other small benchtop projects. thanks.

 

jerrman

All three have their strengths and have some overlap, and each can do some things that the other 2 cannot.  It really comes down to what kind of uses and projects you think you might be doing frequently and/or most often.

 

I have a 12" bandsaw that I use a bit for cutting some wood for model building - mainly cut off and few ripping operations.  Most of the wood that I use for model building is already O scale or dimensional that I can use it directly - I've ripped wood to use in building, but it's something I don't bother with these days unless really necessary.  Of the three, this one permits cutting fairly complex curves and with a bevel at the same time - think roadbed from homasote..... So, useful for ripping and cut-off, and curves and with bevels up to 45 degrees

 

I don't have a table saw and for a few select uses I wish I did.  I do have a 10" radial arm saw which I think may be the most dangerous power tool about other than my chainsaw.  Some of the things I've used it for scare me now looking back - milling freight car roof and dadoing bolster strips......  But, like a table saw, I can put a dado blade in or even router cutters into the radial.  I "borrowed" the 12" table saw at work to rip a section out the center of some Northeastern reefer roof sections - not sure I would try it on the radial saw; could do it.  Pretty sure that I could not get it as perfectly done with the bandsaw, but I could do it adequately.  You can cut circles on a table saw, but an "s" curve will take a bandsaw.

 

I've never needed a chop saw although the next time I do a complicated patterned hardwood floor in my house, I'll get one if only to save me from going up & down the steps to the radial saw; that last floor just about wore my knees out custom cutting every board.  On thing, it seems to me that ripping a length of anything would be difficult with a chop saw.

Martin, thanks for the detailed and informative response. You may have hit a nerve when you mentioned a band saw for curved roadbeds, as it reminded me that I will need to do curved roads and streets and maybe the band saw will do the job properly. I'll forego the radial arm saw as strangely I've grown accustomed to my fingers and hands. thanks, again.

 

jerrman

 I do have a 10" radial arm saw which I think may be the most dangerous power tool about other than my chainsaw.  Some of the things I've used it for scare me now looking back

 

 

 

 The last sentence says it all, it is how you  use the tool, not the tool itself that is/was dangerous. The Radial Arm Saw(RAS) is one of, if not THE most versatile tools in a shop. I LOVE my RAS, and if I could only afford, or have room for ONE tool, the RAS would win hands down over a table or miter saw, but those are also nice to have, and I'm not giving them up willingly

 

 I think that the OP, was actually asking about small tools, such as what Micro-Mark offers for small scale modeling uses, not full size shop tools, Unfortunately I can't offer any advice from personal experience with the small tools.

 

 

Doug

Jerrman,

 

 I have used a Radial Arm Saw and even a Chainsaw for MANY years, I still have Two Arms, Two Legs, Ten Fingers and Ten Toes, use either tool properly and it is not difficult to keep all original body parts for a full lifetime. A Bandsaw, Tablesaw or Mitersaw are all as capable of removing appendages from the unwary as a Radial Arm Saw is.

 

 There is a system for Tablesaws called Safe-Stop, or something similar that is absolutely amazing, using a low voltage current through the tool, it senses when flesh(or a Hot Dog) comes in contact with the blade. When an unintended contact is made, the system slams an aluminum block into the blade stopping it(and destroying it, as well) in a fraction of a second, the slight injury that usually results is of the Band-Aid nature, NOT sutures or dismemberment type. The system is not cheap, but keep just one finger where it belongs, and it will seem a very small investment.

 

 

Doug

Hummmm.....

An issue not yet mentioned is the tool condition or accuracy if used and the quality or accuracy if new.

 

A sloppy fit anything whether new or used can be a dangerous headache.  

 

If you are going to be in a building mode for a while I would not aim for just one power tool.  Maybe one every  month or so but not just one forever.

 

The less skilled or experienced one is the more of a tool assortment that person would need IMO. 

 

When you push a tool beyond it's intended / principle use accidents can happen more easily.

 

Maybe try a question something like" I want to buy these three tools over a period of time, What priority would someone suggest to consider?" 

 

Just an idea.

 

But what ever you do keep the blades sharp and go slow.

 

Protect your eyes, lungs and ears. tt

 

I was about to make the same point as Charlie.  The only time I really use shop tools is when I need to make a large number of identical items, such as trestle bents and such. (If I had to pick one, it would be a band saw, on the basis of flexibility). Even then, making a jig and using hand tools would often do almost as well.  More often, hand-held power tools are more than adequate. For example, a saber saw is far better IMO for cutting track bed from homasote than any shop tool would be:

 

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I keep this picture around to show what can happen with a table saw if you are not careful.  DJ is a skilled mechanic with 20 plus years as a finish carpenter. The saw kicked this piece back hitting DJ in the stomach, no harm done.

 

My youngest daughter wanted to install a laminate floor by herself.  My best instruction to her was something my father told me many years ago. "No machine has any respect for a man/women". Doing basic cutting, if you are uncomfortable with the hold then don't cut it.

 

The only two items I purchased in addition to my "make a living tools" were a 9" band saw and a disk/belt bench sander.   Most used is the sander.

 

 I'm comfortable with those pretty hands using either tool. 

 

Working my way through two Pinewood Derbies with my grandson, basic strength, hand eye co-ordination, and some common sence need to be learn at a young age or any age.  Supervision is a must. The third and last Pinewood Derby will be this winter.  Micah has done a good bit more each year, starting with just sanding a lot with a sanding block. There is a lot to be learn when you are 10/11 years old. 

 

Even at my age, I practice a good bit before I work on the final project. If you don't use these tools every day there is always a learning curve when you start them up again.    

Last edited by Mike CT
Originally Posted by Mike CT:

The only two items I purchased in addition to my "make a living tools" were a 9" band saw and a disk/belt bench sander.   Most used is the sander.

 

 

 I'm comfortable with those pretty hands using either tool.    


I had a thought about mentioning a sander -- I probably use my 4" belt sander more than the rest of the large power tools.

 

Hand tools - good for the majority of applications. We could go on forever about brands, sizes, etc.  I got the impression from the OP that he was looking about for something beyond hand tools; they will do the job, but I'm still kind of partial to a band saw for cutting homasote given curves & bevels can be done easily and when I did this for myself I found it to be the most convenient with minimal dust generated; sort of polished the cut surface, too.

 

Radial saw - been using all power tools for many decades now and it's the only one I have where the blade can move towards me of its on volition which is why it's the one I take the most care when using it.  Last time I checked the table saw and band saw just throw wood at me and the blade generally stays on location - ok, band saw blades do break or pop off,

 

Being very close to ambidextrous is exceedingly useful!  I go to left-handed when using the radial saw.

jerrman:

I have had a complete wood shop long before I started building stuff for model railroad layouts. I find I go to my table saw a lot more often than any other tool to cut plastic. In using all the machines I found the chop saw not really good for cutting thin plastic despite getting the best blade I could. I think it has to do with lowering the blade onto the plastic rather than slicing through it as on a table saw. You can get a sliding compound miter saw that acts like a table saw but I doubt it is the version Micromark sells. WRT a bandsaw I use it only to cut curves and circles. It is probably my set up technique or my fence system but I never get a straight cut on a long piece of plastic with it. The blade likes to wander around a lot.

I made a cross cut sled for my table saw that acts as a zero tolerance throat plate so the plastic won't crack or chip on the bottom. I use only an carbide tip 80 tooth blade (minimum number of teeth - 90 , 95 tooth would be better). For long pieces I use my fence. When cutting really thin plastic 30 mils or less I try to stay on the sled as much as possible. The thin stuff like to creep underneath the saw fence. If I have to I will attach an aux fence that sits on the table better.

Bottom line my vote is for the table saw. If you plan on cutting a lot of circles or curvy stuff then think about the band saw.

Joe

Jerrman,

 

I think you know in your heart you are already doing just fine.

 

I bought a Dremel once because the price was right.  I never used it for any of my hobby stuff.

 

Hand tools seem to be all that I require.

 

Sometimes while building a traincar, I wish I had a small hobbystyle drill press for it's ability to make good right angle holes, and that I need to make more than 80 of them.

 

There is something therapeutic about a pinvise though, and I have yet to upgrade.

 

But that might just be me,

 

-rrick

Originally Posted by rrick:

I bought a Dremel once because the price was right.  I never used it for any of my hobby stuff.

Well, that is just going one step too far.   

 

I couldn't live without my Dremel (I once knew a guy who cut a washing machine in half using Dremel cut-off disks).

 

I've always though that if I were limited to owning only two tools, one would be a Vise Grip and the other would be a Dremel Tool. 

 

Cheers,

you all are a great help, thank you. 

 

mike ct, thanks for the pictures. that was helpful. 

 

martin, u r right, in the op I was talking about something other than hand tools. I don't use any power tool other than the occasional drill for modeling. just lots and lots of #11 and other exacto blades. I brought up micro-mark because they have benchtop power tools specifically made for hobbyists, not serious woodworkers, furniture makers, etc.

 

joe, the table saw was my original instinct, although the band saw for curved roads and streets might make sense.

 

rick, u r right. i am doing fine, although I keep having the feeling I'm missing something (admitedly, it may be like the feeling I had about airbrushing, and I've yet to use the one I have as I get a totally realistic effect with hand painting and spray cans and IA/chalks -- sort of the SIRTmethodology I think). there still may be some upside to some hand held power tool if not the benchtop version.

 

thnks again everyone. 

 

jerrman

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