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Hi, 

I recently bought my grandson an MTH Rail King 262 Crossing Gate.  He doesn't own a model train set, but he loves railroad crossings.  I'd like to wire it up to a switch so that he can activate it whenever he wants.  Ideally, the switch would be wired up to a simple battery (or battery pack).  Tonight, to test it out, I took a 9 volt battery and wired the positive of the battery to the Powered terminal on the bottom of the Gate, and the negative of the battery to the Common terminal on the bottom of the Gate.  The gate activated and the arm swung down.  

The problem I'm having is that the lights don't light up.  I took out the bulb of one of the lights and wired it up to the 9v battery and it does go on, so the bulbs themselves do work and can be individually powered from a 9v.  However, when I wire the 9v to the Crossing, they don't light up.  

So, in summary, I can get the gate to go up and down with a 9v wired to Power and Ground on the gate, however, the lights don't work.  What is the problem?  How can I get the lights to go on?  Is the crossing defective and that's why the lights don't work?  If not, how can I wire it up to work completely from a battery?  

Thank you for your help.  Any help would be appreciated by me and my grandson!

Last edited by ngn
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Just to give you more info.  Normally, the gate is supposed to be wired through a T.A.D as follows:  

--Positive on the lock-On is wired to Common on the TAD

--(NO) on the TAD is wired to Powered on the gate.  

--Common on the lock-On is wired to Ground on the gate

So, it looks like Positive on the lock-On is wired to Powered on the gate and Common on the lock-On is wired to ground on the Gate.  

Last edited by ngn

I'm not the electrical expert that Gunrunnerjohn is, but I think you're asking a lot from a 9-volt battery....even a fresh one.

The solenoid-actuated arm will draw a fair amount of power, but the flasher circuit + bulbs (I'm assuming yet filament-type, not LED) added on will tax the power of a common 9v battery....IMHO.

Maybe others can chime in on this.  I'd suspect polarity is less the problem than adequacy of power.

If so, a properly sized 'wall wart' AC (or DC?) transformer with actuation button/switch should do the job in this situation.

FWIW, of course...

KD

Last edited by dkdkrd

Yes, the bulbs are filament, not LED.

That could be it: The solenoid is pulling most of output from the battery, leaving little for the lights.  Would this be a voltage issue?  What voltage do I need from the battery?  If this is an amperage issue, I would think that the battery would just be overtaxed but could still light it up.  I could try it in complete dark to see if the lights are dim but working.  It really looks like no power is getting to them though, as the room wasn't very bright.    

One other piece of information.  When I took out the bulb, I could just barely make out an imprint on them that looked like 18v 2a.  A 9v still powered it though on its own.  There are two lights in the unit plus the solenoid though.  How do I determine how much power I need?

Last edited by ngn

I would be up for a plug-in transformer, but I'm concerned about safety.  Would it be safe to just wire up a wall wart transformer with bare exposed leads like that?  If it's safe, then what kind of transformer would I need?

Then again, battery operated would be nice because of its portability.  He would like to use it with his lego trains and wooden brio sets which would require moving it all about.  My idea was to mount everything (gate and battery power supply) to a large lego platform so that it could be moved about.

Last edited by ngn

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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