Problem with non derailing function on Ross switch

First off, which switch machine are you using?  The non-derailing function is really provided by the switch machine.  The actual switch just supplies the insulated rail section to trigger the action.

John, Using DZ1000. All I am doing, is checking the continuity of my wiring at this point. Using a car's wheels should create a path from rail to rail for the common side of the circuit to engage the switch machine just as if you pressed the controller button. I'm using a multi meter in place of the switch machine to check for a completed circuit when the wheels are on the rails. The wheels must be creating the high resistance reading I'm seeing.

I guess I need to actually wire in a switch machine, power up the circuit to test my wiring.

Note also that Ross does not recommend using the rails on the switch for triggering non-derail switching. They recommend isolating a rail adjacent to the switch and opposite the rail wired to common.

One thing to watch for with switches and common. Depending on which rail is wired to common going into the switch will affect the common on the other side. For instance, if you wire common to the straight through rail of an 072, you will still have common on the straight through section but the diverging track will not have a connection to common. Common needs to be wired to the track on the diverging side even though the power rail does have continuity.

I have Ross switches with gargraves track. I solder the green and yellow wires from dz switch machine to the inside frog legs of switch. Than cut or insulate the gargraves inside rail right before switch.

@turkey_hollow_rr posted:

Note also that Ross does not recommend using the rails on the switch for triggering non-derail switching. They recommend isolating a rail adjacent to the switch and opposite the rail wired to common.

First time I ever heard this, where did you come across this advice?  FWIW, the rail on the switch is fairly short, so you may need to have additional length for reliable triggering, so it kinda' makes sense.

I see that Z-Stuff seems to think the switch rails are fine for the non-derail...  See attached document for the DZ-1000.

DZ1000 12-20-02 w-nonderail.pdf

I use dz2500’s I don’t cut or isolate the switch frog legs, I cut inside rail of track three or four inches before switch. Works perfectly, no matter how fast the train is going.

Well, for Ross switches, those switch legs are already isolated, so all you have to do is wire to them.  However, I did find as you did, it's really beneficial to have a longer sense rail for the non-derailing function to insure 100% reliability.

Thanks for your input GRJ👍

Thanks guys for all your input. I figured out the problem.....ME! Since this switch needs to be wired as a "stand alone" section, I had to have it wired with drops for power, common and the two trigger wires for non derailing. I had the common wired wrong. I  wired both outside rails together and now all is well. Thanks again. Tim

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

First time I ever heard this, where did you come across this advice?  FWIW, the rail on the switch is fairly short, so you may need to have additional length for reliable triggering, so it kinda' makes sense.

I see that Z-Stuff seems to think the switch rails are fine for the non-derail...  See attached document for the DZ-1000.

DZ1000 12-20-02 w-nonderail.pdf

I have nothing to back it up but I believe it is because those rails can move and short at the frog. That's not to say people haven't gotten that to work. I want the isolated rail further away from the switch.

There is a slight difference with the diagram posted on Ross's site: non-derailing instructions I believe the inclusion of what looks like the ends of the switch rails and the separate 3" rails is Steve's attempt to explain how he recommends to do the isolation. I have not verified this myself with Ross but it has come up in other situations.

FWIW, someone here some time back was troubleshooting the non-derailing and those two short rails were shorted together with a staple, so that kinda' makes sense.

GRJ is correct with the spikes touching both rails creating switch chatter when activated. Just remove the problem spike and all is fine. I’ve had to do this with many Ross switches, therefore I now insulate the rail ahead of the switch rail.