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I am running a UP1291  rs-3 i have sound and lights but my DCS remote won't find the engine. When it does find it, it doesen't find it correctly meaning no name. it then won't let me reset to factory it keeps goving me
CHECK TRACK and Engine error.
I opened it up to find at some point in its life it must have derailed and burned the lead wires from the center rail contactor.
i fixed the wires and tried again to no avail. where should I look next.
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I am not using mth transformer im using lionel zw and an MRC for my layout. I am running dcs newest version. remote batteries brand new and battery in engine giving 9v and change , its an 8.4v battery. I haven't tried conventional mode. but when the dcs finds it incorrectly i can run the engine with remote but get error messages.

If there was an over current at one point, there are inductors on the board that can become damaged from the heat of the overload.  The inductance changes and that kills the DCS signal.

 

You can try cleaning wheels and pickups, replace the wire and try again.  The problem is many of those inductors where custom made for that board, so they are not available.  G

When it does find it, it doesn't find it correctly meaning no name.

I have recently encountered this when trying to add a new MTH engine.  The first time the engine was on the far side of the layout.  The furthest from the TIU.  It added an engine to the address but is did not have a name.  I deleted it, move the engine to the track closest to the TIU and tried again.  This time it added all of the nomenclature information.

 

I thought that was strange. 

Ron

 

hi could i get some of the 5 volt boards, i'm trying to get a learning experience on repairing or understanding how the boards work, any help would be appreciated Alan
also do you know i have a batum 6-8-6 steam engine the 5 volt board blew, you had talked to me about it, do you know if a 3 volt board will work in the same engine it had a 5 volt proto board in it,i want to put a 3 volt ps 2 board in the same engine, the smoke unit smoke resisters are already in parallel for a reading of 8.99 ohms,i just don't want to take a chance and blow a brand new 3 volt board.100 percent of protection is always worth a pound of cure!thanks for any info you can give. Alan  
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I'm not buying the board, I'm offering you a couple of the 5V boards so you can scavenge parts.

 

let me know the shipping cost to 273 harding hwy pittsgrove new jersey 08318 and ill be glad to send you the money for shipping, thanks Alan mancus    Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I have dead 5V boards, I'll send you a couple for the price of shipping.  If you need parts that aren't already dead, they're the best option.

 

 

The differences between 3V boards and 5V boards, other than the obvious visual appearance like connector locations is as follows.

 

  • The connectors are in different relative positions, and sometimes that requires extending the wiring harness to certain connectors.
  • The boards have a different mounting scheme, the 3V board is in a plastic carrier and the heatsink for the bridge rectifier is a different design.
  • The 3V board obviously uses a different battery harness with a different charging plug and different battery connector.
  • The 3V board requires a 4 ohm speaker vs. the 16 ohm speaker for the 5V boards.

 

The overall size of the two board packages is very similar.  There are some locomotives that due to the different mounting, it's pretty difficult to put the 3V board in place of the 5V board, and you may have to get creative about mounting the 3V board.  So far, I haven't had to resort to mounting the 3V board in the tender if the original is in the locomotive.

 

 

 

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