I started asking this in my Pushbutton Turnout post, but I figured it'd be better for future searches to separate them.
Can I replace the stock controller that comes with the Operational Track 40-1008 with a pushbutton or toggle switch?
Note: I will only be using the uncouple action of the track, not the unload (I'll never need that part)
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A DPDT (on)-off-(on) switch can be used to replace the bulky controller. 6019 illustrated, RCS/UCS, GarGraves/Ross, RealTrax similar.
Thanks Rob, I shouldn't have posted in my other post too, just thought this may be helpful for others with the same questions.
So is the the image at the bottom of the diagram you provided, the DPDT? If I plan on only using one function of the track, will a DPDT actually be needed?
A DPST Off-(On) can be used for each unload/uncouple function. In the diagram, you will only need the top half of the switch for unload, the bottom half for uncouple.
If you really only need it for uncouple, you can get away with a SPST Off-(On) with the center two wires together on one switch terminal & power on the other. If you have ZERO sliding shoe/electric couplers, you can use a SPST Off-(On) with the second and fourth wires to the switch terminals. This will energize just the magnet and the left control rail(s).
I understand wiring diagrams, but the one above is sort of confusing me. Also, when you say top half/bottom half, are you talking about the top/bottom of the diagram, or of the switch (would could be left/right side?)
Just inside the red box. Three terminals on the left, three on the right, toggle/slide up & down, as viewed from the bottom. Sorry the numbers aren't big enough, click on the diagram for a bigger view.
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My Realtrax uncoupling track section doesn't match the wiring diagram shown above. I suggest you just flip your section over and locate the 2-wires of the uncoupling coil - the purple and yellow connections in the photo below. Follow the connections to the screw-terminals. As shown, the purple connection is physically connected to the outer rail. So you get this connection for "free" since the outer rail is connected already to your Accessory Power black/common somewhere else on your layout. Then all you need to do is switch in your Accessory Power to the Yellow terminal to fire the coil.
If you also want to control the uncoupler via the TIU, run 2 wires (drawn Red and Yellow) to an Accessory Port as shown. So like your turnouts, you can now activate your uncoupler from the manual switch or the DCS remote. If you do choose to activate via the DCS remote you must be mindful to only use the DCS remote's "ACT" button which only applies power as long as the button is held down. That is, the AIU Accessory Ports can behave as a OFF-ON or OFF-(ON) switch; clearly you want the latter because the former would apply power "forever" and burn out the coil.
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Thanks for the clarification, Rob.
Stan,
Mine looks exactly like yours. I disconnected all of the wires from the controller and just took a wire and connect one end to the center rail (just a test for power) and the other to the 2nd screw and success. With that, will this switch work for me?
http://www.allelectronics.com/...ed-pushbutton/1.html
I'd be happier with the following OFF-(ON) from same guys you are apparently getting the SPDT toggle from:
It's even less expensive! And they at least have the "courtesy" of telling you it's rated at 3 Amps whereas the All part says, "Ideal for most low current projects." What does low current mean?!
I understand you attached to track power (center-rail) just as a test? You will actually run the uncoupler from Accessory Voltage like your turnouts?
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I ordered the push buttons and toggles from the place that you provided, Stan.
Yes, I will be using a secondary power source for the turnouts and uncouplers. I'm hoping to use an old KW.
Cool. Let us know all's well when you get it together!
I realize you're only after the uncoupler portion so a pushbutton is all you need. But for guys that want to replace the arguably bulky stock old-school-style controller, if you dis-assemble the controller there's an internal (ON)-OFF-(ON) toggle switch similar to what you'd probably use in its place! So you can pull out the switch and mount it on your control panel. Obviously you may need to extend wire lengths but that shouldn't be hard to figure out.