putting led's lights in older trains?

I doubt it's the current draw of the LED's.

One thing you fail to mention is the current limiting resistor, not to mention the diode to prevent reverse voltage from cooking the LED.  You can't just replace an incandescent bulb with an LED without considering the source of the power to the LED.

I'd remove the current wiring NOW and properly wire the LED's!

OK, maybe we need details on exactly what you're using, are these some you put together, or something like the Evan's Designs LED's?

Since they have a 470 ohm resistor, unless you connected them to someplace that really wasn't proper, I can't imagine how they'd impact the sound!

Is your locomotive a conventional model or command/control?  Did it have directional lights, or were they always on?  If they're always on with track power, you may want to wire them directly to the track pickups.

You could use something like the Evan's Design LED's that have the resistors and rectifier already installed, that way you just find the appropriate voltage source and wire them in.

The lead that came loose sounds like a prime candidate.  What electronics is in this, is it RailSounds?  Conventional or TMCC?

Josey,
You still runnin that QSI board?
The LED's shouldn't draw hardly any current . Like we talked about before . Your probably gonna have to replace those old boards to get that S1 to work like you want it to.
You can use just an LED and a resistor in your buildings if you power it with DC but with AC that you have to use running your engines you have to use a resistor AND a diode because of something called reverse voltage and it will burn out your LED if you don't use the diode.
You should have attached your LED hot and common to your track pick ups NOT your battery output.
You best bet is to buy a couple LED's from a bunch called Evans Designs. They're a sponsor here on the forum and sell LED's pre wired with the diode and are good for 18 volts. Always hook those things to track power unless your using a TMCC or DCS board

Here's what you need

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-212.html

David

Here is a headlamp circuit here

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowThread?id=619&categoryId=

See my blog for other circuits

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/Bl...tegoryMain?catId=426

An LED headlamp would use at most 1/2 watt,most of that power would be used by the resistor protecting it.

Dale H

Im realy think its the board..think this might be the qsi 3000 system.. it dont clink or clank..sounds like air pump relessing then you change directons..everyone of my led's lights have a 470ohm resistor on them..i have a pack of pre wire blueish headlights,but didnt realy like them on this train.. all of my led are 5mm headlight,maker light cablight and fire box light... and thanks guys..I did get my hands on a mth proto 1.0 out of a premirer challenger..debaiting on using it or not..All I know is I want somthing that sound like Lional S1..that what Im after,I hope...somthing thats not to hard to wire up..wiring isnt my fortay.. even on real cars.. I'd hated it..unless I'd had diragram then I wouldnt be for furstrated..I really love this 3rd rail S1.. love the unstirted S1 better..looks more meaner..My grandpa would crap his pants if he saw my trains if he was still alive..he got me into model trains bigtime..What transfoemer are you guys using.?? maybe I should switch that too.. I got a lional cw80.. was told by QSI that is to small to operate the train and sound system.. is that true??

gunner this is a old qsi think its the 3000 series? this is  S1  train I would like to convert to maybe TMCC if I can get that S1 sound board or chip from Lional?? this was made in 1999..this is number 37 out of 75 that 3rd rail made..

Well, you won't get the S1 sounds from Lionel, they don't offer them for sale.  As I said, there are a very limited number of sounds available for retrofit sales.

The battery lead coming loose on the QSI sound setup sounds like why the sounds don't work.

I'm not much of a fan of the CW-80, not only is is marginal in size, but it's not compatible with all of the modern electronics.  I've seen several manuals that say specifically NOT to use the CW-80.

what transformer should i get? z750 or z750 inforred remote system or what else?

I would NOT recommend the Z750 with the infrared remote.  That has problems with many locomotives with electronic reverse boards.  Besides, the Z750 has a similar power output as the CW-80, you're not going anywhere with that configuration.

If you're looking for something reasonably priced, the Lionel KW is the sweet spot for watts per dollar in PW transformers. 

Josey as john said the KW is a good buy. I have a MRC dual and a MTH Z-4000.
The Z is pricey but the MRC was pretty reasonable at $235.
I have a CW-80 and the only thing it's good for is keepin your bass boat from moving around while your fishing. Hunk-O-Junk.

sadly your not going to find a replacement board with the S-1 sounds that is, not unless you send your engine to the guy at the scaled tin rail.
He's gonna be the only one that can fix what you have.
David

i did resolder it backon.. maybe it not making contac..?at low speeds the sound and train cuts on and off..maybe I sound make a youtube video and let you guys see and hear it for your self to determend what you guys think.. yes I'd talk to that guy from tin scale.. going to email pics of that board to see what I got..I did see a video of a Q1 from 3rd rail it even got brake squeel..wonder what this thing really got for sound?heres the board thats on my S1.

then how to you run accerrys to your sounds? you have only whisel and direction botton on them..do you use a QSI sound box that conects to your transformer?

Personally, I run command/control, so that's a moot point.  I have full control of multiple locomotives from the hand-held controller.

A modern tranfromer like the MRC previously mentioned, will have the whistle and bell buttons.  For a PW transformer, you need a sound activation button to add the bell control.

command/control? who makes that? lional?  Also Id took the boards out of my S! to look at them.. top board was made in 1994 mid was made in 1991!that the board were the 9volts is conected too..bottom board/revers unit,no date on it..gunnerjohn,question.. since this is a qsi board,will my S1 chip work on a MTH proto sound & board setup in my S1?To me this proubley would need a update,or close to one system.

Command/control, aka TMCC/Legacy or MTH DCS.

The boards you have sound like MTH ProtoSound 1 boards already. 

after I have gave the guy from tin rail the boards numbers I have a QSI 2 sound system..question does the proto sound makes clinks and clanks?  I havent had one for a long time and cant remember..The issue im having with mine is when you crank up the volume in my trains it acts up.. want to stop and go if the throtle is on low speed/voltage..but if i turned the volume down to low close to 1/8 out form off it doesnt acted up..do you think i have a volume control issue? or what do you think?..the second board beside my tender is a new proto 1 from a C&NW H4 Hudson..guy is converting his to 2rail.. also just got a another proto 1 from a premirer challenger..has all the wires..guys went to proto 2.0.. now im on a budget.. just got laid off from work..im upset too.if I need help to install one of these sound systems? can somebody show me the wire diragram please..

I think some close-up pictures of the boards would help identify them.  Also, any part numbers on the boards would be useful.

Here is a rough sketch of typical MTH PS-1 steam wiring.

(Sorry its not glitzy and fancy.)

The board in your tender does not look like typical PS-1.

It must be a different QSI system.

You may be able to get a wiring diagram for it online.

You may want to consider swapping over to the PS-1 challenger board that you have.

Then the wiring diagram below will apply.

That should eliminate the problem you are having with the sounds cutting out.

The sounds chip wont be right for your S1, but you may be able to get the correct chip from MTH. I beleive they still stock PS-1 sound chips.

The SI chip from your original board may work in the PS-1 board. Might be worth a try.

Rod