Guys a question, do you think I Should or not put tmcc in to a pair of old Lionel F7s. I know there will be those out there who think it might ruin the collectability but I really don't care about that. I am not planning on selling them and after I am gone it won't matter to me anyway. just thinking about it and just wanted to get some input from some of you more expert guys. Thanks
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I installed a ERR AC Commander into a set I had repainted into the ConRail scheme. I did this about 10 years ago and love it, even have the coupler hooked up to fire with the remote. You will have to drill a small hole in the fuel tank to mount heat sink/bracket, I used a piece of angled aluminum about 1/8 inch thick and tapped the hole to line up with the ERR screw attachment..
Marty
There are reasons to do something like this - you might be attached to the engines, for one - but they won't run very well, probably, compared to modern DC-motor pieces. You know that, I'm sure, but maybe put the time and money into something more responsive...?
Do you mean f3's? Lionel f7 were only a recent model and all of them had tmcc installed.
Yeah your right I did mean F3s I guess I had f7s on the mind . anyway just a thought.
I had TMCC added to my Union Pacific F3's from the early 1980's. Been very happy with them. True, no cruise control so they don't compare to more modern locomotives, but TMCC has extended their useful life.
I added TMCC to my Lionel 2383 Santa FE F3 about 10 years ago. They run great and no problems.
They're yours...do what you wish
GeoPeaks posted:Guys a question, do you think I Should or not put tmcc in to a pair of old Lionel F7s. I know there will be those out there who think it might ruin the collectability but I really don't care about that. I am not planning on selling them and after I am gone it won't matter to me anyway. just thinking about it and just wanted to get some input from some of you more expert guys. Thanks
really only you can answer your question. can you do the work yourself? or do you need to pay someone to do it for you?
command control in my opinion is way better then conventional running.
With ERR it is not that difficult to do, and well worth the results....... IMHO........
I have converted many conventional and PS1 to ERR TMCC... glad I did on every one.
Jesse TCA
Get Timko replacement dc motors and go with cruise commander. I've done two with great results.
Romiller
Lionel made AC engine with TMCC so yes it can be done and ERR has the parts you need. If you like running PW and AC motor engine you will be fine with TMCC in your PW engines. G
I did several conversions with another method. I bought at the auction site some newer versions of the Lionel F-3s which came factory-equipped with TMCC and RailSounds (these versions also have constant voltage and directional lighting, electrocouplers, finished cabs with crew figures, etc.), and I swapped the shells with the older F-3 shells I wanted to keep and use. I then took the shells that I didn't want from the newer engines, and attached those to the older conventional chassis', and sold those engines.
Swapping the A units is a snap; it only requires the attachment of the TMCC antenna to the roof of the older shell. The B unit with the RailSounds unit and speaker takes a bit more work. I've done this two ways. The newer B units with RS have a circular plastic rim molded inside the roof of the shell, which the speaker bracket attaches to. One method I've used is to cut out a rectangular piece in the top of the newer B unit roof around the rim with a Dremel, and then glue that piece inside the roof of the older B unit I will be using, then re-attach the speaker bracket and speaker. This goes relatively quick, but the newer B unit shell will be unusable after the surgery, of course.
The other method I've used is to find a circular piece of plastic for the rim, cut the bottom of the new rim to fit the inside of the shell (which is curved somewhat), and glue it in place. This also requires cutting and gluing four small plastic pieces spaced around the rim into which the screws are driven to hold the speaker bracket in place. After a little searching, I found a perfect sized circular plastic piece to use for the rim (being same diameter as the speaker) which was a lid on a liquid soap jug sold at a dollar store. Using this method is a little more time-consuming, but preserves the unused B unit shell.
The result is an A-B-A F-3 set with the older shells, but fully equipped with all the features of the latest TMCC/RailSounds-equipped Pullmor F-3s. Incidentally, these sets also have TMCC dummy A units, which have directional lighting and TMCC-controlled electrocouplers.