PW silver 2400 series passenger cars

I have done a few. Stripping is the easy part. I used a combination of liquid laundry detergent (Tide) and Simple Green. It takes two to three days but is safe for plastic.

Testors and Tamiya make a silver that is very close. Tamiya is slightly brighter.

The hard part is relettering. I used a fine brush and filled in the heat stamp but it took many hours to do a 4 car set. I used Floquil solvent paint. Others have used cheap craft store acrylic paint and were able to scrape away the excess. I would try that next time.

I have also tried dry transfers but the set does not line up exactly with the heat stamp. I didn't care for the result.

Pete

Norton, Thank your for the information. You confirmed a few things for me. I feel more comfortable with this project.

Eric, Here are the pics of the completed cars.

Pete

They look great!!! Thank You

Here is a pic showing the lettering offset of both decals and dry transfers. The car is an LCCA modern remake but has the same spacing as the original post war car.

Pete

I think you can get dry transfers for them from J&A Hobbies. Testors 1246 silver is good. Pete, that is some awsum free hand paint work!

Rob

Thanks guys. The paint is Testors 1246. The 2nd row of lettering is from J&A. Dry transfers don't lay well over heat stamping even if the registration was right on which its not. If you could fill and smooth the heat stamping then dry transfers would be fine but that is difficult to do without sanding down the rivet detail.

Pete

It is hard to do, I agree. When I re-did a 2023 silver set I sanded down and filled slightly the heat stamped letters. I used decals, would have used transfers if I had known about them.

Rob

Did you prime the roof and body plastic parts before final paint coat. The Paint is beading up on the bare plastic.

Eric, I didn't have that problem though I washed it with dish soap and water before painting. I didn't use primer, just paint like Lionel did.

After paint stripping:

 Painted:

Pete