Quality Craft Models O Kit 603 Store and Warehouse

Stay with the wood glue for the wood 2 wood joinery; could reinforce corners, too.  Goo & CA when there's end grain involved.

Could stain and/or paint in advance or at various convenient stopping places. Paint the door and windows prior to adding glazing and installation.

I used wood carpenter's glue with 1/4" internal bracing, found at home stores. This last if you don't install interior/lighting. I bashed mine severely into a hide and wool buyer/ ranch supply, but waffled over making it a two story prairie station (if l find another).  For plastic parts l used Testor's plastic glue.  My experience with Ambroid from HO days, was that, over time (years), it no longer holds.

That was one of my first kits when I started building the layout. Found it a show for about $20.00.  I used carpenters wood glue and either a thick CA glue or Walthers Goo to attach the metal window castings. I can’t remember how much cutting was involved. I did add bracing to the inside.
These kits are a great start to learning how to scratch build. Once you build a couple. You will be able to work with bare wood and create your own special structures. Plenty of windows and doors are available from Tichy Train Group.
The only tip I can offer. Is toss the shingles in the trash if they are similar to the ones in my kit. I got half of one side of the roof done and gave up. I tarpapered the rest. Bought an Arttista kneeling figure swinging a hammer. A ladder and made some simulated shingles waiting to go on. The way to go is with one of the many makers of laser cut peel and stick shingles. Just be sitting down though. As the roof may end up costing more than the kit you are building.
If you are interested in old school scratchbuilding. No lasercut walls. Find Al Pugliese trains on You Tube. He’s doing work with Howard Zane a well known HO modeler on building a bunch of buildings for an O scale 3 rail layout. They are built much in the same way as your kit.

Take your time and thoroughly read the instructions.  This will show up in the end as a really nice build.  I use TItebond wood glue for wood to wood bonding. For  white metal pieces I like Loctite Super Gel CA.  Thick enough to even fill small mistakes, before painting.  I usually paint sub- assemblies of walls as they're built.  All my metal castings get paint before assembly.  

Have fun, I love Quality Craft and Gloor Craft Craftsman kits!

Tom, you'll find that you will need that extra time that wood glue gives you so you can position the parts perfectly before they dry.  These are "30 minutes a day for 30 days" type kits. You'll be pleased when you see the finished model.

Dale

Thanks for all the great replies guys...it sounds like I really should stay with the wood glue.  I wanted to use 5 minute epoxy but  wood glue seems to carry the day.  I also like the idea of painting/staining sub-assemblies before final assembly.  I must confess that the 30 minutes a day for 30 days will tax what little patience I have (my wife claims I have none) but I will try to follow that guideline.  I may fudge and work on several sub-assemblies per session.  Hope to start it soon.

tom

I believe you said this kit a a craftsman designer kit. I recommend before any talk of glue to read each page of the instructions thoroughly, twice.  I have assembled a couple of these and I find the instructions are not written clearly. Review any of the drawings which apply to the instructions sequence.  You Will come to a bump in the road, possibly twice. I promise this will payoff in the end.  
Before you go to much trouble at all, in a large open space lay out each numbered piece in an order that works best for you. Refer to the instructions as you lay out the numbered pieces. Become familiar with the pieces and ask, does this look right???You might discover a piece missing and need to contact the designer for a piece or two.  

When the prior step is completed and you find each piece, find the first pieces as referenced in the instructions and assemble in the dry, no glue as yet.

If you are an impatient person, the 30 minutes a day will be a good strategy otherwise you will never complete the kit.  Temper with glue involved will get you stuck.

And now I recommend the Titebond and apply with flat toothpicks.  The little bit of Titebond applied by your toothpick where necessary, Will dry faster.  

If you arrive at the bump road, in the instructions, email your designer with the explicit problem.  Do not say that he’s made an error for you won’t hear from him again😂.

I agree about the roofing in the Kit.☺️

Seth

@tonteetontee

I went to the trouble to write a response to your question about the kit assembly because I wish I had requested recommendations with my first. I painted the structure after completely assembled.

Seth

Thanks Seth...I had reviewed the instructions and drawing as you suggested.  I like the suggestion about the toothpick applicator & minimal glue.  As for contacting the manufacturer in the event of a bump or missing pieces, I'm afraid that window closed decades ago.  The kit was manufactured by an early incarnation of Weaver Model Trains; I believe Bob Weaver's endeavors started with The Quality Craft Models Line.  The kits appears to be complete and unmolested by the previous owner(s).  

Thanks All & Best regards,

Tom