Question on using Splice Connectors

this is what i use easy to add or move wires around 1 to 12  problem with the one you show one time use

That's a good question Mike. I've never seen ones that are stated at just one, or the same, value. 

However, I always thought that the range given was the size wire that either side of the tap could accept - the main wire or the one splicing off from it.

I've used the 14-18 ones and I thought that both openings were the same size in dia., though I did, coincidentally use 14 ga. as my main and 18 g as the spliced wire.

How many of these are you going to need?  If your quantity is low, I have become a huge fan of these Wago lever nuts. I have used them for several different projects ( house wiring, landscape lighting, Train Projects and others). They are reusable, they don't damage the wire (where the splice taps you showed above have a tendency to damage the wire strands), you don't need tools to add or remove a wire, and you can add or remove wires without disconnecting the rest of the circuit (unlike standard twist wire nuts). Available on amazon and many other places. Once you try them out, it's hard to go back to other types.

-Jonny

Mike, I use both the red and blue ones, and love them. The blue ones are for 12 and 14 gauge wire, but will accept smaller sizes like 16 on the branch. If you use the blue ones to join two 12 gauge wires, it takes some serious finesse. I use vice-grips set to the exact thickness of the connector to crush the blade down.

I use epoxy filled butt connectors made for telephone applications on low voltage. I use wire nuts for track voltage. I have also used wiring blocks like this:

c6usa posted:

this is what i use easy to add or move wires around 1 to 12  problem with the one you show one time use

This is will not work in a 1 to 12 application unless you connect all 12 ports together on one side. These are made to splice 1 wire to a wire directly opposite. the 12 rows are not electrically connected.

I've made it work as a buss by adding 11 jumpers to one side.

mjrodg3n88 posted:

When I start wiring my layout and control panel, there will be many places where I need to tap into other wires.  For example, wiring my switches in parallel with my AIU, voltage meters, and LEDs for the control panel.

When searching for splice connectors like these:

I notice there are two different size channels within each one (say a larger buss wire being tapped by a smaller feeder wire).  Are there any where both sides of the connector use the same size wire?  Is this what I should be using?  I know there are T-Tap connectors too, but these seem like they'd be easier.

Thanks.

Indeed, there are many types - Here is a link to the many products made by one reputable manufacturer. 

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/po...3294857497&rt=r3

 These connectors are very good when used as intended, but I suggest you do not cheat on the specs. If the maximum size is given as #14 solid do not try to get away with #14 stranded. If the minimum is #22 do not take a #24 and fold it over a number of times to "fake" a #22. Wiring is a pain. Do it once and do it right!

I would also be careful of cheap ebay/Amazon knockoffs. 

As far as closing them, if you don't have the official tool you can generally get by with a pair of water pump pliers set so the jaws are nearly parallel as the connector is closed.

Thanks guys.

Here is my situation.

I'm running 16 gauge through all of my star wiring to the track blocks and yard tracks.  That part I don't have an issue with as I'm using terminal blocks (I read Barry's book).  

I'm using 20 gauge for my turnout and operations track power (both Realtrax).  Most of my feed tapping will be for the Control Panel LEDs that come after the terminal blocks of these.  I bought hook up wire from Evan Designs (28 gauge).

So I have 16 gauge for DCS (all star wiring, no tapping)
20 gauge for turnouts and operational track
28 gauge for LEDs

I'm not sure which is the best way to tap in or connect these.

George S posted:

c6usa posted:

this is what i use easy to add or move wires around 1 to 12  problem with the one you show one time use

This is will not work in a 1 to 12 application unless you connect all 12 ports together on one side. These are made to splice 1 wire to a wire directly opposite. the 12 rows are not electrically connected.

I've made it work as a buss by adding 11 jumpers to one side.

Yes and there are commercial jumper strips to facilitate tying a number of them together. You can cut them off to any length, 2 to 12 positions or however long you buy them.

I've used many of the red and blue suitcase connectors on my layout. Never had an issue with them and many have been there for 14 years now.

mjrodg3n88 posted:

So I have 16 gauge for DCS (all star wiring, no tapping)
20 gauge for turnouts and operational track
28 gauge for LEDs

I'm not sure which is the best way to tap in or connect these.

I also had a similar situation on my control panel when splicing in the LEDs. 

I personally used a soldering iron and some shrink tubing. I've always soldered where possible as it's cost effective. 

If soldering is an option that may be your best bet. If it's not an option, I still think those Wago lever nuts are The way to go. They can accomadate 28awg down to 12awg (Solid or stranded). You can buy them with 2 up to 5 slots. But as stated, they aren't the cheapest option.

Personally, I prefer the non-permanent selections above. Like the Euro style terminal strips or the Wago nuts. I have all MTH terminal blocks (track power) or the Euro style terminal strips under the layout. As stated above the Euro strips can be cut to length and they have holes for mounting screws and they are also available for different size wires. So far I have just been using the Wagos on the work bench for fiddling with things, but they are pretty handy. Wire nuts are another option which I use here and there for some things.

I have made quite a few changes to my layout in the last 2-1/2 years since it was first powered up and these seem re-usable connectors seem to fit my needs much better. I also spent my working life with terminal strips and they are what I am used to. As they say, it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks!