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I have an O scale layout, with Lionel LW transformer. Have 5, 153 block signals with 153c contactors. Really want to upgrade contactors, they are hard to work with and look bad on the layout. Have read a large number of posts going back years and feel insulated rail and relay are the way to go. I am attracted to the Azatrax MPAPR- 12v DPDT Relay 8a, shown in Stan 2004 post of 1/27/22.  This relay seems to be an economical and easy to install alternative to the contactors. Is the relay the only item needed along with the insulated rail or are there other components needed to control the block signals?  Can it be powered from accessory terminals on the LW?  Are there newer options now available? Thanks

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I have six Azatrax MRAPR 12v DPDT 8a relays on my layout rebuild (not MPAPR...maybe a typo?).  

Four of the relays control two crossovers, and the other two relays allow me to run two trains on a single outside loop.  

All the relays are powered from the accessory terminal on my VW, and everything is done using homemade insulated outside and center rails on tubular track.  153 block signals are tied to all six relays.  

Using the relays to allow for multiple trains on the single outside track was relatively easy, and only the relays and insulated rails were needed to make everything (including the 153 signals) work.  The Azatrax website has the wiring diagram for this.  

The crossovers were a little hairier.  It took some trial and error to get things working (mostly) correctly and there were several unfortunate collisions.  Most of the headaches were caused by the coasting distance of the engines running past the "dead" block, then powering up and charging into the occupied crossing.  I increased the stopping block distance which solved the collision problem, but resulted in occasional gridlocks where both trains would encounter a "red" signal and stop.  I needed to install two SPST (momentary on) switches as overrides across the relays to allow one train to "ignore" the stop signal, and proceed through.  I only allow the trains to run in a single direction on the crossover loops.

Overall, I've been very happy using the same process and equipment that you've described above.  It's fun watching trains (and block signals) operate like a ballet.  

Good luck.  

The relay, and a little extra wire, is the only thing you need. If you have the center rail powered by the U post and the outside rail connected to the A post, then connect the relay coil between the insulated rail and the transformer’s C post. This will cause the relay to operate when the train’s wheels are on the insulated rail. On the signal, connect the A post on the transformer to the center terminal on the signal.  Then connect the C terminal on the transformer to the 1C terminal on the relay.  Connect the red lamp terminal on the signal to the 1NO terminal on the relay. Connect the green lamp terminal on the signal to the 1NC terminal on the relay.   The #2 contacts on the relay are extra.  You could use them to stop and start a following train.

@rph posted:

...This relay seems to be an economical and easy to install alternative to the contactors...

There is another way, using the insulated rail and no relay, just an extra bulb(hidden beneath platform or painted black).

Here is how to do it w/o relays or modules as posted in 2011.

 
lionelsoni posted:

...There is a simple way to operate a signal from a control rail (an insulated outside rail), which I have described a number of times on the forum, using only an extra incandescent lamp:

Connect the green lamp's terminal to the layout common, that is, the outside rails generally.  Connect the red lamp's terminal to the supply, whether the center rail or a separate accessory supply.  Connect the signal's common (the terminal connected to both lamps) to the control rail.  Then connect an extra lamp in parallel with the red lamp, that is, effectively between the supply and the control rail.  The extra lamp should have the same voltage rating as the signal lamps but draw twice the current.  When the signal lamps are number 52s or 53s, as they often are or could be, a number 57 is ideal as the extra lamp.  An alternative is to use two extra lamps in parallel, of the same type as in the signal.

A couple of years ago, I was surprised to come across almost the same idea in an old book I was reading.  [Raymond F. Yates, Making and Operating Model Railroads, D. Appleton-Century, New York, 1943]  It was attributed to Albert C. Kalmbach, the founder of the very company that sponsors this web site.  The difference was that he used an ordinary resistor in place of the extra lamp.  However, lamps work much better in this circuit.

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