Replacing old track with new.

Hi Eric, my layout is all realtrax from MTH, my advice to you

don't even bother with it. Way to many problems.

You will be much better off with Lionel fast track

or Atlas.

THANKS ,ALEX

It's a hard call. At AGHR, we decided that new track work would be done using Atlas instead of Gargraves because it's easier to keep clean and quieter due to solid rail. The down side is it's expensive. Connecting it to Gargraves track or Ross turnouts is also easy -- slide back the end ties 1/4" and use regular Atlas joiners (shave out the tie webbing on the Gargraves.) Works great.

I've used MTH RealTrax and while I think it looks better than FasTrack, Lionel FasTrack is a lot easier to assemble and comes in a more systematic curve size (6-inch increments on the radius.) That's why we chose FasTrack for the "Park Setups" we do occasionally.

Since I'm starting from scratch, I'm using ScaleTrax since the layout will be permanent.

I went with all Fastrack on my layout, which has been under construction for the past 2-3 years. Although Fastrack is not the greatest looking, if you are going for the ultimate realistic look, but it can be made to look pretty decent with a little "dressing up".

 I agree, the switches are expensive, but you should be able to find the Standard remote ones in the  $60-$70 dollar range. Especially if you purchase a few at a time, I would think most suppliers would be willing to discount them somewhat.

Anyway, since the day I started running trains, all my switches (15 of them) have worked flawlessly. The non-derailing feature is great, and I've had no electrical issues at all. I'm somewhat "Electrically challenged", and my priority was a track system the worked right out of the box. I certainly wasn't interested in chasing down any track related electrical issues, which would have been a nightmare for me.

In my case, Fastrack has met that requirement.

REV

As a counter to Alex, my "Temporary" Layout has been in operation for several years on RealTrax.

Other than one troublesome switch I haven't bothered to fix, it's been fine. No dead spots, no coming apart and it's not secured to the layout at all.

The problem on the switch is poor leveling on the approach. It's a hodgepodge of things supporting the plywood and the switch is on a joint in the plywood.

Putting Realtrax together without trouble takes a trick, and it's not in the documentation because there isn't any.

Place a piece of track in position. Hold the new piece at 45 degrees to the original with the rails touching. While pressing the rails together, rotate the new piece down flat. It will snap together and stay that way. Tough one is the last joint, hold both pieces up in a V, press together and lower in place. To separate, Lift the far end of the piece you want to remove & it will pry itself apart.

This is a good thread...

@eric What is going wrong with the gargraves track you have?

I am pondering what track system to go with. I have a temporary fast track one. I like it for what it is. Comes together and apart quickly, joints are tight.

My one grips with it is I have lost a couple of pieces to rust ( i guess from oils and moisture from handling)

Anybody have experience with stainless gargraves?

Eric, have you tried Rail-Zip? What a great product!!

Last year I moved from tubular track and Ross switches to Lionel Fastrack.  I am not a 3RS guy so really did not care what the Fastrack looked like.  What I did want was a reliable track system and a nice uniform look to my layout, I achieved that with Fastrack.  The Fastrack switches are incredible, I NEVER had a derailment or engines jumping or rocking as they traverse the switch …. They are smooth.  My layout is small, 5X11 with 6 FT switches and I have had no problems.  If you’re a train runner this a good solid track system.  Most of my engines are Lionel, both postwar and modern and I run conventional and command.  The MTH engines I have are all conventional and they run great as well. 

Everyone is different and has different requirements.  All the track systems are good it’s just a matter of what you want.

What is worng with realtrax from MTH

I recently converted from tubular o27 to Ross track and switches.  I like the overall look and operation with Ross, but have found I am having trouble to keep the track from separating at some points in the layout.  Other than that, I am thoroughly satisified with the Ross product.  Hopefully I will find a cure for the track separating and not have to fasten each section to the base.