Requesting Advice on Deciding a new PS3 engine

I don't think you can go wrong with any PS3 engine.  Reading into your post it seems your limited by the size of the curves, and that's OK.  There are still a lot to chose from.  It really comes down to a matter of personal preference.

Good luck and enjoy!!!

John

Don't fall into the same trap that I and many others have fallen in to.  Engines are cool and sexy and illicit the "got have it" mentality when we see one.   Then you end up having a lot of engines with no rhyme or reason.

Take a step back and think about your layout.  How do you want to run trains?  Just run in circles?  Operating? Little bit of both?   There is no right answer.  We all do it a little differently.  It's what YOU like that counts.

Do you care about scale or era?  Do you mind if a 1980's passenger train passes a modern day Amtrak?  It's ok if you do... but some people model specific time frames.  That drives certain decisions.

Do you care about scale and size?  O Scale is not "one size fits all".  Yes, they all run on the same track, but they are different sizes.  If you care about that, it might drive a certain decision.

You mentioned you have space and resources.  How much space?  Go to the largest radius you can fit NOW.  If you can migrate to O-72, you can run any engine on the market.

Did you purchase and install MTH DCS?  The system to run PS3 Engines.  Do you plan to?  If you are planning on it, great.  If not, there are a few other engine manufacturers with sound options you may like more.  Unless there is a PS3 engine out there now you gotta have and there is a fear it will sell out and MTH will never make it again, I would focus on installing DCS and getting your layout updated with new curves first.

They are always remaking NS, CSX and Amtrak.  Usually when they remake them, they are even better.   NJT is more hit n' miss.  I'm still waiting for a re-release of the NJT AEM-7 in PS3.

Best of luck with your decision!

Have Fun!

Ron

Steve, it sounds like you have a very clear basic vision of what you want, which is something I did not have at first.

For instance, I have some western locomotives I bought years ago that I rarely run today because my clear preference has become Northeast railroads, and lately I have narrowed it down further to focusing on The Put from the late 1930s through the 1950s.

Your focus appears to be modern, diesels and passenger trains in the mid-Atlantic states. Arnold

I would change to 042 or larger radius track first. Then you have a LOT more options, and everything that you have will probably run more reliably.

My vote would be the 44 Tonner. Another good choice would be the Boxcab. Scale, and small. There should be no issue with any of the curve radii.

First, thank you all for your responses! They’re great and gave me some things to reflect upon. I think I overreacted after the initial purchase. For your in-depth, helpful responses I’ll reply in kind.

@Gilly@N&W I was close to getting the Amtrak 44 tonner(seeing it in person was nice). In fact, when I began thinking about buying a new engine that’s the first one that came to mind until I researched more. Didn’t see the LV 44 tonner on display BUT it would’ve been interesting to add command to the LV part of my layout(see below). When you say boxcab, are you referring to the AEM-7? Thanks for your advice!

@jbmccormick I think you’re right, they all have a great operating system. That said, sometimes you might want an engine that will fit the rolling stock which you already have, some people might want to try steam Engines, certain features(ditch lights, mars light) might play a minor role. Minimum curve, obviously, really sets the bar on what you can and can’t buy. Thanks for your encouragement , i think I’ll be happy with whatever I decide(right now that’s keeping it!

@Arnold D. Cribari it’s like you psychoanalyzed my train layout personality type or I took a Myers-brigg and you gave me the results haha. Modern, diesels/electrics, passenger, Mid-Atlantic. Totally on point. 

While not pertinent, I know how to identify That focus as it shifted entirely when it came to my dedicated Lehigh Valley RR O-27 loop. When I started I said I’d always run something LV(dedication to my family and the area). As I expanded this became LV only(not that I won’t run it anywhere else). Focus here is 50s to the 70s and a changing Lehigh Valley. 2 pics below:

@Ron045  fell into that trap- I’d say between November 2018 and February 2019- luckily I watched a video on youtube early on(not very well made, bad presentation) that said as much and that one stuck with me. I still have a few too many locos but I never spent over $120, even with some good pre-war, for any until this summer when I bought my first command engine. I bought the DCS System b/c I wanted to be able to run Proto 2 and 3 equipped engines via command w/ full access to their bells, whistles and tons more. I do want to operate more(especially now that I have the 2 Command engines) but not do yard style switcher operating.  I have an idea on how to strike a middle ground. 

I do care about scale & era- but I Scale “selectively” and my era can be anywhere from the late 70s to the not so distant future 

Figures- High focus on consistent figure Height of 1.5in/38mm(range of 1.25-1.75in/22-45mm). 80-85% of My figures are at/extremely close to that initial 1.5inches. The other 15% are placed at parts of my layout where they’re away from the O scale figures but “still involved in the action”.

Vehicles and buildings- Vehicles 1:43-1:50 on the main part of the layout(LV portion is more 1:64 and 1:72 scale. Regarding structures, I’ve been slowly removing MOST plasticville from my layout while buying Lionelville, MTH, modern plasticville O-scale, a few randoms, and prewar tin(keep reading and you’ll understand that last one.

Train- the consist should look...consistent. I have a nice, aluminum Williams Budd Metroliner that would make a great Cab Control car, but it’s way too big for my railking 16” coaches 

Era- anywhere from late 70s to the not so distant future is my era. My layout is a book I’m writing so interpret how you want or ask me and i’ll Tell you what’s happening. 

Ive become much more Scale concious since I started, but I’ll never be nor do I ever totally want to Scale, mainly because of one thing...I love tinplate. The biggest “problem” w/ era on my layout, whicih I can rationalize and/or find ways that make it fit my standards, is this:

Above Picture, Left to right: 1930s Hornby Tin Fire station, MTH RK BBQ restaurant, 1920s Ives station, 1950s Minicraft food stand(made for American Flyer)

Somehow, at least for me, it works. The buildings I currently have up are mainly older in both age and appearance but somehow seem to balance with newer people and cars. 

Space-On the Right side, towards hot water tank, at least 2 ft. and at most 3 ft. which would increase main layout table width by 50%(it’s about 48 in. wide). Technically, right now, I could make my mainline o-36 with a single 10 inch straight at each end but, until I expand, I like the passenger station “book ends”.  I could only go 2 feet more to hot water heater at the far end, on the left side I have roughly 114in by 70 inches.

Ron, finally, regarding your last comment about roadnames- that’s a very good point of which I didn’t think and which has led to a bit of a revelation. Ironic, I put $ down on an the NJT ALP-46, unfortunately later realized that it takes  0-72 curves. With that engine, I liked 1.) it’s appearance(diesel electric, pantographs, colors, dual cab)  2.) the features(operating pantographs, ditch lights), 3.) the road name. For my first TMCC diesel I wanted an LV or Amtrak to fit my existing rolling stock, this time around I wanted somethings I liked with  Proto 2 or 3  that 1a.) stuck with the what I’m used to(Amtrak, LV RR) or 1b.) added a new roadname. 

@Hudson5432 I definitely agree- that seems to be the recurring theme. That more or less “caps” the available trains in the market that you can run. As @Ron045 said, “...migrate to 0-72 NOW”. I’ve dabbled with and pushed O-31 to the limit. Time to move on. Thanks for the advice Hudson.

So, that book is done lol. Thank you all for your help and advice. I think i’m going to keep the NJT P40, once I unwrapped it my mind started to move in that direction ha. Will post pictures soon- any comments on expansion would be appreciated as well!

    If you want an actual, original LV engine that can be run both with 60's era trains and with modern stuff,  it would be the Lionel C420 #414 that Muffins Trains had customed made earlier this year. #414 currently runs in its original yellow jacket scheme in Scranton on the Delaware Lackawanna. Lionel also made this road number as a non powered about 10 years ago....I have that one. LV is the home road for me.  I checked Muffins website before writing this and that model looks like it has just sold out.  

     Another MTH SW engine to consider is the Juniata Terminal SW1500. It's a Rail King engine based in Philadelphia with the Levin E8s. It has a neat paint scheme.  

StevefromPA posted:

 When you say boxcab, are you referring to the AEM-7? Thanks for your advice!

Click on the BOXCAB hyperlink in my previous post. You mentioned B&O in you initial post. This is a nice, historic little engine.

PA Anthracite posted:

    If you want an actual, original LV engine that can be run both with 60's era trains and with modern stuff,  it would be the Lionel C420 #414 that Muffins Trains had customed made earlier this year. #414 currently runs in its original yellow jacket scheme in Scranton on the Delaware Lackawanna. Lionel also made this road number as a non powered about 10 years ago....I have that one. LV is the home road for me.  I checked Muffins website before writing this and that model looks like it has just sold out.  

     Another MTH SW engine to consider is the Juniata Terminal SW1500. It's a Rail King engine based in Philadelphia with the Levin E8s. It has a neat paint scheme.  

Arnold, holy Toledo, it just so happens that my most trust worthy LHS just got that very engine- powered, command equipped. I didn’t buy it on the spot as I wanted to buy a MTH PS2 or PS3 first. However, I have a side job from December to early Feb that will definitely allow me to purchase that engine. Fingers crossed that no one has bought it. This LHS is small, been open for 70+ years, the only worker is the owner but his repair guy and one of his suppliers are both connected and travel a lot. My only guess it that the supplier gave the owner that LV yellow jacket b/c  I bought a LV C628 advertised as Proto 2(per the supplier) that ended up being locosounds(major let down), the owner ripped into that supplier and showed me the yellow jacket last week. What an awesome engine!

** Scratch that- I think it’s the #407** nonetheless, still is on my list 

@Gilly@N&W I love those Ingersol Rand box Cabs! I believe MTH also made them in Union Carbide livery and a demonstrator? Another engine that I like, which is similar in style in that it has the box shape, is the PRR BB1. Also, moving a couple decades later, big fan of the MU MP54.

Thank you all for your advice and input, it was really helpful. I felt it only right that I follow-up with you!

Ended up buying this NJT Genesis P42DC Proto 3 Nick Smith exclusive(20-20773-1) cab number 4803. While not what I had planned on buying, and more than I had planned to spend, I love this guy! And the proto 3 features?!?!? Goodness gracious. NJT Rolling stock is difficult to find

I'd like to run it as a passenger train but scale NJT passenger cars are tough to come by. In terms of a passenger consist, Ideally, I'd go with MTH Railking 16"  coaches but they haven't made them in NJT livery in 14 or so years, and I've seen the Atlas and Lionel offerings. In terms of freight,Lionel, K-line and MTH have made that but, besides a K-line tank car, I haven't really liked any I've seen. Regardless, I'm happy with my purchase and content running Amtrak or LIRR behind this great engine. 

Now for a post-Christmas bonus find...

MTH Railking PRR Bantam 6-8-6 Steam Turbine with Proto 2. From what I've read, these were sold in a lot of the early Proto 2 RTR sets. Went to a hobby shop on Saturday, came across it in their large discount section, and was offered 50% off. While it's no where near scale(the same size as my Post war 2056 baby Hudson), and while I'm more of a diesel/electric guy, there was something about this engine that made me jump for it. I want to change out the battery and put a BCR in but the screws are EXTREMELY tight on the tender. 

Again, thank you all for your help in making my decision! Much appreciated!

Steve

StevefromPA posted:

Now for a post-Christmas bonus find...

MTH Railking PRR Bantam 6-8-6 Steam Turbine with Proto 2. From what I've read, these were sold in a lot of the early Proto 2 RTR sets. Went to a hobby shop on Saturday, came across it in their large discount section, and was offered 50% off. While it's no where near scale(the same size as my Post war 2056 baby Hudson), and while I'm more of a diesel/electric guy, there was something about this engine that made me jump for it. I want to change out the battery and put a BCR in but the screws are EXTREMELY tight on the tender. 

 

 

Steve

Steve, I had the same problem removing the screws from MTH Railking locomotives to take the shell off. The screws were tight and I was afraid of stripping them with the Phillip's screwdrivers I had that were not a perfect fit. So I went to Lowes with the locomotive, tried the Phillip's screwdrivers they had, and found a long stemmed Craftsman (Sears?) one with a magnetized tip that fits and works perfectly. Now I can remove the MTH screws with ease.

I will take a photograph of that screwdriver and post it in a reply in a few minutes.

Incidentally, I have the same MTH Railking Proto 2 Pennsy turbine engine, have had it many years, and it is one of my favorites. It has excellent sounds and smoke and runs well. 

IMO, you made a smart choice purchasing that Pennsy turbine, and deciding to replace the battery with a BCR.  Make sure you get the correct BCR for that engine. Arnold

Steve, here is a photo of that Craftsman Phillip's screwdriver:

Arnold

@Arnold D. Cribari thank you for the help/advice on the screwdriver! Sears was closed so I bought one from autozone to try out. Magnetized like yours. Hopefully this one works like yours!

Also- cool coincidence that we both have that engine. It’s one of the original proto 2s so a 9v JB Weld BCR will work- per the instructions. Just took the BCR out of a Proto 1 engine and plan on putting it in once I gethome and(fingers crossed) remove the screws from the tender.

Arnold, question, how does the BCR affect operation for a proto 2? Specifically starting up? I know I had to wait 45sec to 1min for Proto 1.

StevefromPA posted:

@Arnold D. Cribari thank you for the help/advice on the screwdriver! Sears was closed so I bought one from autozone to try out. Magnetized like yours. Hopefully this one works like yours!

Also- cool coincidence that we both have that engine. It’s one of the original proto 2s so a 9v JB Weld BCR will work- per the instructions. Just took the BCR out of a Proto 1 engine and plan on putting it in once I gethome and(fingers crossed) remove the screws from the tender.

 

Arnold, question, how does the BCR affect operation for a proto 2? Specifically starting up? I know I had to wait 45sec to 1min for Proto 1.

Hi Steve, that Railking Pennsy turbine is my only Proto 2 engine. With the BCR in it, I start it up the exact same way as my Proto 1 engines with the BCR. I start it up at 12 volts for one minute (at least 30 seconds), then I turn the power down to 8 or 9 volts for 5 to 10 seconds, and then press the direction button so it moves forward.

I hope your new Phillips  screwdriver makes it much easier for you to remove the MTH screws. If not, I suggest you return the screwdriver, get your money back, take your MTH tender with you, and try out the screwdriver on the tender in the store as I did. Arnold