Rewiring help needed for Flyer 312 K-5 with smoke in tender

I don't have any diagrams and I don't think a picture would help.  The wiring from the tender to the E Unit in the boiler is just two wires from each of the tender trucks to the engine jack panel to the E-unit.  If you have a 350 or a 300 it will be the same.  Port Lines Hobbies can sell you a jack panel.

There is no wiring from the E Unit to the smoke unit and its mortor.  If you are missing all of that go to ebay and buy a used complete S-I-T system.  They are from $30-$50. If the wiring is complete it will be easy to figure out one wire from it goes to each tender truck. 

I have a number of prewar 3/16ths O gauge Flyer engines, but they all have their reverse units in the boiler.  I don't have any intact S gauge engines to use as a reference, and it's been a long time since I've had a Flyer S gauge engine to work on.  I need to dig some more and see if I have a jack and plug assembly in my parts stash - I have mostly prewar O gauge carcasses, but I know there's an S gauge hulk or two tucked away somewhere...

Another problem - the cap to fill the smoke unit is unwilling to come out.  Is it a press fit piece, or is it threaded?  

It is threaded.

These are probably something you already have,

Steve

Nope - that's exactly what I need!  I finally got the cap screw to come out, all the wiring to the front truck had come loose (poor resoldering job by someone.  Some Mystery Oil on the bearings and a little grease on the worm gear and the unit started up with a nudge of the armature.  I even got a little smoke to puff out - only had some Lionel fluid handy (sorry Flyer Guys) and it puffed away.  The bellows has some small tears - any repair hints for that?

Doug Peck at Port Lines has the correct fabric strips to repair the bellows. He also offers a piston/cylinder conversion kit. Some tips for the repair are available here. 

Some guys have had decent results using a strip of material from a rubber glove instead of the original type of bellows fabric. Replacement of the bellows material is quite easy and only takes a few minutes. Doug suggests using a fast-setting glue for the repair but I've had the best results with contact cement. Either method works. The cylinder conversion is nifty, but more expensive. On many units you will have to modify the smoke chamber so that the cylinder will slip into place. Good luck!

Depending on how badly the bellows is torn, I've replaced the bellows material (some reproduction materials are too stiff, just be aware), installed a piston/cylinder instead, or repaired small tears with small amounts/thin coating of a flexible adhesive/caulk (best done and allowed to dry with the bellows in an expanded position, even beyond normal operation limits by removing the drive tab from the gear.  

What I thought was torn was just darkened spots - no bellows damage.  I tracked down all the parts I needed for the engine save for the long shoulder screw for the pilot truck - my local hobby shop had one in the Flyer parts bin.  I swiped the motor and reverse from a prewar 3 rail chassis (disconnected the 3rd rail wire and lifted everything up and moved it over), found a jack and plug assembly on a Hudson carcass, and even found a GE bulb that worked on another donor chassis.  I've rewired the tender as the wiring was frayed in spots, and one wire had a poorly made splice that hit the trash.  I need to redo the wiring inside the engine to the jack panel, and then give it a test run.  I need to track down some dry transfers for the engine and tender, and I can move it on to a new home.  Anyone have a source for the Pennsylvania lettering and number 312 on dry transfers?

Thanks!  I'd taken a quick glance at the Portlines site and saw Doug's listing for rubber stamps, but missed the dry transfer info.

Just put the whole kit and kaboodle back together - after a couple attempts (tough getting the wiring under the hood lined up just so), and spending forever getting the linkage lined up and screwed down snugly the 312 lives!    I ordered dry transfers from Doug Peck, and I need to scrounge one of the brass retainer arms for the boiler front - back to the pile o' Flyer parts I go...