Ross Double Cross Over Wireing

Good morning

 

I didn't know that was a problem in three rail ? or are you two railer.

 

Clem

Is it the 175 or the 280 crossover?

Choo Choo kenny....

The center of crossover is the wiring fun.
Basically you wire in a relay that is actuated when one particular route is chosen and is activated when the switches are set to that direction.

Basically when all switches set to straight one part of center crossover is hot with other rails unpowered and the reverse for the other direction of travel.

Go to Ross website I believe he has a wiring schematic for it.

If using tortoise switch motors you can use the contacts to activate the relay also I think atlas switches with extra contacts added.

StPaul

if you are wiring a Ross #8 crossover the center brass diamond is wired to the hot side, (center rail) the lead rails both straight and curved need a relay to turn power off and on to them. The  straight lead rail should be wired so that it is powered in the normally open relay position and the curved lead rail wider powered in the normally closed position.  Now comes the rub, the experts say the lead rails should be wired "hot" so that when the roller pickups cross them, there is not a short. I have been using  DCS and find that if the lead rails are not wired to common there is too much space between where there is good common return that there is both electrical and signal loss. Keep in mind that on 2 and three axel diesels there is really only one wheel, traction tire do not make good contact, on each truck making contact to the rails due to the large amount of insulated track, actually plastic rail guides when crossing over one side to the other.  Going straight through is not a big problem.  Another issue is the way the turnout motors are oriented, especially if you are using Z stuff turnout motors as the LEDs on the motors control the direction power flows, and effects relay operation.  This may all be very confusing and it is because we have bread boarded this and then followed the plan on the layout with mixed results. I would stay away from Z stuff motors to run these turnouts. 

    Clem K I am using 3 rail.     Lima it is the 175.    ST PAUL and kg south I am going to be using double leg double throw switches with red and green indicator light / led on the control panel. The switch motors are tortoise with the plug in connections from Radio Shack. I want to install the rotating red and green light on the side of the switch. Hopefully this is enough information to help anyone help me out. I have tried to look up different things on wiring up the tortoise switches but haven't been able to find how to wire everything I need to. Hope someone can draw me A wiring diagram? I looked on Ross Custom Switches web site but they show how to wire their relay systems. Thanks to anyone whom can help and thanks to everyone whom has tried to help so far. Choo Choo Kenny         

Kenny.  We have trouble with the 175 double crossover. But again we are using Z stuff switch motors with #1008 relay. I would try this: wire your switch motors so all tracks are straight, or all tracks are to crossover.  See if your engines will run through the crossovers with no power applied to the diamond rails or the lead tracks. The #175 is different than the #8 double crossover.  I think you are smart using the tortoise switch   motors. If  you find you are stalling on the crossover I would use the second leg on the double throw switch to run common power to the curved lead rails, when crossing over and to the straight lead rails when going straight thru, and no power to the 4 diamond rails.

We just completed wiring my buddies ross dbl xover using zstuff dz1000 switch motors and a dz1008 relay. we also used 2 double pole double throw momentary switches to operate the switchmotors.  If you energize the rails that surround the diamond then you really must be on your toes because you must make that xover normal before th train comes back around or another train approaches. This disapointed my buddy that he wouldnt be able to set both xovers and let afewtrins run.

pennsyfan..... is it possible to add a relay with track power for the diamond only that will change the rails in diamond being powered using an isolated rail so a train can cross the diamond from one mainline to the other??

 

StPaul

StPaul,

I'm not sure that I understand your question; but we have the advanced Double xover which means that it is prewired except for those rails marked 1 & 2 around the diamond. In previous models you had to bridge the diamond to one of the center rails.

There is no need to route the diamond power through a relay because each side of the xover draws power from the track leading to it. I can't say for sure which side powers the diamond; but it shouldn't be an issue because you want it live when a train is crossing over. If the switches are aligned straight then it isn't an issue. Hope that helps.

I have the old #175 double crossover if all 4 rails on mine are powered at same time it creates a dead short.

So is the newer double crossover different from mine? just curious is all.

StPaul

       
       

If you mean the 4rails that are around the diamond, they cannot be powered at the same time. As the diagram above shows, they are paired 1 and 2. One set is powered when the relay is  operated and one set is powered when the relay is operated.

Choo Choo kenny... here is the ross diamond/relay wiring diagram.

 

terminals 1,2 are also used to power the toggle switches to allow both tortoise machines to function from through to curved route.

 

terminals 3,4,5,6 are used to connect 2 tortoise machines together and one toggle switch to control both of them  and this is how the paired machines change the power from rail #1 to rail #2.

 

I did not include the switch wiring as to much clutter in diagram but all you need is both terminal #1 and #8 from 2 tortoise machines wired together and provide a hot and common wire going to toggle switch and then back to the appropriate screw terminals on the 10 position terminal strip.

 

wire up 1 set of switches machines to its toggle switch and when all is working the second one will go quickly.

 

the lower terminals #7-10 are for the small grain of wheat light bulbs for the switch lanterns I assumed your using the ross switch stand lanterns? they are a bear to get working and allow the points of switches to line up as well.

 

maybe someone else has a sure fire way of getting them to work first time.

when you get them done get up when it is still dark outside and power those switch stand lights on leave all other lighting off and enjoy the small light show they provide is a very soothing effect.

 

 

StPaul

 

 

StPaul,

First apologies; I became quite inattentive in August and September as we prepared to move. Your idea sounds workable. The next time I get to my buddies layout, I'll have to work through it.