Ross Switches Direct Current

You need a 12 volt DC power source. You have a few options.

• You can add a AC to DC rectifier to a circuit from your AC accessory transformer.
• You could buy a cheap HO transformer
• Or, you could salvage a DC wall wart from some old piece of electronics. I save old wall warts. You can see the power rating on the back of them. It will read something like Output DC 12V 2A. Amazon has one for $8.99. Just cut the plug off and wire to a distribution block to your switch machines.
• PIKO switch controller that takes AC power and controls the LGB switch machines that Ross uses.

George

I talk to Steve at Ross about when he start making them that he should put a bridge rectifier on those switch machine's there LGB and are DC because most guy's using them have AC and some don't know about DC , I have a pair of them they work really well on my Std. Gage , I used a bridge rectifier and I use a Z4000 to power them .

Guy 

Thanks George. In the last option, if I find a wart at hone or buy from amazon, you are suggesting plugging the wart to the wall power but snipping the other end that might have a pin and hardwiring it to the switch remote button or wherever power is to be connected. 

Thanks 

Guy, 

mid I go the Bridge Rectifier route, where can I buy one and what power rating ? From Amazon? 

George S posted:

You need a 12 volt DC power source. You have a couple of options.

• You could buy a cheap HO transformer

George

Best answer. For best operation, I would strongly suggest giving yourself the opportunity to adjust the voltage to the switch motor. Voltage too low and the switch may not move far enough. Voltage too high and it might bounce. Either way it's a formula for a derailment.

Gilly@N&W posted:

George S posted:

You need a 12 volt DC power source. You have a couple of options.

• You could buy a cheap HO transformer

George

Best answer. For best operation, I would strongly suggest giving yourself the opportunity to adjust the voltage to the switch motor. Voltage too low and the switch may not move far enough. Voltage too high and it might bounce. Either way it's a formula for a derailment.

Plus, there's a million of them out there to be had for next to nothing... 

Mark in Oregon

NONE OF THE ABOVE!

Actually the easiest solution is to install and use a PIKO switch control box instead of the switch controller that comes with the Ross switches.  This surface-mounted, almost "art deco" controller was designed to operate the LGB switch motors that come with Ross switches.  To make things even easier, the PIKO control box will take any electrical input, be it AC or DC, and automatically convert it to the exact DC current and voltage required to operate up to four separate LGB switch motors (or other DC accessories).  Furthermore, you can easily buy it online on ebay's G scale site where there are several firms selling them right now.

Bob Nelson

ash standard posted:

Thanks George. In the last option, if I find a wart at hone or buy from amazon, you are suggesting plugging the wart to the wall power but snipping the other end that might have a pin and hardwiring it to the switch remote button or wherever power is to be connected. 

Thanks 

Yes, that is correct.

George

navy.seal posted:

NONE OF THE ABOVE!

Actually the easiest solution is to install and use a PIKO switch control box instead of the switch controller that comes with the Ross switches.  This surface-mounted, almost "art deco" controller was designed to operate the LGB switch motors that come with Ross switches.  To make things even easier, the PIKO control box will take any electrical input, be it AC or DC, and automatically convert it to the exact DC current and voltage required to operate up to four separate LGB switch motors (or other DC accessories).  Furthermore, you can easily buy it online on ebay's G scale site where there are several firms selling them right now.

 

Bob Nelson

This is a great option, and I should have mentioned it. I edited my post. You can control 4 switches with it and it takes AC power. They are pricey though. I have an older LGB (yellow) one that I have been saving. I don't recall if it takes AC power.

George

Ash,

I think you would find the PIKO controller the most satisfactory.  Since you are using your switches as crossovers, you will want to wire them to the controller so that both switches in each pair that make up each crossover move together.  The PIKO controller has plenty of power to move both switches in each pair at the same time, and the wiring is greatly simplified.  Plus, the PIKO controller has a great "art deco" look that will enhance the appearance of your control panel!

Kirk

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