It's important to me that I publish my not so successes as they come along.
Not that there's anything wrong with the Scale City Designs grade crossing kit.
Although I have to say that it's not for the beginner.
The base plate you can see in the bottom of the pack has to be drilled through with a 1/8" bit to take the brass pole. The tubing is very thin walled and easily crushed.
I trimmed the tab off the side of it, as once the tube goes through my base board, it will be stable enough.
I filed the spacer off the back of the cross bucks to bring them closer to the pole. I also had to run the 1/8" drill through the saddles before they would fit over the brass tube.
This is my secret weapon. Priming the die cast metal parts allows the CA glue to grip really well.
The downside it that it sets up very quickly, so one can't faff about.
There was some fettling required to the lamp beam. I had to file off more than 3 mm from the back to get it to sit nice and close to the pole.
I soldered 0.5 mm diameter plastic coated wire to the legs of the LEDs and then coated the joints with PVA to insulate them from the lamp housings. I had to run the 1/8" drill through the lamps to clear the internal flash, otherwise the LEDs wouldn't go in. Easy job.
This is a kit flasher I bought at the electronics hobby shop. The grade crossing lights will be detected by an Azatrax DBD unit, which will switch the light flasher and bell sound player on and off.
Here the LEDs have been inserted into the lamps and their wires have been fed through the pole. The wires are paired up and twisted together. The longer wires are connected to the (+) leg of the LEDs.
And finally the assembled units. Because I only have one track, I replaced the "2 TRACKS" signs with "STOP on red signal" signs. Now I see them in the photo, I think I'll need to reduce the areas outside the outlines, quite a bit.
One thing I noticed was that the beams which carry the lamps are different from each other. It's a small thing; but I prefer the one on the right.
The cross bucks were painted with a brush with flat black acrylic paint and then quickly wiped off to reveal the printing.
Here's what they look like when they are flashing.
I had them on test for about 30 minutes, as the LEDs were exhibiting some odd flickering behaviour. Shortly after I shot this, the outer pair of LEDs failed.
I don't know where SCD sourced their LEDs, but there have been some Chinese ones about which have been a bit suspect. I'm going to drill all four LEDs out and replace them with some from my stock which I know are reliable. Another easy job.
Also I'm going to take the signs off and make some new ones of various sizes, to see if I can improve the aesthetic.
All in all, I found them to be nice kits - with fine details; like the bolts and nuts around the base plates.
I'll be back later once I've repaired them. 
Cheers
