Securing Classification Lights--How To?

I usually try to drill a centering hole in each piece and use a piece of brass rod to act as a mounting pin. Your looking at some really small holes though on this project. There’s just not a lot of surface to work with.

@Dave_C posted:

I usually try to drill a centering hole in each piece and use a piece of brass rod to act as a mounting pin. Your looking at some really small holes though on this project. There’s just not a lot of surface to work with.

That's a great idea. Do you solder or bond?

Ideally, consider looking into resistance soldering, ….this is the preferred method. You can not concentrate heat in a precise place like you’re working on with any type of pencil iron. …..Resistance soldering makes the work piece part of the electrical path, thus resulting in a concentrated heat exchange right at the parts you’re working on,…..

Pat

You might try using silver solder...it has a higher tensile strength than tin/lead.   Downside is higher heat to flow properly.  If you're not into this, you might try having a jeweler (well-established, reputable, local) do this one job for you.  Just a thought.

KD

If possible, I drill and tap a tiny hole and use a screw to attach stuff like this.

@HudsonORailRoader posted:

I have a brass B&O Q3 2-8-2 with a broken classification light. Actually, I recently soldered (60/40 solder) two new lights onto the firebox front and they just don't seem to hold very well. One easily came off during a painting process.

Probably did not have a good soldering joint if that happened

So, what do you recommend to keep these little buggers attached? Epoxy? Better solder? Better soldering process?

Better soldering process - yes. Resistance set up is you have it, but a small pencil torch works nicely. Clean surfaces and good flux, and a solid set up/positioning.

I agree the problem was a poor solder joint. A better joint would have held. Wire brush the paint off the nub on the front and strip the paint on the marker. I apply solder to both surfaces first to assure you have a good bond of solder to brass, then the just heat the joint and the solder will fuse to itself. A 40 watt pencil iron will work at that point.

Pete

@mwb posted:

Probably did not have a good soldering joint if that happened

Better soldering process - yes. Resistance set up is you have it, but a small pencil torch works nicely. Clean surfaces and good flux, and a solid set up/positioning.

Yes, have a resistance soldering unit.

Have done postwar markers on boiler fronts just using a tip off toothpick and some JB weld.

The stuff even sealed a crack in our old jeep's oil pan long ago.

Fixed it! I used a resistance soldering approach, cleaned and prepped the mating sufaces, and used silver solder. Worked very well.