Hi everyone, I searched and couldn't find anything, I was wondering if anyone had upgraded there Lionel #450 signal bridge and if so is there any how to or picture out there?
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The above reply is good and would work just fine. As I understand the title of the thread, you want to use led lamps instead of the current lamps.
You should be able to find these ready to use from many sources. It would be more expensive than what Chuck suggests, but not killer expensive. (2 bucks a bulb for the 4) All available in 18v or 14v in screw or bayonet. Note some are available painted, as you have in the picture, or transparent.
Hi guys and thank you for the information. I guess I should have told more in my first post. I have about 25 Red and Green LED's 5mm that are set up for 12v I am hoping to use them as they seam the right size. I have a wall wart to power them so If I am right I just need to ground it to the common track to trip the lights. But then again I am really slow at electrical stuff.
These would probably work well.
20pcs 10mm Red Emitting Diode, eBay: 112171799139, $3 shipped.
10pcs 10mm LED Emitting Diodes, eBay: 252517367451, $3 shipped.
Thanks John, here is what I have already. I think I can make them work.
In that case run ac power to the single diode. Point the diode to the plus leads of the LEDs which are all tied together. And as you say, connect the minus side wire of the LEDs to the train detector that switches from lighting the green to the red when the train is present. Which connects them to the common or outside rail side of the power. The 18 VAC you supply will effectively only be less than 12 VDC to the LEDs because they will only see half the sine wave. And the single diode, 1N4003, will protect the LEDs from the negative half of the sine wave.
Mike,
Put the red on the bottom and green on the top.
Good luck, John
mike g. posted:.... I have a wall wart to power them so If I am right I just need to ground it to the common track to trip the lights. But then again I am really slow at electrical stuff.
As I understand it the signal bridge comes with the 153C contactor mechanism to steer the voltage to either the red lamp or green lamp. So when you say "just need to ground it" are you using the 153C or do you have some other method of turning on one or the other but not both?
He must need one of these. 
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Yes he does. OTOH some guys like to spend their weekends and free time adjusting and fussing with the contactor plate! 
BTW, this is a good example of the on-board jumper to put the outer-rail to relay common.
Yep. I have five converted 450 signal bridges. I took some bayonet type bulbs (NOT the original Lionel bulbs) amd removed the glass by simply twisting it out, Then soldered in an LED and resistor into the metal base and plugged it into the signal bridge. For activation I use a relay (like GRJ's circuit) activated by an isolated rail section.
I use THESE inexpensive bayonet LEDs.
ADCX Rob posted:I use THESE inexpensive bayonet LEDs.
They were'nt available 25 years ago when I did mine.
Here is a converted signal bridge. These are led signals.
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Nice job on the Signal Bridge.
Good luck, John
Hi Guys, First off I want to thank everyone for there input and information. I would have respondes sooner but I was at the local Train Show here in Seattle visiting with Cabinet Bob and just got home. Just to clear things up all I have is the bridge and a boat load of 5mm red and green leds that will fit the heads on the bridge. I didn't even have instructions until a few minutes ago and for that I am sorry. I have no hook up to the track such as the 153C Contactor.
So John is right I will need one of those thingines , Right now I am trying to figure out if I can just fallow the same wiring that they used for the regular lights. I don't want to have to buy anything else as far as light go. I want to make this a chalange on myself. But I know I will need one of the things John pointed out.
Sorry guys I suck at electrical, but I am getting better!
Here is where I get mine, they are 14v, scroll down to you get to the inverted types, they put out great color and you can see them with out having to look at them head on...
http://www.autolumination.com/trainbulbs_leds.htm
Marty
Here are two pictures of the red and green LED bulbs, the flash didn't do them justice:
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Thanks Martin, I put the leds I have in the heads and they fit great, now I just have to wire them so they will work with the thing-a-ma-jig that John is talking about!
Just a quick question, if you just replace the old bulbs, with screw in or bayonet, do you have to change any of your existing wiring?
Thanks
Lionel bubs with LEDs can be purchased at Town and Country Hobbies: http://stores.towncountryhobbies.com/leds/.
I used them in many applications including the 450 signal bridge as direct replacements. I power these LEDs with 14 VAC.
Hi Tony, the answer to your question is no. But I am trying to do it the hard way as I have the time, LED's and enjoy trying to do it.
shorling posted:Lionel bubs with LEDs can be purchased at Town and Country Hobbies: http://stores.towncountryhobbies.com/leds/.
I used them in many applications including the 450 signal bridge as direct replacements. I power these LEDs with 14 VAC.
Thanks, I would have thought so, as long as I buy the correct ones.
The Town and Country LED bulbs are easy to use. They come in screw or bayonet base and different sizes bulbs and colors.
No changing in the wiring at all. Would strongly suggest using the inverted types and not the focused ones, you will be very happy with them. The looks are awesome...
Marty
