Simple Idea for Steady Passenger Car lighting

   I have been doing this the past couple of years to old Williams passenger cars. It does reduce the blinking but not completely. The old wiring needed to be redone anyway.

to reduce completely leds ,capicator,resistor ,and diode, I have tried the forementioned to no avail,this fix is simple and cheap.refer to GUN RUNNER JOHN ,as he has kits avail for this ,easy and simple ,or for your own fix ,parts are avail from digi key,i have done numerous passenger cars ,and am very satisfied,many threads ,here are available with part #s,has been discussed numerous times.good luck

rich b

Dennis, you can connect the pickups but if you do be sure to add short circuit protection (fuse, breaker, PPTC poly switch, etc. ) between them. Otherwise, the interior wiring may burn in a derailment, unless your track circuit protection is really good. 

The GN Man posted:

Dennis, you cannot connect the pickups but if you do be sure to add short circuit protection (fuse, breaker, PPTC poly switch, etc. ) between them. Otherwise, the interior wiring may burn in a derailment, unless your track circuit protection is really good. 

Why not?  All that is happening is a "Jump"; a second feed off the same power leg. It is similar using two small wires to replace a large one.

The poly switch is a great idea for both wiring sets, but there is no reason to say "You can't " here without more explanation.

Like: blocks, where an increased chance of excess voltage/feedback exists when one roller is on each block. This greatly increasing the amount of time the two blocks may connect; which is far from ideal.

For block use, the 2 polys is a good idea. One will break its connection with the power surge and the other will continue to feed power until the open circuit of the fast acting poly closes again. 

I'm with Dennis on incandescent. I don't care for the look of most l.e.d..  Where I do differ is when the l.e.d. is diffused by semi-opaque windows, I can't always tell. But if the led color is too far from a bulb, I can tell and don't like it...usually.

  In modern equipment models, especially passenger cars, I DO like the blue l.e.d. tone. I think it resembles florescent and that look is a modern one.

With diodes and a capacitor you can achieve steady bulbs.

The diodes are needed to keep the cap from bleeding back out of the car to the motor once you have shut down the throttle. I.e., the track would continue to get power from the cap giving a "momentum" feature vs. a fast stop. How much momentum is determined by the motor draw, cap size, and number of cars on track (each assumed to have a cap also)

what I like about large caps is when you stop in conventional, the lights don't go out on the cars right away, but fade instead. You can reverse without every car blinking as you hit a direction button or row the throttle.

I guess then that the ultimate solution is a full wave rectifier with a decent size filter cap. That's a tricky way to do it as one connection to the bulb is the frame so this would require a two wire bulb socket.

You can fit one heck of cap it; seeing it isn't crowded with a motor etc.

and the BR can be very small with only bulbs as a draw.