Sluggish O-72 switches

The important thing after doing what Gunner says is to make sure that when the switch throws that it locks into place. This is accomplished by a 'U' shaped bar that falls into place and locks switch in that direction. When thrown again, locks the other way. You may need two needle nose pliers to for that bar properly so it works both ways.

Next, the voltage you apply makes a difference. I have found that 18V is most reliable. This assures a quick, solid snap. Use the fixed voltage plugs.

After that you will be looking at using the correct bulbs in the switch so the heat does not melt the lanterns. There are either screw in bulbs (#1448 rated at 24V, .04A and.96W - LumaPro PN 2FMW1) or twist bayonnet bulbs (265 rated at 28V, .08A and 2.24W - LumaPro PN 2FLY6).

These are small round bulbs which generate a bright light but almost no heat. Mine have now been in place for about three years with no problem.

Try Bulb Direct.

By the way, with those bulbs you can pump the fixed voltage up to 20V if you like without melting the tops. I like the newstyle with the jewel circular lenses.

Used the Lionel O72 switches bought in the late 80's and had many problems with them.

What you describe is one of the cronic problems.

Another serious problem, with a reverse switch machine, the mouse trap device did not lock a thrown switch in place.

My next layout went with all ROSS switches.

Charlie, the later O-gauge Lionel tubular switches were not as robust as the older ones.  With a proper overhaul, the older ones that were still Bakelite seem to be quite reliable.

gunrunnerjohn,

would you please contact me by direct email ?
sgrdg179@aol.com

Thanks