Small Layout Planning

Just a note about the plan. When you go from the inside to the outside, you can’t go back inside without backing in unless you add a 2nd crossover in the opposite direction.

IF you can stretch to 5x9, this will fit. For benchwork you could start with a ping pong table. This layout would give you: 

• Two mainlines 031/042
• Double cross-over
• Double reversing loops
• Passing siding

The best I heard (literally) to reduce noise is to take Woodland Scenics foam road bed and glue it to the underside of the track. Lots of cutting and gluing (not cheap), but it works.

Hi awoods,

While I can understand wanting to build things a little extra strong, I think your materials you are thinking about using for your table framing are way overkill.

In the first place, a 4' x 8' table is not THAT big of a table.  You really shouldn't have to walk on a table that size, anyway.  But even if you did, a 1 x 4 frame with nominal 4' long cross members at 16" O.C. would be more than adequate.  Even 24" O.C. cross members would still probably be alright.  A 1/2" plywood top with a 1/2" homasote overlay would be just fine, I'd have no problem at all with that.

But 4 x 4 legs?  You're building a model train table, not a work stand for a M4A3 Sherman Tank.  Four legs, using 2 x 2 material, or even a little smaller, would be more than adequate.  Use proper diagonal bracing in two directions on each leg, of course, and you will have a steady, sturdy, light-weight yet strong table.  I'd also recommend 40" table height, this seems to make a good all-around train table height for most purposes if you're not sure how high to make it.

Here's a few pic's of my O-gauge train table framing.  I built two independent table frames, each 6' x 8', and then bolted them together to make one big frame, 6' x 16'.

All my joists are nominal 6' long x 24" O.C.  The legs are actually treated lumber balusters for wooden railings.  They measure a true 1-5/16" square.  I installed a 2" caster on the bottom of each leg to facilitate rolling the table around on my concrete basement floor.  The diagonal braces are 1/2" plastic pipe x 3'-4" long (you can get 3 pcs. from a stock 10' length).  The ends were warmed, flattened, and drilled in order to screw them to the wood.  NOTE: I usually make my diagonal braces from 1/2" rigid steel conduit, but in this case I just so happen to have some 1/2" plastic pipe laying around.  Thought I'd give it a try, and it worked out okay.

I used 1/2' plywood to cover it, and then put down MTH Real Trax directly on top with no homasote or other sound-dampening materials.  It's a little noisy, but I don't find it objectionable.

Okay, I'll admit one thing - I would be a little leery of walking on this table.  But then again, I'm not really a petite sorta' guy.  I knew from the beginning that I would have no need to walk on it.  Otherwise, I may have built it just a little sturdier.  The main thing is though, it's more than strong enough for a train table, and yet light enough to easily move around.

Here are my thoughts. 

1. Using 2 x 4s and 4 x 4s seems excessive. Why do you need to walk on a 4' x 8' layout? I would use 1 x 4 joists and make an L girder from two 1 x 4s.  A lot lighter and then you could probably still walk on it.  Because it is lighter, you could probably attach gliders to the bottom of the legs, you wouldn't need casters. You can screw everything together and use glue for strength. My 4' x 6' actually has 1/4" ply on top and foam. Light and very strong.

2. If you don't screw through the homosote, it will greatly reduce the noise.

3. I don't think there is a typical height. A lot of modelers make them very high- 4' or more for viewing standing. But those aren't usually very deep and it's hard to reach in. For tinplate I would do 30"-36".

4. Not sure where you mean to put the transformers. A shelf under the layout?

I'm building my 5ft x 8ft tables using 2x4 boards with OSB top (I think 7/16").  I'm 200lbs and can walk over all it with no problem.  Doesn't budge.  I was planning on using 1x4 boards but they were more expensive than the 2x4 boards at my local Home Depot.  The cross beams are on 16" centers.  The height is about 40".

There’s no real reason NOT to use 2x4s if you want. They’re generally considered overkill, but they’re also usually cheaper. There are plenty of layouts built with 2x4s as well as 1x4s, 1x3s and even ripped plywood. 4x4s for legs is overkill and probably overly expensive, but they could be tapered to make some nice looking legs. I assume the idea is they wouldn’t need bracing. I used 2x4s on my 3-year Christmas layout, but I added bottom rails with the intent of adding shelves before plans changed. 

IMHO the quality of the wood is very important and worth spending extra money, more so than choosing between 1X vs 2X.  I don't know what is available in your area but it is worth shopping around.  For example, look at the quality of wood in Paul's photos.

2" X 4", ( 16" OC), a good idea.  I have been on my layout more than you would think.  Consider purchasing, longer framing material, 12ft ,  16ft,  white fir.  Better quality, does not twist or warp, (?? as much ??)  

An access hole is a good idea.  My sweetheart was on the layout, yesterday, April 30, 2020, cleaning, the one window, in the room.  Thank you, Dear

Given that you sound like someone who enjoys an involved building project, this may not be for you but thought I'd mention it.

Mianne bench work kits. Solid, sturdy, easily modified and/or added on to. A favorite of many here and backed by a company with a great product and end user support. Might be just the thing since you're in an apartment. And no sawdust mess!

Lots of threads here where you can find examples of forum members using Mianne.

http://www.miannebenchwork.com/

There has already been a lot of good information on your benchwork so I'll address the homasote.  I used 1/2 inch homasote over plywood.  I used 3/4 inch plywood but that is over kill.  I glued the homasote to the plywood with wood glue.  I then drew the track plan on the homasote and applied cork roadbed.  I attached the cork to the homasote with caulk.  I then attached the track to the cork/homasote with 1/2 inch wire nails, the smallest nails Home Depot carried.  They fit through the holes in the Atlas track I used and were long enough to get to the homasote.  If you ever need to moved anything you can easily pull the track nails out and move the track.  I used a putty knife to peel up the cork.  That isn't as simple as removing the nails.

It isn't dead silent, but it is significantly quieter than just going with plywood. 

Good luck!

Awoods, I have a very similar layout size & track (9x6 FasTrack, which is basically Lionel RealTrax), built in pretty much the way you're describing. I'd say the Homasote definitely helps, but doesn't deaden it completely. The big thing I'd caution you on is that it's pretty much impossible to move the table in between rooms without massive disassembly. If you're good with that, I'd say you're fine.

My old 7 1/2'  X  7 1/2' layout built with 1 X 4 framing; 3/8" plywood top; and 2 x 4 legs, all glued and screwed together.

Reach was manageable at 39" and plenty strong enough to climb on. Topped with 3/4" foam insulation board painted earth brown and sprinkled with green and yellow fine turf to help deaden sound.

Switches were mounted on a 1/4" thick oak plate in the right corner and there are platforms for the transformer and Legacy base. I also connected a small bridge across to the window where I was able to put in a few yard tracks.

Lots of action and scenery in a small space.

@DoubleDAZ posted:

Just a note about the plan. When you go from the inside to the outside, you can’t go back inside without backing in unless you add a 2nd crossover in the opposite direction.

Also, if you go back in over a crossing in the other direction, the same applies to the reverse loop

And that's why I posted the plan showing the double crossovers and reversing loops

Wow - so much great feedback.

I fully intend to add the second cross over and finish the double crossover (eventually). The 5x9 layout Gilly shared is certainly the direction I'd like to go, but for this thought exercise I wanted to limit myself to 4x8 and the track I already have: 3 O31 LH, 1 O31 RH, and 2 LH O72 switches. 

I'm glad to hear the homasote works pretty well - I might try to add some spray foam to the bottom of the track instead of cutting/gluing.

For context, the biggest reason I was thinking about 4x4 legs was a way to mount casters.  I'm thinking I need at least a 2" wheel, and I assumed that I couldn't put that on a 2x4.  I was also wanting to minimize the bracing, as I figure I'll be using the space under the table for storage.  I was also guessing that a 4x4 leg would warp less than a 2x4.  Has anyone ever casters on the bottom of an un-braced 2x4?

All good info being sent your way .  Being a carpenter I always enjoy hearing and seeing what others have done in regards to their framing .  For one of my layouts I used 2x4s and plywood for my legs and 1x4s for all the framing , strong enough to dance on if one wanted to .  Being a person who likes to repurpose  things , I have found old tables can fill your needs for framing .  I recently found a round table set out for trash , with two  leaves  , a little banged up but worth a little time to make it look presentable .  I am thinking of making an N gauge layout on it . Point being , keep an eye out for such items , the hard part is already done for you and it has the appearance of furniture . Now what I did on this free table ,I added a 2x6 to the already expanded oval making it 72 inches long by 41 inches wide . All glued and pocket screwed together .  Even drilled a hole down the center of the leg for the power cord .   Maybe for what you need you might find something at habitat of humanity , they can use the money and you get furniture grade legs and table . 

All the construction ideas are good . If you are concerned about noise,  try to remove as much of the table top in between the tracks. A solid table will transmit noise like a drum head.  Put in hills or valleys in the scenery. 

I do like the table conversion! Just as a thought, you can get THIS sort of thing on it in O27 or O31, respectively (space shown is 78” x 36”)