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Lionel and Mikes both recommend in the range of 15 drops of fluid to add when smoke diminishes. I like a lot of smoke. I opened the SMU and changed the batting. I add more batting then they come with from factory.  I use fiberglass Tiki wicks. As we all do, I ensure that the forced air path is unrestricted. 

 

Based on the size of the fluid holding part of the SMU you can add 40 drops no problem. The size drops I use are standard eye dropper size which are larger than using pipets or syringe drops.

 

I understand that running SMU on high when low on fluid can char the wick or just "stiffen" it so it absorbs fluid very slowly or not at all.  When wick becomes damaged it is easy to think you need to add smoke fluid because of limited smoke out put. You add the smoke fluid and since it isn't being absorbed well by the wick there is a good chance the fan will blow the unabsorbed puddle of fluid out the stack.  Albeit at a slow rate.  

 

To solve this, again I like large volumes of smoke, I increased the batting as stated and I refill with 25 drops of fluid when smoke output decreases.

 

Based on my forum reading no one seems to do this. My gut tells me since that is the case I may be setting myself up for a future problem.

 

Is my thinking on all this valid? What are the potential problems this may cause if any. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions on this.  

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I don't do exactly what you do but something close, although using no more than about 25 drops from an eyedropper.

 

I agree than an SMU can hold more fluid than the manufacturers recommend.  Also, when I replace the wicking in an SMU I saturate it. This means using as much fluid as it takes to soak the wicking but without weighing it down so much that there's little contact between it and the resistor. On some recent Lionel Legacy units I have, especially the literally super smoking FEF-3, the resistor is practically surrounded by wicking except of course at the back where you must ensure that the opening between the fan unit and the chamber is not blocked.

 

Overfilling a smoke unit makes a mess on top of the SMU and inside the engine shell but I do not think that it can short anything out because the fluid does not conduct current. (There was another thread on this forum where this point was discussed.)

 

However, it can also block up the fan unit and that will stop the smoke production. Also, an excess of fluid will reduce smoke output for a while until the heat from the resistor burns it off. How long this takes varies from one engine to another. Sometimes when I think this has happened or just get impatient I open up the engine and put in new wicking and fluid. This usually restore smoke output.

 

But it is difficult to generalize about Lionel SMUs because for some reason they have used a variety of them. The 6 Ohm one in the FEF-3 is superior but I don't think it's been used in other models.

Hancock52, good point about the batting settling once soaked in fluid. I wrap a fair size strand, like half the diameter of a pencil, around part of the element to draw fluid up if the batting settles to much. This piece can tend to char fairly quick if there is not plenty of fluid in chamber. It is amazing how much batting settles comparing size of dry batting to wet.  

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