I'm looking for lights to put over ther doorways of the engine shed I'm working on. Woodland Scenics has a line of Plug and a Play lighting using LEDs but you need the "lighting hub" and power pack. They are very easy to use but 4 lamps with the hub and power pack is $50 so just wondering if there are alternatives.
Im wondering if there are ready made incandescent versions out there?
Mike
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There are a number of them on the bay, these are from Woodland Scenics.
Steve
Thanks Steve , those are the ones I have ready to purchase. They are LEDs and require the additional items I referenced above. They are cool and easy to use. I'm wondering if there's anything else that's ready made and can be connected straight to a transformer. If not, it's no big deal. The power pack can handle up to 50 lights but every light and expansion hub has to be within the reach of each connection cable. So there's a limitation in distance.
Mike
Try forum sponsor OGRE modeling
Check out ngineering web site, lamp kits at reasonable price.
Andre from River Leaf makes them, in brass. At least he used to make them, drop him an email.
Steve, I saw those but completely forgot about them. They're a viable option.
LennyJ, another great possibility, thanks.
John, I saw these and may give them a try at some point.
Thanks guys, since wiring and electronics/electricity are pretty foreign to me I usually veer towards the plug and play but these seem pretty simple. They come with all you need.
Mike
In addition to Andre another forum sponsor - Korber Models - sells lamps which operate on 16VAC or DC.
http://shop.korbermodels.com/K...amp-3-Pack-D0018.htm
You could also buy lamps from Miniatronics and make your own - see below (I also have a design for industrial hanging lamps - if you are interested I can take some pictures and add some note to the file below)
Joe
Thanks Joe.
Mike
ezmike posted:I'm looking for lights to put over ther doorways of the engine shed I'm working on. Woodland Scenics has a line of Plug and a Play lighting using LEDs but you need the "lighting hub" and power pack..... They are very easy to use but 4 lamps with the hub and power pack is $50 so just wondering if there are alternatives.
Im wondering if there are ready made incandescent versions out there?
Mike
Mike
You don't need either the lighting hub or power pack. You can attach the red and black wires from the lamps into the connector, and then connect the red and black wires fromm the connector directly to the transformer or power supply of your choice. (AC or DC.) The Voltage should be above 5 Volts
You need to have the connector in the circuir, as that contains the current limiting resistor and a diode to ensure the correct polarity. For that reason DO NOT CONNECT THE LAMPS DIRECTLY TO THE POWER SUPPLY. ALWAYS GO THROUGH THAT WHITE CONNECTOR PLUG
As for the number of lamps that can be hooked up through the connector, it can be quite a few. The sign below is illuminated with seven WS Gooseneck lamps. I connected four lamps to one connector, and three to another. Both connector leads are then connected to my layout lighting bus. Which powers at least 100 lights of various types.
Thanks John, so once I insert the red and black wires into their respective connection port on the "Linker" Plug I can cut off the plug on the other end that would be plugged into the lighting hub?
Mike
It's a good find, CF but how do you bend the brass tubing without it kinking?
In refrigeration, copper tubing is bent by placing a spring tube over it, but small brass tubing needs smaller springs - which don't seem to be available.
I was thinking of putting the insulated wire up the tube before I start bending it, but I haven't tried it as yet.
We bend them around a round bolt that is in a vise. If you want a double bend, you use two bolts. Ngineering has a kit and full instructions. They work well.
Have also used Ogre and Korber. The Ogre are more flexible and in my opinion look better.
Thanks, Bill. When I bend brass tubing, it kinks.
I tried ngineering's site, but I couldn't pull up the bending kit.
Are you able to see it and perhaps post the link, please?
Cheers
Everytime I try bending brass tubing it kinks too. I even bought the tubing bender kit from K&S which is small springs of 4 or 5 different sizes.... didn't work for me. Kinked the springs too.
ezmike posted:Thanks John, so once I insert the red and black wires into their respective connection port on the "Linker" Plug I can cut off the plug on the other end that would be plugged into the lighting hub?
Mike
you got it!
John Sethian posted:ezmike posted:Thanks John, so once I insert the red and black wires into their respective connection port on the "Linker" Plug I can cut off the plug on the other end that would be plugged into the lighting hub?
Mike
you got it!
Thanks, this just became a whole lot easier for me to do.
And a thank you to the fellow forumites that responded with responses and ideas.
Mike
Still nothing on the brass tube bender?
Sugestion on bending brass or copper tubing.
This tubing is hard and has to be annealed.
To anneal the brass or copper tubing use a propane tank/torch, heat it up to about red hot the quench the tubing in water. After this the tubing will be very soft. If you bend it then need to re-bend it repeat the process. This annealing process for brass or copper is different than steel as the steal will get harder. If it still kinks on you after the annealing process you can fill it with a fine sand and pack it it crimping both ends, this could be done with the bender on and the end poking past the spring bender then cutting off the crimped ends after the bend to pull the spring bender off. The brass and copper annealing process does work and I used it many times with tubing and bras rod bending it a right angle without breaking. Try is on some scrap and let me know the results
Thanks, Ron.
Any ideas where to source the bender?
prrhorseshoecurve posted:
Those are nice. I especially like the variety offered by wehonest_cn and the threaded piece with a nut to mount them. I know others buy their people and so far no complaints about missing shipments and such.
Mike
MaxSouthOz posted:Thanks, Ron.
Any ideas where to source the bender?
Micro Mart has spring type tube benders for $6.95
http://www.micromark.com/5-pie...bender-set,7048.html
Spring type benders with 'funnel' ends let you make smooth, no-kink bends in small diameter brass, copper and aluminum tubing. Simply insert tubing into spring, make your bend, and then slide spring off. 5-piece set bends 1/16 inch, 3/32 inch, 1/8 inch, 5/32 inch and 3/16 inch outside diameters. Nickel plated steel.
I'd recommend Andre from River Leaf as well. His lights are of the highest grade craftsmanship I've seen yet. Plus Andre is a great guy to deal with.
Hi guys!
I used to make them, but not anymore for two reason, one the tube (1/16) is 3 inches diameter in real life, second the labor cost.
But I find a new method to do my lights. Sorry no LED.
I use miniatronics 12v bulb with both wire extended straight,using a brush I apply super glue one inch from the bulb. let it dry well then with a round pliers make the shape you want. after that paint it and install it.
the super glue make the wires tight so its keep the shape.
Andre.
AG - River Leaf Models posted:Hi guys!
I used to make them, but not anymore for tow reason, one the tube (1/16) is 3 inches diameter in real life, second the labor cost.
But I find a new method to do my lights. Sorry no LED.
I use miniatronics 12v bulb with both wire extended straight,using a brush I apply super glue one inch from the bulb. let it dry well then with a round pliers make the shape you want. after that paint it and install it.
the super glue make the wires tight so its keep the shape.
Andre.
Andre,
Those are so cool! They go on my next project.
Mike
ezmike posted:AG - River Leaf Models posted:Hi guys!
I used to make them, but not anymore for tow reason, one the tube (1/16) is 3 inches diameter in real life, second the labor cost.
But I find a new method to do my lights. Sorry no LED.
I use miniatronics 12v bulb with both wire extended straight,using a brush I apply super glue one inch from the bulb. let it dry well then with a round pliers make the shape you want. after that paint it and install it.
the super glue make the wires tight so its keep the shape.
Andre.
Andre,
Those are so cool! They go on my next project.
Mike
In two weeks we will talk for sure!!
Andre.
Thanks, Ron. Never gave Micro-Mark a thought. 
For interest . . .
The set of tubes cost US$6.95 Shipping = US$18.90 Total US$25.85 = A$35.49 
Now there's dedication for you. 
I reckon I'll anneal the tubing as you suggested, as well - and pull the insulated wire through also, before I bend them.
I'll post again in 3 - 4 weeks when the tubes arrive.
Cheers
Ngineering, lighting kits, O gauge. Several different kits are shown. When completed they look great and one kit makes several lights.
All that you need to build some. The first one that I did was difficult but after that they went together quickly.
Also has a kit for streetlights but I have not tried it.
Micromark's tubing works great also.
I am going to try Andre's method. Have what I need downstairs. Will let you know. That looks like the most efficient and least costly of all.
AG - River Leaf Models posted:ezmike posted:AG - River Leaf Models posted:Hi guys!
I used to make them, but not anymore for tow reason, one the tube (1/16) is 3 inches diameter in real life, second the labor cost.
But I find a new method to do my lights. Sorry no LED.
I use miniatronics 12v bulb with both wire extended straight,using a brush I apply super glue one inch from the bulb. let it dry well then with a round pliers make the shape you want. after that paint it and install it.
the super glue make the wires tight so its keep the shape.
Andre.
Andre,
Those are so cool! They go on my next project.
Mike
In two weeks we will talk for sure!!
Andre.
Great!
Mike
A brief update.
I went with the Woodland Scenics lamps as they seemed simple enough. Installation was straightforward, drill the holes, thread the magnet wire through the holes, reshape the tubing to the desired position, glue the fixture in place, route the wires to the central location, connect them to the "Linker" (which is the connection device that would plug into the Lighting Hub if I was using one) and apply power. Lights! Well not exactly.
Here's what I learned or was reminded of: 1. I was reminded that #38 magnet wire is really thin and if you shorten the leads and remove the already "stripped" ends you need to scrape off the covering to bare additional wire. It breaks easily. Same goes while twisting multiple leads together. Good idea not to shorten them. 2. Once you shape and glue the lamps in place, DO NOT attempt to reshape or adjust them again! Why? Because the CA also glues the wires in place and any movement afterwards detaches the leads from the LED and then you have no light. No need to ask how I know.
So I'll be ordering more lamps keeping in mind the lessons learned.
Mike
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