SPST LED Toggle ratings

It looks like the LED is built in and can't be wired separately. There is a good chance you will burn out the LED with 18VAC. If you really want to use this switch, you could run it on 12VDC and trigger a 12VDC relay to turn your blocks on and off. I have a feeling this would cost more than getting a switch that will work with 18VAC. Digikey/Mouser/Newark ect... all have an overwhelming selection of switches.

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/switches

This might be a good place to start:

http://www.digikey.com/product...ker-switches/1114204

Check the "in stock" button on the left. Select the features you want and hit apply features. You can select multiple features by holding "Ctrl" and clicking them individually or by holding "Shift" and clicking the first and last items in the range that you want to select.

Not at all set on this switch.  I would just like a SPST LED toggle for this application where the rating is such that the LED will last for me.

Dumb question, but why not use mini toggles with an LED next to them to trigger relays?  This also allows you to put the relays close to the sidings, etc. and have shorter runs of the wire carrying the heavy current.

Valid question and an easy answer.  Since my "mini-panels" are all close to the locations they are controlling, there are no long runs of wire that would require relays as you suggest.

Take a look at this thread, I think cjack is describing just what you want to do: LED Toggles  He even gives the switch and how to hook it up.

I see that the toggle switch has three terminals in the pictures. I see that there is a + terminal, a load terminal, and case ground. If you connected the ground terminal thru a diode to common in the train layout circuit environment and mounted the switches on an insulated board, they would work the same as the Calterm switches mentioned in the other thread.

The ground terminal in these kind of switches with LEDs is only there for the LED negative lead. The plus lead comes from the power terminal that you are switching. That it's AC doesn't matter to the LED, it just gets it's current on the positive half cycle of the AC. And that reduces the RMS value of the voltage to the LED to about Vpeak/2 which is down near 12.5 VRMS when switching 18 VAC. Adding the diode from the ground terminal of the switch to common protects the LED from the reverse peak of the AC and absorbs another .7 VDC. Perfect.

The fact that the mounting case is also the ground terminal is somewhat undesireable on these toggle switches however.

Hi cjack, can you post your wiring diagram for the led switch and diode. I remember seeing it in another post, but I can't find it. 

Thanks,

Bob

cjack, thank you much for your information and the wiring diagram.  A picture is worth a thousand words to me. 

Do you have a link to the Calterm switches you speak of?  Would they be wired using the same diagram you supplied? 

Thank You!

Thanks cjack!!!  Now I'm just waiting for the post office to find the box of switches they lost. 

Google Calterm switch and several outlets show up.

Bob

Yes I know how to Google   Lots of different things pop up when you google...

Same wiring. I get the switches in the auto parts stores, farm stores in the auto department, etc. 

They are pretty common, rectangular but mount in a round hole. Mine have been working several years as wired at 18 VAC. You only need to connect all the switche grounds together and use one diode to common.

Thanks cjack !