steam engine wheel problem

Perhaps JB Weld. You'll need to ensure that it is 100% degreased. Will it slip back on? Id be worried about the gauging it you have to hit it to get it to reseat.

CA? I wouldn't even try it. I would think that your best solution would be to press off the wheel and replace it. Just my $0.02.

If it can slip back into place with little or no pressure, just clean the wheel and inside of the tire, then apply red Loctite and let it sit for 24 hours.  Chances are it will never be a problem again.  If it does come apart later, you can always replace it then.  You can get Loctite at any automotive parts store.  There is a specific Loctite for this type of situation, but the red is easier to find and will work just fine for a low stress, low heat application such as this.

I agree with Gilly, with JB Weld.  I have done numerous repairs, and have never had a problem using it.  As long as the linkage is in correct position, and it can slip back on, just smear thin coat of JB Weld, let it sit a good 24 hours, and it should be good to go.

Loctite 620 Retaining Compound is a product that is made for press-fit mechanical mating.  I've used it on the insulated "tires" of 2-rail locomotives with good results.  They also have a number of other similar products, all tailored to specific requirements.  Check out all the possibilities at Loctite Retaining Compounds.

LOCTITE by all means !

Thanks for the suggestions,it slips on & off very easy so it should not be a problem to clean the wheel & put some loctite on to hold it in place. Can anyone tell me what the name of this metal ring actually called? I will see if i can get loctite 620 retaining compound that gunrunner john suggested around where i live,if not then i will buy on line.

The "ring" is actually called a "tire". A real steamers (not all models do this) drivers were made up of the wheel and the tire - 2 separate pieces, and the tire (the part with the flange on the real loco - not yours) was heated, slipped on the wheel, then allowed to cool for an essentially permanent installation (your model's was only a press-fit (no heat!).

Tires do wear out, and were changed when necessary - plus, a thicker tire could be put on the steamer's wheel to increase the driver size without having to replace the entire wheel - all of them, really, of course.

Yep, Loctite. It is made for exactly this sort of thing.

Your automobile has Loctite here and there.

Not JB Weld, or any other epoxy. Good stuff, I use it, but this is a pure mechanical problem

that Loctite should solve.

I think they're called "tires" only steel ones.  I guess I'm the only one that would use CA. (crazy glue)  Just don't get it in the wrong spot. (bearings etc.

I think CA glue would work fine, and it has the advantage of being colorless. Just a drop or so in a couple of places around the ring. No need to try to coat the whole area.

 The main issue with ca is cure time. If you don't get the tire on quick enough good luck on try two.

 Even JB weld is a bit permanent.

   Green lock tite is the right product for similar, but as small as it is???

  But if your have red, try that. I suggest red because getting it a little hot with a torch, lighter, soldering iron, etc. will soften it enough for easier removal to do it again. Green is similar, thinner, capillary action is improved, but takes more heat to remove too.

EG: normally red holds strong enough to twist-break the bolt, or strip threads during removal on 1/16" nuts& bolts.

 But heat it first, and do it while still a little hot, then you should have no issue other than it will feel "gooey" as it is coming off (slow).

I'd go lock-tite either way. Most autoparts places should have both.

The only time I ever use blue thread locker, is if I can't ever put heat there without causing damage.

I'm talking 10 seconds with a lighter on a small nut& bolt is normally enough to soften it.

Almost anything will stick it back on permanently.  The Loctite 600 series is the best, and you will never have a reason to want to disassemble it.  But CA would hold just fine, and it takes a couple seconds for it to grip, so you will have no trouble with alignment.  Gauge is set by the driver casting, and this tire has nothing to do with gauge.

I too use the green Loctite for driver assembly, both tires and axles.

One thing about the tires, you have to make sure they're properly seated or the gauge will be affected.  Just something to be aware of when you're using a permanent bonding agent.

Well,i couldn't find any of the 600 series loctite near by,so i tried ca glue which i already have,& so far it is working fine. Could i have used any of the other loctite products,such as the gasket glue?,just curious.

I would recommend 680 Loctite.  It is very strong and doesn't come loose unless you heat it.  I don't know what "red" Loctite is or how strong it is. 

He literally ran the wheels off of it!

Bruce, any of the Loctite retaining compounds, assuming you match the gap to the specifications, should do an excellent job here.

Gerald, that's what a repairman used on my Lionel 2026 with the same problem 22-23 years ago.  It's still on there.

Loctite at your low end auto store is of two types: Red and Blue. Blue you can get apart without heat. red takes heat usually.

Gerald 

  D500 mentioned how a tire is replaced in the real world. Here is a video done at Strasburg earlier this year as they seated a new tire for a C&NW steam loco. I think you will agree that you got off easy on your engine!

https://youtu.be/9L3oaA-nxzY

Tom 

MNCW,I sure did get off easy,actually when i ran the engine after i put the tire back on it was making a noise,so i took it off the layout & i think i didn't have the tire all the way seated,so i taped it lightly & it seems to be ok now,also i noticed that the front roller was stuck & it wasn't touching the rail,i then pryed it loose & now it is ok,i must have gotten some of the ca glue on it,i think that if i have to do this again i will try the loctite either red or blue, thanks for posting the video .