When making your own drivers, do you make the diameter of the crank pins the same as the diameter of the crank pin hole on the drive wheel and use glue to secure it? Or, do you make the diameter of the crank pins slightly larger and press them onto the driver? Or is it dealers choice?
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It’s certainly dealers choice, …..I for one, like that mechanical press fit. I chamfer the tip of the crank pin to make alignment a breeze, and even though I’m doing a press fit, I still use loctite 640 sleeve retainer. To me, that’s just cheap insurance for the future…..
Pat
@harmonyards posted:It’s certainly dealers choice, …..I for one, like that mechanical press fit. I chamfer the tip of the crank pin to make alignment a breeze, and even though I’m doing a press fit, I still use loctite 640 sleeve retainer. To me, that’s just cheap insurance for the future…..
Pat
Any particular reason you went with the press fit?
@Justin Acuna posted:Any particular reason you went with the press fit?
Mechanical superiority, ……I’m never worrying if glue would let go, resulting in catastrophic carnage…..😉
Pat
@harmonyards posted:Mechanical superiority, ……I’m never worrying if glue would let go, resulting in catastrophic carnage…..😉
Pat
That's the way the prototype crankpins are installed, i.e. press-fit.
Swage fit is always the best way.
@Tom Dempsey posted:Swage fit is always the best way.
Are you equating swage fit to press fit? They're different.
I guess it's another way for me to say knurling the axle and then press fitting the wheel is better than a straight up press fit, and yes, still use a little locktite (although I think blue, not red).
@Tom Dempsey posted:I guess it's another way for me to say knurling the axle and then press fitting the wheel is better than a straight up press fit, and yes, still use a little locktite (although I think blue, not red).
Red or Blue loctite are not designed for this job. They are thread locking compounds. Not ideal for the job posted above. Shaft & sleeve retaining compounds ( usually green ) are best here. 640 is my preferred weapon of choice. It gives me 30-45 minutes work time and full cure in 24 hours. Once it’s cured, it ain’t coming apart, ……other shaft retaining compounds are not as forgiving in their work times. They usually lock up as soon as friction does the deed,…….I want some time to set things up, and make sure I’m happy before the compound locks up,….
Pat
You may also pick up some pointers from an article here: https://magazine.oscaleresource.com/books/mdnt/#p=60
Machining Drivers: Glenn relates some of his experience machining drivers
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