Stripping insulation from buss wire for splice joints

RJR posted:

John, I know it's too late, but for my common bus I used bare #12 wire, looped around the layout and coming back to the transformer.  All trains and accessories connect into it.  Not having insulation makes it easy to connect drops.

 

Where I do have insulated wire, I use a stripper that grips the insulation and, when squeezed like a pliers, cuts the insulation and presses on it.  If not at the end of a wire, the insulation compresses and usually leaves enough room to twist the new wire around it.

 

It's an Ideal Stripmaster and it's excellent.  I had a similar one I had gotten from R-S many years ago, but it tended to notch the wire and I disposed of it.

 

 

I just bought a similar one from amazon. It is self-adjusting and easy to use. Here is one review about it. http://www.whichsolderingstati...-soldering-projects/

What I find amazing about this thread is the OP asked specifically about tapping a bus wire WITHOUT cutting the wire, just removing a section of insulation.  Virtually all the responses are for solutions that require you to cut the wire!

That probably has to do with not reading the original post last. I did suspect that John wanted to tap into a wire and have done a lot of that by slicing the insulation sideways with a knife and bending the buss wire a bit to allow the insulation to bow away from the copper wire so that I can remove the rest of it. Then I wrap the end of the new wire around the buss wire and soldered.

I think the poster already does that and was really looking for a better way. I don't know of one. I don't like those taps the phone company used although they are way better than the cheap blue ones that you get with electrical accessories. And messy looking. If I have the room and it looks appropriate, I use terminal strips and jumpers on the strips. On motorcycles, there is little choice other than slicing, wrapping, and soldering...even though soldering wires where there is vibration is a bad choice.

I would use a suitcase wire connector to accomplish your goal. No stripping, no cutting, mo terminal blocks, no wire nuts. Just add a wire into it and squeeze it onto your buss wire.

RJR posted:

John, I know it's too late, but for my common bus I used bare #12 wire, looped around the layout and coming back to the transformer.  All trains and accessories connect into it.  Not having insulation makes it easy to connect drops.

 

Where I do have insulated wire, I use a stripper that grips the insulation and, when squeezed like a pliers, cuts the insulation and presses on it.  If not at the end of a wire, the insulation compresses and usually leaves enough room to twist the new wire around it.

 

It's an Ideal Stripmaster and it's excellent.  I had a similar one I had gotten from R-S many years ago, but it tended to notch the wire and I disposed of it.

 

 

Ideal is a perfect name in my opinion.  I used these at work for many years before moving to a desk job a few years ago.  I just bought one for home use recently.

Matt Makens posted:

I would use a suitcase wire connector to accomplish your goal. No stripping, no cutting, mo terminal blocks, no wire nuts. Just add a wire into it and squeeze it onto your buss wire.

 

 

Yes. Those are the things I don't like. A wiring scheme with a bunch of those looks awful. I know they work and have experienced little failures, just don't like seeing them.

I would use these a hundred times over before going thru the labor intensive PITA that it stripping and soldering to the center of an insulated wire while laying on my back under the table. Takes less than a minute to make your connection and you still have the same pig tailed look as you do when soldering. Plus you dont have to insulate the wire after soldering which also lacks a good and beneficent way get done.

Matt Makens posted:

I would use these a hundred times over before going thru the labor intensive PITA that it stripping and soldering to the center of an insulated wire while laying on my back under the table. Takes less than a minute to make your connection and you still have the same pig tailed look as you do when soldering. Plus you dont have to insulate the wire after soldering which also lacks a good and beneficent way get done.

Well under the table, I use terminal strips with jumper sections.

I use the strip and solder on motorcycles to add accessories, etc. I can usually wrap them into a harness and they disappear.

What I find amazing about this thread is the OP asked specifically about tapping a bus wire WITHOUT cutting the wire, just removing a section of insulation.  Virtually all the responses are for solutions that require you to cut the wire!

Your observation is correct, GRJ, but I have found that some strippers, like the stripmaster, can also be used without cutting the wire to pull back the insulation a tad to enable making a connection.  Effectiveness varies by insulation:  some insulation materials don't compress too well.

I was impressed by following the links to the Irwin stripper, which in turn led to youtube videos showing in can strip the outer casing from NM cable, and then strip all conductor ends in a single squeeze.  I see Lowes has them for $19.98, less 5% if you pay with a Lowes credit card.

Ha, as a kid I just used my teeth.  Still got 'em.  Must be good ones.

Under the table I use #12 gauge solid copper wire for the bus wiring.  There are twelve bus wires.  I used a pocket knife/exacto knife/single edge razor blade or what ever to skin or weaken the insulation in a circular motion about 1/4" apart on the desired wire.  I connect the two "circle" cuts with one straight cut.  I use my fingernail to pop the insulation off.  I wrap the "stranded" wire around the exposed copper area on the bus wire and solder.  If both wires are clean you wont need any flux other than what is in the core solder.  I only  use 63/37 solder.  I space the soldered areas an inch or two apart to avoid any conflicts or shorts.  The wires leaving the bus are grouped with white cable clamps periodically and proceed to the surface through a drilled hole and emerge through the astroturf grass on the topside side.  If you have hundreds to do, one of the other methods is probably easier.   Current capacity for 12 gauge wire is around 30 amps for 110v and in the neighborhood of 60 amps for 12v depending on whose chart you look at.   If a nick or scratch happens then I could derate down to say 15 to 30 amps per bus wire and still have plenty or power to run say more than a couple of engines and accessories.  YMMV.

I use terminal blocks and everything terminates and starts at a terminal block. I cant leave wire connections uninsulated that, it would drive me nuts plus all the time lying under the table in that most awkward position soldering over my head just isn't the least bit attractive in the job area.

#12 wire is only good for 20 amps

Ken M

Matt Makens posted:

I would use a suitcase wire connector to accomplish your goal. No stripping, no cutting, mo terminal blocks, no wire nuts. Just add a wire into it and squeeze it onto your buss wire.

 

 

I bought these (3M blue version)  but how the heck do you squeeze them for a secure hold?  I've used my hand and a pair of vice grips, no consistent luck!

     Did you ever think of heating the insulation with a lighter and pulling it off with a pair of needle nose pliers?  Choo Choo Kenny

I use big dog needle nose pliers

Ken M posted:

#12 wire is only good for 20 amps

Ken M

Yes... and no.  The exact type of wire and the usage can change that.

http://www.stayonline.com/refe...ircuit-ampacity.aspx

That's true but the NEC says max fuse or breaker for #12 is 20 amps