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I just started on a korber switch tower kit.  I cleaned all the tabs off and sanded them down to have smooth edges.  When I assembled it, the sides of the building do not seem to match up with each other leaving cracks where the brick/wood pattern should transition to on the corners.  I have heard of using filler products (suggestions for filler products would be great), but even if the crack is filled, the pattern is then gone.  How are others working through this?

 

I am having a hard time hand painting window sills on buildings.  I always see streaks from my brush strokes.  I tried painting a 2nd coat with the same marginal improvement in results.  I am using acrylics.  Is there a trick to this?  I assume there is a certain brush I should be using?  Recommendations?

 

I also just got my airbrush and regulator/filter hooked up today.  I would like to start learning to use this tool.  Why wouldn't I want to use acrylic paints (prefer due to the lack of fumes).  What is the best substance to clean the brush when done?  I have an Aztek Testor's brush.

 

Thanks

 

Mike

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You can use a filler for the crack.  I just use wood filler. you can then cut new grout lines but they often do not line up.  most kits come with down spouts (wire)  that you can place to run down the crack to cover it up.  For painting the windows I have found that painting the building the window color gives evenly painted windows.  then I just hand paint the brick. The brick paint will not be even but neither are the colors of real brick.  Then grout the groves with your favorite method.  With the Korber kits make sure you sand the back sides and ends to remove the paint that is on the walls from Korber.  if you do not you are just gluing to paint which will not give any strength.  when you build your models you will see all of the defects.  once you place them on the layout with other things you will not be focusing on the defects and see the whole building and details around it.  the defects will virtually disappear.

If the parts are warped, then these should be flattened before assembly.

Heating under a lamp bulb and then a flat metal plate with some weigh on top will work.

use some scrap to determine the amount of heat required,  be careful not to overheat.

 

The edges should be sanded evenly until they match up before assembly. Some times the edges must be squared off first.

 

A primer coat my help in the painting step.

Currently working on a Stone Mill Models, Sudbury Mill. It is a very good kit with accurate carved stones around the 2 fronts. Morter lines line up perfectly. I bought Charma Oil House a few years ago, then the company went dark, but in past 2 weeks has resurfaces. Mike Rebiero is the owner and takes pride in his mold accuracy. These are not inexpensive resin kits, but fairly priced.

Dave G.

If you are working with a resin plastic kit, you can re-shape any ill fitting parts just by running hot water over them and bending them to your desired fit.  It doesn't take much heat to soften resin plastic.   If it is injection molded plastic, it is a different story and will require a heat gun and there is a really fine line between enough heat and too much.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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