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I recently blew an incandescent can light (standard 65W) that is on a dimmable circuit.  Replaced it with a regular LED 65W replacement bulb (not dimmable), threw the switch, and no joy?  Since all my can lights are on the same dimmable circuit, do my LED replacements also have to be dimmable?

Chuck

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"...threw the switch, and no joy?"

Slang is a wonderful thing, except when attempting to trouble-shoot D.I.Y. electrical problems.

By "no joy" do you mean that, now, none of the lamps illuminate, or do you mean that the newly-installed non-dimmable LED does not illuminate, while the original tungsten lamps do work, or do you mean that the original tungsten lamps dim, but the non-dimmable LED does not, or that the original tungsten lamps stay at full illumination, but won't dim, or ...?

One should always expect unusual results when doing unusual experiments. Tell us what really happens, and we'll find a solution for you.

Standard dimmer switches usually are around 600 watts capacity.  Nine or Ten  65 watt incandescent lamps  exceeds the dimmer capacity.

There are also 3way dimmer switches, that would involve another switch in the circuit.  ?? Were the lights controlled from two, or more locations.??

I believe that you gents may be on to something. Without a definitive answer about the symptom, we can't precisely know what failed. But it is a fact, that I neglected to mention, that a tungsten filament, when it fails, can create a momentary short circuit within the lamp. That short can, and most often does, cause the triac in the dimmer to fail. Most times, the triac will fail in the ON mode (lights at full intensity); rarely, in the OPEN mode (no current to the load.)

Last edited by Arthur P. Bloom

Sorry that I wasn't specific enough.  The circuit with the slide dimmer switch (only one) has a total of 7 (all 65W) can lights, and only one blew.  When we replaced it with a new (non-dimmable) LED bulb, we just turned all 7 back on (we don't normally use the dimmer switch) and the LED bulb failed to light.  I guess we should try the new LED in a different can to see if it works there.  If so, that means the issue is probably with the can and I will call an electrician.  If not, the box holds 2 LEDs so I will try the other one to make sure it's not just one bad light.  We'll see what happens tomorrow.

Thanks to all who answered for the suggestions and ideas.

Chuck

One more suggestion is to ensure that the dimmer control is turned up.  I have a ceiling setup in which the LEDs will not light if the dimmer is set too low.  I can turn up the dimmer to make them light and then dim them down.

This is caused by using an old incandescent dimmer with LED's. The voltage output is not sensitive enough to energize the LED's at the low end of the dimmer. If it doesn't bother you, fine but that's why.
I've been an electrical contractor for 30+ years. The change to LED lighting has been great but it comes with some added costs that the layman isn't aware of.
Tell customer that they need a new $50 dimmer to make their new LED's work properly and get some dirty looks.

These new dimmers are rated for LED's and have a trim pot to adjust the low end dimming for proper operation.

As to the OP's issue. It can be a defective lamp. Try the other one and a different fixture before calling a contractor.

Bob

So, I took the non-dimmable to a different can on the circuit and put it in; turned on light switch, and all worked except for the original "bad" can.  So, I know the LED bulbs are good and I need an electrician to fix the can.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions.  Now, back to model railroading!!

Chuck

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