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The only time I have seen a suitcase connector failure is where someone had not matched the wire size to the connector they used. I have used Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDCs) [suitcase connectors] on 2 layouts using well over 300 of them and have yet to run into problems you mentioned.  Again, sized properly, they work great.  And the 3M brand are UL approved.

 

Side Rod

This always happens when someone mentions suitcase connectors. People get their panties in a knot about how bad they are, they dont work, they'll burn down your house.... etc etc etc REALLY GUYS? I think not! Many many people use them in this hobby without any troubles at all, including a DCS signal.

Check the pic below. All the blue plastic boxes are suitcase connectors. They are called such because after you squeeze the metal tab down to make the connection, there is a lid that closes over the tab to provide electrical insulation.

 

They work perfectly fine for model trains. I've never had one fail, never had a fire, and never had poor signal strength due to their use. The only trouble I've ever had was installing them when I used too big a wire size. (My bad!)

 

On the other hand, they are NOT weather proof or water proof, so don't use them outdoors. And I would never recommend or use them for 120v house wiring. I don't know if they meet code or not.

 

Chris

LVHR

Suitcase 1

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Don, this is what they look like before they're installed, more like a suitcase. They are great for tying feeders to a main bus. Blue for 12 gauge wire, red for 14 or 16 gauge. The metal blade slices through the insulation leaving the conductor strands intact. 

 

They can be a little tricky to install. I like regular pliers with long handles for good leverage.  If you don't get the blade to drive straight down, it can be difficult to close the cover.  

 

1059

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Originally Posted by Dominic Mazoch:

  What large size channel locks should I use?

If the jaws can be initially set parallel at about 3/4-1" you should be good to go.  I use a set about 10" long.  That was not by any comparative effort...they just happened to be handy in my basement/layout toolcart.  They've not been too big nor too small for suitcase connectors...or any other task I've put them to use on.

 

The micromark pliars sold especially for suitcase connectors have a linkage that keeps the jaws parallel through the complete closing squeeze.  That's ideal.  However, they're pricey.  I'm too thrifty to not try something less expensive...especially if it's already in my tools inventory. 

 

FWIW, always...

 

KD

I use channel locks set to the second opening. 

 

BTW, on the advice of a friend I've just recently bought some T-Tap Suitcase connectors.  Although the ones I bought are made by 3M, here’s a link to another brand of T-Tap connectors: http://www.delcity.net/store/T!tap-Connectors/p_9109

They appear to be easier to use than regular suitcase connectors although they require a spade connector on the wire coming in at 90 degrees.  Anyone use them?

 

Bill

Originally Posted by Kelly Johnson:

The best suitcase squasher I ever saw was a set of fishing pliars you see commonly around salt water that are 6-8" long and the jaws are made to stay parallel from closed to wide open and they open more than enough for suitcase connectors and are cheap enough to be just the thing.

 

I agree - at least if we are thinking of the same thing.  They aren't that big ir difficult to use - work just like any other pliers. I never associated these with salt water but the way their jaws open and close I use them for this and other applications where I don't want anything but a steady parallel pressure on the items being clamped.  I don't know what you call them but I;d bet dollars to Donuts Northern Tool has them.

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