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Tom,

I have no trade secrets when it comes to modeling. I purchase the heads along with a lot of other things from Plastruct. If you want to construct something like this, I will be happy to help you get a bill of materials together.

 

Thank you,

Dan,

Thank you. This particular model is not going on a train layout. The customer will be putting this model in a display case. This fellow worked at a refinery years ago and now is in the medical field.

Steve,

That is a nice piece of equipment you have there. It sure is a great eraser.

Alan Graziano

Just completing the front end of a refinery going to a customer in New Zealand (Alan and I are building structures for the same customer).  I need to paint the bases and some touch up piping.  The structures on the platform are all glued down and all structures will be glued to their bases once they are painted.

The crude starts off in the desalting tanks then travels to the crude oil furnace and on to the main distillation tower. Product is diverted from the main tower to two side strippers for further processing while the tops from the main tower go through a bunch of drums, condensers and filters. Bottom product from the main tower will go to other towers for further processing.

 Hundal Refinery 003

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Last edited by Joe Fauty
Clarence Siman posted:

SIRT, I would like to ask you, would baking soda be too abrasive to take paint off Postwar Locomotives?.

I'll leave it to the expert to directly answer your question. But, one excellent way to strip paint from almost anything is to soak it the purple-colored liquid degreaser that is sold by the gallon. (One brand is "Purple Power", but there are others). You can usually get it cheaply at Walmart.

It takes anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks, depending on the paint, but it has almost never failed me, and it is quite gentle. I suppose that there may be SOME plastic in the world that it will attack, so be careful and test first. But I have never had any issue with plastic damage, even when I have soaked delicate items for weeks.

Clarence, I don’t believe you would have a problem restoring your item using baking soda & compressor.

 I personally refrain from altering PW items. Non scale toy items to me are not worth the effort or meant to be changed. I like them in their current state as antiques. Age and chips are just fine considering what they are. Probably worth a little more untouched too.

 I have tried about 15 methods and chemicals through the years from Pine Sol to brake fluid. Nothing is efficient or reliable due to variations in paint applications. Besides it’s always a big mess. Time is an important factor to me. Every lean task must be accomplished quickly.

The blaster in my opinion is the only consistent way to quickly strip an item followed by a thin coat of auto body primer spray. Small items like removing a number, I use Mr. Clean Magic erasure rather that starting up the compressor.

Since the shells are smooth after blasting, abrasiveness is not a factor. Using baking soda will not cause items to be rough. Compressed air and a paint brush will provide for clean paint prep.

Thanks for the question and good luck in your choice.

 

 

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  • CNW RED
  • ej&e
  • new roads

Joining the SSS thread a little late this week.  As always, very nice work displayed so far!

A couple weeks ago I posted about re-lettering a 3-pack of Lionel PS-2 two-bay covered hoppers from their "as-delivered" PRR livery to Jersey Central.  

At the time of that post, I had one car stripped and re-lettered.  I have since completed the other two cars.  

Below are some photos taken at various stages of the project.  I may put together a "How-to" (or "How I did it") thread describing the entire project if/when I can find the time.  All in all, it was much easier than I would have guessed!

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One car, road # 821, has been weathered so far...

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Last edited by CNJ #1601

First, that 55 Chevy looks like most of them did in about 5 years when their one coat of enamel gave up.

Second, Joe, without divulging your pricing or profit, could you give me an indication of what the raw material costs are in a project like that? I remember seeing the 1:48 engineering model of the methane re-former project at Lyondell Petrochemical in 1984. It was a huge model used by the engineer/constructors to determine crane clearances and logistics. I've always loved big engineering models. I'm going to put a chemical plant on the layout. I'm thinking of just buying the Plastruct kit, but I could be persuaded to do something different.

Trainman2001 posted:

First, that 55 Chevy looks like most of them did in about 5 years when their one coat of enamel gave up.

Second, Joe, without divulging your pricing or profit, could you give me an indication of what the raw material costs are in a project like that? I remember seeing the 1:48 engineering model of the methane re-former project at Lyondell Petrochemical in 1984. It was a huge model used by the engineer/constructors to determine crane clearances and logistics. I've always loved big engineering models. I'm going to put a chemical plant on the layout. I'm thinking of just buying the Plastruct kit, but I could be persuaded to do something different.

I had quoted a price but the customer changed a lot of things so I need to add up the material cost from a list I was keeping. Once I do so I will post.

In addition to a petro-chemical plant (I believe Alan helped design it) Plastruct sells (kit 3008 - $200), they also sell a series of 1/32 scale kits that go with books they offer. These are kit 5002 ($280 - not sure why), 5005 ($90), and 5007 A through D ($39 each).

Last edited by Joe Fauty
Trainman2001 posted:

First, that 55 Chevy looks like most of them did in about 5 years when their one coat of enamel gave up.

Second, Joe, without divulging your pricing or profit, could you give me an indication of what the raw material costs are in a project like that? I remember seeing the 1:48 engineering model of the methane re-former project at Lyondell Petrochemical in 1984. It was a huge model used by the engineer/constructors to determine crane clearances and logistics. I've always loved big engineering models. I'm going to put a chemical plant on the layout. I'm thinking of just buying the Plastruct kit, but I could be persuaded to do something different.

Trainman:

Total bill of materials was $668 Plastruct retail. You should add about 10% for cutoffs. Though there may be some parts missing, to the best of my knowledge the list is: (qty is total units not pack size)

 





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B-6900240.5
C-12C-120.33
CL-8904324.5
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TP-6952039
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If you are looking for a custom design I would be glad to quote.

Joe

 

 

 

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